ADvertise hereReloading UKMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision
Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2RepackboxInline Fabrication

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 26

Thread: WTB WTT 7.65 argentine form / trim die

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Phat Man Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    North Eastern Oklahoma
    Posts
    422

    WTB WTT 7.65 argentine form / trim die

    The girlfriend has 2 rifles in this caliber and wants to shot them. Needing to make her some brass. Let me know .
    Thanks Michael

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,316
    Graf's: Prvi Partizan Brass 7.65x53 Argentine Mauser Unprimed Bag of 100 $58.99 (in stock)

    Don't know what your time is worth, but if it is worth much of anything you can't make the brass from .270 or .30-06 brass for $0.69 (shipping included) each. And, of course, the NNY brass has the proper headstamp.
    Ed

    CW3 USA (Ret)
    VFW Life
    NRA Benefactor
    TX State Rifle Assn Life
    SAF Life
    NY State Rifle and Pistol Assn Senior Member because I don't have to fight that fight in TX
    JPFO Member

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    2,735
    I made a few hundred from LC '06 brass a decade ago. Most is still working for me.

    Why not make it? Ya only likely need do it once
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my Utube page!!

    https://www.youtube.com/user/cwlongshot

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Phat Man Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    North Eastern Oklahoma
    Posts
    422
    Yeah , she scored some old 30-06 blanks. Thought it could be turned into 7.65 with a little bit of work. I've seen the die somewhere.

  5. #5
    Moderator & CBPAO


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    4,828
    I'd approach the use of .30-06 blank brass cautiously. It was said to be of 2nd quality, deemed insufficiently strong for regular loads but O.K. for blanks.

    DG

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Stewbaby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Pelahatchie, MS
    Posts
    210

    WTB WTT 7.65 argentine form / trim die

    I looked and looked for one this summer. Gave up and tried without...no issues. Just use your sizing die. Lube and size without the expander, then rough trim them, put them back thru with the expander, then trim to size. Don’t use the blank brass, it may not be up to pressure in quality. Resize true ‘06, 270, etc.


  7. #7
    Moderator & CBPAO


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    4,828
    Nice little chop saw, Stewbaby. I'm sure that would work.

    DG

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Western NC
    Posts
    2,842
    My longtime form die for 7.65 Arg. is the FL sizing die.

    I've been around long enough to have an old "file trim" die for it but cutting off the excess length normally isn't very demanding.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Phat Man Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    North Eastern Oklahoma
    Posts
    422
    Ok, so just chuck the blank brass and use 270 brass. I can't use 30-06 she has 2 of those rifles also. She keeps me busy sometimes trying to feed them .

  10. #10
    Boolit Master



    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    2,735
    Yes, Just use a GOOD LUBE like Imperial Size wax and your 7.65 Arg sizing die. I also find annealing helps allot with split necks.

    Good luck

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my Utube page!!

    https://www.youtube.com/user/cwlongshot

  11. #11
    Moderator & CBPAO


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    4,828
    Mike-- Yes, chuck the blank brass. There have been several threads on the .30-06 to 7.65mm conversion in the past, a couple of them very extensive. You can probably turn them up with a couple of "searches". Some good reading. I've got several 1891 Argentine rifles and converted several hundred rounds, and they work very well. I did use a trim die, but I think Stewbaby is right that one really isn't needed as once the brass is reformed all that remains is cutting the neck back to the correct length. I think some careful measuring, filing, and de-burring would do the job. Some claimed, in past threads, that the thickness of the neck of the reformed cases have to be reamed, but I never found it to be a problem.

    DG

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


    gmsharps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    667
    I've got a couple NOS 7.65 file trimmers.
    pm sent

    gmsharps

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy Phat Man Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    North Eastern Oklahoma
    Posts
    422
    Thanks Gmsharps. She's going to be happy now.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Phx Az
    Posts
    1,581
    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post
    I'd approach the use of .30-06 blank brass cautiously. It was said to be of 2nd quality, deemed insufficiently strong for regular loads but O.K. for blanks.

    DG
    Not trying to challenge you but I’ve formed hundreds of 765, 7.7, 7 and 8 X57 from US and Canadian 06 blanks. Never had one go bad. I started way back in the 70’s when the only source of brass was buying factory boxer primed ammo and saving the brass. Norma brand was the exception as they made military brass available but the prices were near ridiculous.

    I’ve heard and read from various sources over the years about being cautious loading blank brass but I never had problems once the brass left my loading bench. I did booger up plenty of brass while reforming. The most common problem was getting a wrinkle in the neck or shoulder area. As an advisory the 06 blank primers are corrosive. I de-primed the live corrosive primers very cautiously as the primers are crimped in. I never had a primer ignite on my loading bench but pushed them out very slowly. I occasionally had a stubborn primer and simply discarded the brass.

    I had better luck annealing the brass’ shoulder area after the initial fire forming. Seemed I had a lot less split necks that way.
    Last edited by azrednek; 01-24-2021 at 07:41 AM.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,316
    Kill live primers with a shot of penetrating oil (or regular) and don't worry about depriming cases. Water works but the primers need to be wet (not allowed to dry out) to be absolutely sure they won't ignite.
    Ed

    CW3 USA (Ret)
    VFW Life
    NRA Benefactor
    TX State Rifle Assn Life
    SAF Life
    NY State Rifle and Pistol Assn Senior Member because I don't have to fight that fight in TX
    JPFO Member

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub Pumpkin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Still in South Texas---about 100 miles north of Laredo.
    Posts
    34
    Gary; do you have another 7.65 file trimmer?/if so, how much? Interested, and if I buy, it can be shipped with the 280 AI dies I bought from you. Let me know, thank you. Baumann

  17. #17
    Moderator & CBPAO


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    4,828
    Quote Originally Posted by azrednek View Post
    Not trying to challenge you but I’ve formed hundreds of 765, 7.7, 7 and 8 X57 from US and Canadian 06 blanks. Never had one go bad. I started way back in the 70’s when the only source of brass was buying factory boxer primed ammo and saving the brass. Norma brand was the exception as they made military brass available but the prices were near ridiculous.

    I’ve heard and read from various sources over the years about being cautious loading blank brass but I never had problems once the brass left my loading bench. I did booger up plenty of brass while reforming. The most common problem was getting a wrinkle in the neck or shoulder area. As an advisory the 06 blank primers are corrosive. I de-primed the live corrosive primers very cautiously as the primers are crimped in. I never had a primer ignite on my loading bench but pushed them out very slowly. I occasionally had a stubborn primer and simply discarded the brass.

    I had better luck annealing the brass’ shoulder area after the initial fire forming. Seemed I had a lot less split necks that way.
    Hi azrednek-- No problem, I don't feel challenged. I'm here to learn, like most of us are. As you noted, the information about lesser quality brass being used for US Military .30-06 blanks has been stated and quoted for years. I think that there would have to be a basis for it, especially the WW II vintage production, as if you had a large batch of brass that didn't pass inspection for use in loaded ammo you probably wouldn't want to let it go to waste, especially if there was a need for training blanks. I've had a belt of about 500 of the blanks with the red paint in the top of the case for many years, but never did anything with it other than use it as décor in my shop. But your experience in this area exceeds mine, and I'm glad that you've successfully put yours to use. Now no one said anything about Canadian blank brass that I've ever heard of, so I can't say anything about that at all, but have heard that most foreign countries use the same high quality brass for their blanks as for their loaded ammo. Some of the foreign blanks have a severely crimped mouth to assist in feeding in automatic weapons, and I doubt if they'd prove of much use. Anyway, my conclusion would have to be that, based on your experience, obviously the US Military blank brass varies in quality. How one would make that determination without actually trying some is the question.

    About the .30-06 to 7.65mm conversion specifically, I always started the project by annealing. I'd stand the cases upright in a baking pan with water about half-way up the case, heat them with a propane torch until an orange red, and then immediately tip them over into the water using a short piece of welding rod. You can only heat up one or two at a time, because they lose heat rapidly. After they dried out I'd simply run them into the 7.65mm sizing die, trim them in the trim die, and de-burr them. I can't recall ever losing any cases at all. I'm thinking that you should probably do the annealing step before the sizing, or you said fireforming. Norma brass? Always too expensive for me.

    DG

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    7,063
    Check the neck thickness of your converted brass, it may or may not need thinning. When I did this ~thirty years ago I just used the Lyman full length sizing die, and cut the ridiculously long neck with a small tubing cutter before using a Lee case trimmer.

    Now I would use the Harbor Fright chop saw like Stewbaby illustrated.

    Robert

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy Phat Man Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    North Eastern Oklahoma
    Posts
    422
    I've bought a Hornady neck trimming tool to shave down the ones that are a bit thick . Thanks everyone for the great information . After making her brass she wants chicken coops.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master hiram's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Boynton Bch., FL
    Posts
    988
    I made mine from .308 win.
    Rich or poor, it's good to have money.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check