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Thread: Replacement for Dillon XL650/750?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Replacement for Dillon XL650/750?

    The reloading press that I've used most often in last few years is a Dillon XL650. It has served me well with no complaints but I would like to replace it with something more robust or more solidly built. I had a Dillon RL1000 at one time that felt nice to operate but changing calibers was cumbersome, a feature easily done on the XL650. The RL1000 was no longer supported by Dillon so I sold it. The Dillon RL1100 and Mark 7 seem to be more solidly built but changing calibers is again difficult. Are there any other presses to look at that might be a step up from the XL650/750 but make changing calibers as easy?

  2. #2
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    John Wayne's Avatar
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    "Are there any other presses to look at that might be a step up from the XL650/750 but make changing calibers as easy"?

    Nope!
    HOLLYWOOD Collector Left hawg 405#, right one 315#, had my elderly neighbors granddaughter treed and why I got the call. Both charged, one from 20' and one from 40'. Thanks to the good Lord and Samuel Colt I won. May God bless our Lawmen & Soldiers!

  3. #3
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    I'm attempting to comport these two statements and having trouble,:

    ".......more robust or more solidly built."
    &
    ".......changing calibers was cumbersome.."


    I would NOT describe the Dillon 550/650/750 presses as needing to be " More solidly built". In fact, I think they are overbuilt to start with. I'm not sure what additional strength you require in a progressive press.

    Then to make the search even more difficult, , you add ease of changing calibers to the requirements.

    I'm not sure you will find a progressive press that is easier to change caliber s than a 650/750 series AND has more strength than a 650 or 750.

    Short of going to a large turret press like a Redding T-7 that is NOT a true progressive press; I don't think you will find something that fits your criteria.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I agree with John .
    The more of the process that is automated the more you have to change and adjust when changing what you are loading. The best solution I have found is big piles of components so you can load enough of each cartridge that you don't need to setup for it again for a long time. Or a big bench with a press for each cartridge

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Wayne View Post
    "Are there any other presses to look at that might be a step up from the XL650/750 but make changing calibers as easy"?

    Nope!
    Correct answer at #2.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    " more robust or solidly built "
    It looks like this is not being understood.
    So here goes:
    - Lee Loadmastet, cast Aluminum frame.
    - RCBS ProChucker 5 or 7, cast Aluminum frame.
    - All Dillion models, cast Aluminum frame.
    - Hornady LNL, cast iron frame like on an RCBS Rockchucker.

    Does that help ?

  7. #7
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    Not really.
    The aluminum frame of a Dillon is more than strong enough. I don't know what it would take to distort a Dillon 550 or 650 frame but I'd be willing to bet something else would fail before the frame did.

    As for longevity, I have loaded tens of thousands of rounds on a 550 and have yet to wear it out.

    I don't think there's anything about a 550/650/750 that I would characterize as inherently weak or needing to be built more solidly.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Has anyone ever broken a Dillon 650/750? The Dillon presses are designed for mass reloading of ammo and some minor case deforming such as 223 to 300 blk. I've had a Dillon press of one type or another since the 450 and other than worn parts replacement never had a problem. Unless the OP is planning commercial levels of reloading Dillon or Hornandy is the best options. Can't imagine what a Dillon made of cast iron would weigh.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I have no problem with the aluminum frame of Dad’s Dillon 450 that he upgraded to a 550. What I do have a problem with on the 550 is the way the primer feed (and to a lesser degree the powder mechanism) loosen(s) up and get(s) out of adjustment too quickly. I also have a Star Progressive in 38 Spl only, and it strikes me as much more solid and trouble free. Of course the old Star’s price and availability make this a moot point for someone currently looking for a progressive press unless they have deep pockets and are willing to cast a wide net to search for a Star Universal and tooling.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  10. #10
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    The Mark 7 is a very well built press. Sold my older Dillon 1050 to invest in this press. Everything is solid. No cast parts, everything is machined perfectly. I weighed the cost against the new Dillon's and decided to invest in the Mark 7. The tool heads are much larger spreading things out a little more. Most of all if you want to fully automate in the future this press offers all the options, but again expensive. The ten stations allow for all the safety features to be added.

    Caliber changes from small to large was a learning experience just because how the entire priming system works. Changing calibers using the same primer size would take no longer than on a Dillon 1050. Changing primer size there is quit a bit involved. The entire upper primer feed system needs to be changed out. The right side of the press components where the primer assembly mounts needs to be removed starting with removing the press handle. After the covers are removed everything need to be removed including the swage assembly. Putting it all back in the correct order was also learned. Then after everything is assembled the primer seating depth needs to be readjusted again, everything changes. Take a lot of notes of what was changed and how much.

    Bottom line you do not want to change primer size to often. Once you figure it all out and what needs to be adjusted the next changeover will be a lot quicker. If I'm going to load several thousand rounds or more then I would do a changeover, not a problem.
    This press is an investment and is about the top of the line right now for loading presses.
    The reason I have two Dillon 650's, one setup for small primer, one setup for large primer.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    As mentioned in my original post I have no complaints about the XL650 but for those that have operated an RL 1000 and XL 650 should know what I meant by more solidly built. I also have a Star Universal and that too feels more solidly built but it's not an automatic press and caliber changes are far from easy. "Nope" is probably the answer to my question but thought it was worth asking.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by KAYDADOG View Post
    The Mark 7 is a very well built press. Sold my older Dillon 1050 to invest in this press. Everything is solid. No cast parts, everything is machined perfectly. I weighed the cost against the new Dillon's and decided to invest in the Mark 7. The tool heads are much larger spreading things out a little more. Most of all if you want to fully automate in the future this press offers all the options, but again expensive. The ten stations allow for all the safety features to be added.

    Caliber changes from small to large was a learning experience just because how the entire priming system works. Changing calibers using the same primer size would take no longer than on a Dillon 1050. Changing primer size there is quit a bit involved. The entire upper primer feed system needs to be changed out. The right side of the press components where the primer assembly mounts needs to be removed starting with removing the press handle. After the covers are removed everything need to be removed including the swage assembly. Putting it all back in the correct order was also learned. Then after everything is assembled the primer seating depth needs to be readjusted again, everything changes. Take a lot of notes of what was changed and how much.

    Bottom line you do not want to change primer size to often. Once you figure it all out and what needs to be adjusted the next changeover will be a lot quicker. If I'm going to load several thousand rounds or more then I would do a changeover, not a problem.
    This press is an investment and is about the top of the line right now for loading presses.
    The reason I have two Dillon 650's, one setup for small primer, one setup for large primer.
    I was all set to purchase a Mark 7 but after viewing a couple of video reviews concluded that changing calibers was a deal breaker. Not to take anything away from the press it was just not for me.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    if you want solid, get yourself a few original rock chuckers and do one step on each press. very simple and not a whole lot of stuff to change

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Has anyone ever broken a Dillon 650/750?
    There are people out there that can break an anvil with a rubber mallet.

    I have loaded many hundreds of thousands of rounds on aluminum frame presses, shot more than a 100k from firearms with aluminum receivers/frames.

    If it’s built correctly it will work.

    I have broken cast iron engine blocks making a lot less horsepower/torque that say an aluminum blocked top fuel engine makes, for example.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I dont see the cast aluminum frame as weak if it is properly designed with the needed ribs and supports. But a poorly designed cast iron frame will give and bow also. I would like a little more space between dies so all lock rings can be used. And a better spent primer bin.

    For some years Jenson loaded the issue palma ammo on 650s

  16. #16
    Boolit Master derek45's Avatar
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    I've never heard anyone call a 650 whimpy

    Better go take my temperature, I must have caught the Shanghai Shivers !

    .


    NRA LIFE Member

    USPSA/IPSC

  17. #17
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    I forgot to mention one option available, I call it The Super Deluxe, which is available in any machine. Just buy one machine for every caliber you shoot and you will never have to change tool heads or primer systems ever again.
    HOLLYWOOD Collector Left hawg 405#, right one 315#, had my elderly neighbors granddaughter treed and why I got the call. Both charged, one from 20' and one from 40'. Thanks to the good Lord and Samuel Colt I won. May God bless our Lawmen & Soldiers!

  18. #18
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    Kevin Rohrer's Avatar
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    ..."more robust and more solidly built"?

    The only ones I can think of are these, which are made of cast iron and tool steel:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA-Life, ARTCA, American Legion, & the South Cuyahoga Gun Club.

    Caveat Emptor: Do not trust Cavery Grips/American Gripz/Prestige Grips/Stealth Grips from Clayton, NC. He will rip you off.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Rohrer View Post
    ..."more robust and more solidly built"?

    The only ones I can think of are these, which are made of cast iron and tool steel:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	HollywoodCorner.jpg 
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    I have some of those, even an Automatic Metallic. Yes, that would be the gold standard for "robust and solidly built" but changing calibers on the Automatic isn't easy. I'm outfitting my Hollywood Senior Turret to load 45 ACP along with 12 gauge shotshells. Not exactly the production rate of an Xl 650 but will be fun.

  20. #20
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    there is only one step up from the 650/750 and thats a 1050 period end of story.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check