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Thread: Hornady powder measure questions.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
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    Nope didn't find the small drum setup.
    Sorry
    I HATE auto-correct

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  2. #22
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    Measured the drum on pro7/projector measure next to a LNL drum. The dia on the older measure is 1.741" and the LNL drum was 1.738". Close enough it might not be an issue if you wanted to use a LNL pistol stem and drum as you can't mix and match drums and stems between the two. The LNL stems have a hex shape that sticks outside of the drum that keeps the stem from being able to turn. The hex area is about .8" and keeps the drum from fully opening or closing. You likely could trim the nubs on the top and bottom down to 3/4" so the drum would fully open and close.

    The head of the LNL RIFLE stem and body in front of the hex is about .010" smaller in dia than the older pro version. The LNL rifle drum I tried rotated in the older pro measure except for the hex top and bottom nubs preventing it from fully rotating as mentioned. Here's a pic of the differences in the two models pistol metering stems.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I appreciate the responses. Moleman, thanks for that info. Walks, Thanks for the thought.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I tried some more powders today and the fine powders all bind. I'd guess someone at one time polished the rotor. The top and bottom edges of the holes are dished.

    Turns out a friend has this model. I'm going to ask him about inspecting his parts and trying the one not in use in my body, to determine if my body is damaged.

    Thanks everyone for the help.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    The top and bottom edges of the holes are dished.
    If the other side of the hole through the drum still has sharp edges, you can flip it around and drill & tap
    your own set screw in it back up at the front where it belongs to hold the measuring/metering body.

    The handle lever will switch over and work without any problems.

    Not knowing they normally 'chatter' a little, someone trying to 'fix' it,
    then ruining those edges may be why its 50 years old, and looks so new.....
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 01-21-2021 at 03:58 AM.
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  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    That's what I checked last night, the holes are rounded in both directions. I think my only hope is to find a new rotor.

    I appreciate the help thus far folks.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Thanks again for all the help here.

    I took the rotor (is drum or rotor correct?) and put a straight edge across and found the hole edge that had the least material missing, and used a punch to move material up, then used my diamond stone to cut it back. It worked much better after this. Still a little bindy but not like before. It appears the cylindrical part is dished similar to a butterfly yoyo, but not as exaggerated, and even with the cutting edge of the hole being close, the gap on the rest of it allows fine powder between the drum and body.

    So, I'm on the hunt for a new rotor, or I'll sell it for parts. Can anyone offer a value for the body minus the rotor and pistol metering stem?

  8. #28
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    Ive probably got 20 stems set up for the powder charges i use the most. Just pop one out and pop the other in and your good to go.

  9. #29
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    With IMR type stick powders of charges more than about 30 grains, it might work OK.
    Ya have to give them a little giggle at the top of the dump stroke anyway.
    I'd encourage doing that and weigh/trickle each charge.

    I looked at my new generation drum, and like I thought, its a hole bored straight through the side of a cylinder:
    It also has a real sharp edge on the business end. Yours probably 'did' too.

    Ya might also call Hornady and ask if they have those old style parts up on a top shelf some place.
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  10. #30
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    i dont use a powder drop for any stick powders. NONE of them do it well. I use either my pact dispensor or lyman dispensor for those powders.

  11. #31
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    Finally, I got up and went to get pictures of the drum. This is a new drum from the original Pacific measure. It has a 3/4" piston head so it's a rifle measure. I apologize for the poor quality pictures, apparently the auto focus was not cooperative this morning. In spite of that the edges of the drum are sharp. I am still scratching my head trying to figure out how Bazoo's measure had them rounded off.

    As Lloyd stated, none of the measure with this design handle stick powders gracefully. The Lyman 55 is better, but only with a tall, narrow drum setting. The honest, actual best for stick powder is the Belding & Mull.

    Enjoy your Saturday, it's going to snow in Minnesota, uff da

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  12. #32
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    Checked the hole on mine with a straight edge (side of dial caliper) and placed on the edge of the hole it would block out light. So after 3 decades of use it's still flat and level and sharp enough I wouldn't run my finger around the edge and not expect to get cut. I'm guessing someone took hand held sandpaper to to to "improve" it.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I appreciate the replies and the effort put forth to help me resolve this. Probably someone cleaned it up, ruined it, let it set on a shelf and rust 20 years before they discarded it.

    The sticker on the meter is all the way up to the shoulder. So not sure bout that discrepency.

    As a side note. My old style Lee perfect powder measures handle 3031 very well. Without biting and accurately. I charge right in the case with it. If I do have one that hangs up I rethrow that charge. I'd say I'd have to rethrow 4-5 out of a block of 50.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Well I got around to calling Hornady. No rotor for it, they said the new rotor wouldn't fit, though didn't give me details on size other than the new one was smaller.

    Guess this one will go on ebay for parts. Maybe, I don't know, might keep it for parts if I happen across another one, I like it. Maybe I could find one with a broken housing. Darn it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check