A member of another site sent me a Lee 6banger(125RN) for free since he did I use it anymore. Any tricks to these other than the usual cleaning, lubing?
A member of another site sent me a Lee 6banger(125RN) for free since he did I use it anymore. Any tricks to these other than the usual cleaning, lubing?
Last edited by Joel Chavez; 01-28-2021 at 02:00 PM.
In Christ,
JC
The one I had preferred to be run pretty hot so I preheated it on a hot-plate - other than that, can't think of anything out of the ordinary.
Sounds like you have 356-125-2R which is my favorite for 9mm. With my alloy and PC it comes out around 129-130gr and it shoots great. The only problem you might have is with guns that have short throat and no leade cut before rifling starts. In that case you will have to either seat those really deep or ream the chamber to make sure you have enough space for that fat bullet head. I feel like many manufacturers cut their chambers for FMJs only and soft lead needs little extra room which turns into a big problem in 9mm especially. Thats why there are many 9s that just wont shoot cast well until that chamber is reamed but hopefully that wont be your case.
No more than any Lee 6 cavity. Fill one cavity and drop, then fill two and repeat it, fill a third then repeat, on through until the sixth hole. Then you have ensured the mold is hot enough. Failure to do so has broken a lot of sprue cutters.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
Awesome info. I’m gonna make an attempt this weekend.
In Christ,
JC
I have that mold. It casts great. It was my first Lee 6 cavity mold. I just dip the corner of the mold, in the molten lead for 15-20 seconds, and you are ready to cast. Good bullets, almost immediately. A dab of alox stick lube on the sprue plate bolt, and the alignment pins of the blocks, periodically, while casting, will keep the mold happy.
My Beretta 92 gobbles them up as well as the HiPoint carbine, but my sons new Glock 45 chokes on them. Won't go into battery, and can't pull it back out. Just have to slam it home. I bought a 124 TL just for that reason, to see if that reduced ogive in front of the flat sides might alleviate this issue, then I read somewhere that design doesn't pattern worth a hoot past 15 yards. Haven't had the time to mold any from it yet.
I do also have SAECO #284 RN 124 gr mold that is basically the same pattern as the LEE TL but without the TL grooves, just a single lube groove. The ogive steps down a full .010 from the side flats, letting me seat out a bit farther.
That Lee mold, the 6 cavity, has to be ran hot! hot plate preheated, it should turn out acceptable casts immediately!!!!!! Good luck with it. 'cause when its up and running, you WILL make a pile of boolits in a short amount of time. Just my .02
I firmly believe that you should only get treated by how you act, not by who or what you are!!
Preheat mold on a hotplate run pot at about 750 establish a casting rhythm and drive on. I have the same item and it has produced many boollts
So after casting a few boolits with this mould I discovered some of the boolits were a bit rough around the nose. I realized the mould cavities had a few minor tool marks and such. So I did what any normal tinkerer would do.....I tinkered with it. I cut Qtips in half and used a “scratch remover” to polish the cavities. Boy did that help a bunch. I polished the cavities to a mirror like finish. Now my boolits are dropping from the mould with ease without having to “smoke” the mould. The boolits are smooth and concentric.
In Christ,
JC
Good tinkerin'
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |