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Thread: 80 gun safe

  1. #21
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    Lots of good input.

    A few reoccurring themes on this thread:
    1. 80 gun safes aren't 80 gun safes.
    2. At some point a vault with a vault door becomes a better option than a bigger safe.
    3. 2 safes may be better than 1 big safe.
    4. Electric locks? I think the jury is still out on those. Personally, I would opt for a high quality mechanical lock (dial) even if I had to pay more money to get that option.
    5. I once moved a safe from one house to another. I'll never do that again. The safe can convey with the house and a new safe can be obtained.

    A few points that were touched on in the thread that are worth expanding on.

    1. The safe MUST be secured so that it can't be tipped over. Don't rely on the weight of the safe to prevent its removal or toppling. The first part of just about any brute force attack is to get the safe on its back.
    2. Water can be a danger. A small solid pedestal to hold the safe off of a concrete floor will help prevent condensation in/on the safe. Plus a small pedestal will save you from damage in minor flooding situations. Just a couple of inches of elevation can be the difference between an annoying plumbing problem and thousands of dollars of damage.
    3. HIDE the safe. You can't steal what you cannot find.
    4. Maintain strict confidentiality of security details. It is a sad fact that theft often involves acquaintances or family members. Even if they don't directly steal the property, they can leak security details to those that will. Everyone has that; Uncle, Nephew, Cousin, distance acquaintance - that is a problem.
    Last edited by Petrol & Powder; 03-11-2021 at 08:18 AM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol & Powder View Post
    Lots of good input.

    A few reoccurring themes on this thread:
    1. 80 gun safes aren't 80 gun safes.
    2. At some point a vault with a vault door becomes a better option than a bigger safe.
    3. 2 safes may be better than 1 big safe.
    4. Electric locks? I think the jury is still out on those. Personally, I would opt for a high quality mechanical lock (dial) even if I had to pay more money to get that option.
    5. I once moved a safe from one house to another. I'll never do that again. The safe can convey with the house and a new safe can be obtained.

    A few points that were touched on in the thread that are worth expanding on.

    1. The safe MUST be secured so that it can't be tipped over. Don't rely of the weight of the safe to prevent its removal or toppling. The first part of just about any brute force attack is to get the safe on its back.
    2. Water can be a danger. A small solid pedestal to hold the safe off of a concrete floor will help prevent condensation in/on the safe. Plus a small pedestal will save you from damage in minor flooding situations. Just a couple of inches of elevation can be the difference between an annoying plumbing problem and thousands of dollars of damage.
    3. HIDE the safe. You can't steal what you cannot find.
    4. Maintain strict confidentiality of security details. It is a sad fact that theft often involves acquaintances or family members. Even if they don't directly steal the property, they can leak security details to those that will. Everyone has that; Uncle, Nephew, Cousin, distance acquaintance - that is a problem.
    Perfect response.
    Don Verna


  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol & Powder View Post
    Personally, I would opt for a high quality mechanical lock (dial) .
    I didn't want to say it before, but I don't care for electronic locks either.

    I worked 11 years in the shop for a high security safe company.
    On the big, real high end safes & vaults, like the 6,000 or more pound ones-- we wouldn't send them out with electronic locks.
    When it failed, and they will, there's about 8 or 9 folks in the country that can open them
    without destroying the several thousand dollar safe, and its real expensive to fly them out to do it.

    In our customer service dept, the phone never stops ringing.
    Usually its electronic locks that just need a new battery....... but not always.
    I asked one of the reps. one time how many calls they got for spin dial locks.
    He said he'd get two or three a month where one was ruined in a fire, flood, or they'd lost the combination.

    If ya go with a spin dial, they are $75-100 cheaper than a GOOD electronic lock like an AMSEC---
    Or at least it should be unless you're getting hosed.
    The one ya want is a Sergeant & Greenleaf, not the Chinese imitation that costs about $5.

    We'd get them installed at the factory to be sure they put the lock base plate in the right place.
    Then we replaced every single one with a new AMSEC electronic, or S&G spin dial.
    Barrels of those imitation S&G locks went to the scrap yard, but not all our competitors did that.

    It'll have a S&G logo on the dial ring and the lock body.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  4. #24
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    Is it possible to retrofit S&G lock onto a liberty safe?

    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    I didn't want to say it before, but I don't care for electronic locks either.

    I worked 11 years in the shop for a high security safe company.
    On the big, real high end safes & vaults, like the 6,000 or more pound ones-- we wouldn't send them out with electronic locks.
    When it failed, and they will, there's about 8 or 9 folks in the country that can open them
    without destroying the several thousand dollar safe, and its real expensive to fly them out to do it.

    In our customer service dept, the phone never stops ringing.
    Usually its electronic locks that just need a new battery....... but not always.
    I asked one of the reps. one time how many calls they got for spin dial locks.
    He said he'd get two or three a month where one was ruined in a fire, flood, or they'd lost the combination.

    If ya go with a spin dial, they are $75-100 cheaper than a GOOD electronic lock like an AMSEC---
    Or at least it should be unless you're getting hosed.
    The one ya want is a Sergeant & Greenleaf, not the Chinese imitation that costs about $5.

    We'd get them installed at the factory to be sure they put the lock base plate in the right place.
    Then we replaced every single one with a new AMSEC electronic, or S&G spin dial.
    Barrels of those imitation S&G locks went to the scrap yard, but not all our competitors did that.

    It'll have a S&G logo on the dial ring and the lock body.

  5. #25
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    This place can fix you up with anything you want.
    http://sportsmansteelsafes.com/

  6. #26
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    With the tools most of us own in our homes you can defeat any safe , with the cutting disks and a good angle grinder , with a plasma torch or a carbon arc rod and a welder it will go right through your door , hinges , insurance adjuster told me that he gets claims on safes all the time and the most common way they got in was through top.

    I have a pair of safes and they are for storage , I have no doubts that if a determined thief wanted in to them in would be done , had a friend who was up from Cal. one Christmas and when he went home his safe was gone , along with the rest of anything valuable , neighbors claimed they did not see anything .

    No one has ever stolen from me when I am gone , probably because they think there are other houses that they might not lose legs or life while inside of .

    Since the left thinks firearms are responsible for all the evil that people do why do they not prosecute gun thieves ? Oh wait all senseless acts of violence with firearms will be used to punish law abiding gun owners .

  7. #27
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    Great information above. Nothing is 100% thief proof. A safe will protect your stuff from the most common “smash & grab” thieves, keep them safe from kids and give you some fire protection. A combination of a good safe that’s out of sight and an alarm system will protect you from 90%+ of the common thieves.
    That said, who makes the best gun safe with a mechanical lock ?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    I didn't want to say it before, but I don't care for electronic locks either.

    I worked 11 years in the shop for a high security safe company.
    On the big, real high end safes & vaults, like the 6,000 or more pound ones-- we wouldn't send them out with electronic locks.
    When it failed, and they will, there's about 8 or 9 folks in the country that can open them
    without destroying the several thousand dollar safe, and its real expensive to fly them out to do it.

    In our customer service dept, the phone never stops ringing.
    Usually its electronic locks that just need a new battery....... but not always.
    I asked one of the reps. one time how many calls they got for spin dial locks.
    He said he'd get two or three a month where one was ruined in a fire, flood, or they'd lost the combination.

    If ya go with a spin dial, they are $75-100 cheaper than a GOOD electronic lock like an AMSEC---
    Or at least it should be unless you're getting hosed.
    The one ya want is a Sergeant & Greenleaf, not the Chinese imitation that costs about $5.

    We'd get them installed at the factory to be sure they put the lock base plate in the right place.
    Then we replaced every single one with a new AMSEC electronic, or S&G spin dial.
    Barrels of those imitation S&G locks went to the scrap yard, but not all our competitors did that.

    It'll have a S&G logo on the dial ring and the lock body.
    /\ Solid advice /\

    And, in the big picture, the lock is a small portion of the expense and a potentially huge source for a problem. So don't cut corners with a cheap lock.
    Last edited by Petrol & Powder; 01-25-2021 at 06:10 PM.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawlerbrook View Post
    That said, who makes the best gun safe with a mechanical lock ?

    For my money, it's Brown Safe, out of California. These are not Residential Security containers and priced accordingly. My first safe was a Liberty. Came standard with a S&G mechanical, electronic was an option. Converted it to electronic, after a few years. Mechanicals take too long to open, especially with aging eyes.

    Brown Safe makes safes, period. They make them for banks and the government. They even offer titanium. I purchased a no frills vault door. Weighs around 1700 pounds, with the fireproofing. I have redundant locks. Mechanical and electronic. I use the electronic, exclusively. Mechanical is there in case the electronic fails. Been in use since I had the house built in 2011, without issues. The Liberty, with the electronic, is still in use for the last twenty five years. Just battery changes.


    Winelover

  10. #30
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    I will add if you hide a safe or make a hidden room, please do not post pictures of it. There are ways to determine the location from a picture, or so I have been told. Plus people talk, especially if you pissed someone off or they may brag how smart you are. Just sayin.

  11. #31
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    “Loose lips sink ships” is old saying from WWII,applies here. Fewer people that know, better off.
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  12. #32
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    I wish I needed a gun safe that would hold 80 rifles , what a great problem

  13. #33
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    Sons won't let me buy two safes ( They move them). This safe will store my guns plus #2 son's guns and maybe a few of #1's guns. Think I have found a local dealer of safes. Probably more money than I planned on spending but also better safes.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duckiller View Post
    Sons won't let me buy two safes ( They move them). This safe will store my guns plus #2 son's guns and maybe a few of #1's guns. Think I have found a local dealer of safes. Probably more money than I planned on spending but also better safes.
    Which did you decide on?

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    I wish I needed a gun safe that would hold 80 rifles , what a great problem
    If you only had 40, I doubt an 80 gun safe would hold them.

    Slim
    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  16. #36
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	big-yellow-safe1-960x720.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	71.9 KB 
ID:	278133
    Superior Safe Co. has one that will hold your 80 guns...but it ain't cheap and you better have a TALL ceiling.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1I-Jack View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	big-yellow-safe1-960x720.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	71.9 KB 
ID:	278133
    Superior Safe Co. has one that will hold your 80 guns...but it ain't cheap and you better have a TALL ceiling.
    My wife sent me that picture!!! WOW!!!!

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  18. #38
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    Unless sportsmen steel safes are under New Ownership and Management, I wouldn't trust them with a piggyback.
    They hosed me 15yrs ago on a 60gun safe.

    The details are too much.
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

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  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrounge View Post
    I only wish I had that problem!
    My sentiments to a tee

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarrinvz24 View Post
    Is it possible to retrofit S&G lock onto a liberty safe?
    Yes. They all use the same 'foot print' or bolt pattern to mount the lock body, and the holes for the dial ring jive up on the outside.

    When safes come down the assembly line- they can put either kind of lock on it made by any of several companies.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

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