Titan ReloadingRotoMetals2Lee PrecisionMidSouth Shooters Supply
ADvertise hereRepackboxInline FabricationReloading UK

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24

Thread: How do you folks build strong shelving / cabinets for storing boolits?

  1. #1
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,026

    How do you folks build strong shelving / cabinets for storing boolits?

    I am thinking 1/2" plywood shelves and 2"x4" bracing to make things super strong, should that work? I need to move & once moved will be building a reloading room so for now I am planning and thinking...

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master


    jonp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Planet Reality
    Posts
    6,755
    I built the shelving in a closet for bullets and such out of 2x4's and left over OSB Sub Flooring like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/23-32-CAT-P...x-8/1000065715

    Less flex than plywood I think and very strong. If you attached the 2x4's directly to the wall studs on 3 sides unless it's a very large closet you won't get flex under any reasonable load. I ended up putting a cross piece in the front anyways because I always overbuild but it wasn't necessary I think.

    I bought a couple of these for the garage https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-4...nit/1002571984 They work well and show no flex but you can decide if the 250lb shelf rating is good enough for what you have in mind.
    "God can't save you from me"
    "But maybe he can save you from yourself"
    Faster, 2010

    "Damnation seize my soul if I take any quarter from you or give you any"
    Edward Teach

    "Hell is other people"
    Jean-Paul Sartre

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Rcmaveric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    2,098
    Thats more than adequate. I screwed 1x4 to the wall and made wrap around shelves in a walk in closet with .5 thick ply wood. I did have to go back and add supports in the middle of the shelves as the middle of my shelf bowed when storing lead or bullets. As I built wall mounted shelves enstead of a book case style shelf.

    I know only store lead on the ground. Remember lead and bullets are heavy. A cigar box full of lead is gonna weight about 20lbs or more. If your shelf is bug enough you may accidentally put more than 100lbs on it.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
    ~Theodore Roosevelt~

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    4,197
    I made a rack on my work bench by cutting a sheet of 5/8ths plywood to the size of the shelf unit. 3' x 4' or so. With finished 1 x 4's I made a rectangle perimeter frame and 1 x 4 shelves within. Each shelf was a few inches apart, but separated enough that I could stack two boxes high on each shelf. From the back, I screwed each shelf at about 6" intervals, along with the perimeter frame. After sanding and finishing, I used tap-cons to mount the unit into the block wall. Washers under the tap-con heads.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Went2kck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    overland park KS
    Posts
    218
    I use a couple of old style TV amuares, The kind with the doors in front. Then built shelves inside to store stuff. One has a turret type bottom and use to turn but dont any more. Need to replace the lazy susan bottom on it. this was an old gun box I built years ago. works for what I need to store.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master


    jonp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Planet Reality
    Posts
    6,755
    Take a look at this http://innovativepanel.com/wp-conten...Span-Table.pdf

    Go down to table 3 and you will see the span ratings for different thicknesses of plywood in lb/sqft. Pretty much the same thing for a shelf. I used a table like this to figure the floor joist width and subfloor for a weight rating on the bathroom which is what contractors will do. Of course as usual I overbuilt it using 2x10's where the load rating indicated 2x8's were more than adequate for the span.
    If you screw the 2x4's into the wall studs on the 3 sides, use a cross piece on the front and a center from front to back unless your piling lead bar after lead bar on it you should be fine.
    A standard 2x4 that is 10ft (2x4x10) has a point load of 400lbs. Decrease the length and the point load increases to a max of I think 1,000lbs. If your closet is, say, 4ft wide then the limiting factor should be the plywood. If you put a center support front to back then unless your putting over 500lbs on the shelf the limiting factor is the fasteners.

    Frankly, I think that a shelf in a closet using 1/2in plywood and 2x4's with one or two center supports depending on width will hold about what you want unless your putting your entire lead and bullet stash on one shelf.
    "God can't save you from me"
    "But maybe he can save you from yourself"
    Faster, 2010

    "Damnation seize my soul if I take any quarter from you or give you any"
    Edward Teach

    "Hell is other people"
    Jean-Paul Sartre

  7. #7
    Vendor Sponsor


    DougGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    just above Raleigh North Carolina
    Posts
    6,062
    Look in Craigslist. I find metal shelving in there quite often. The kind with the rivets and holes that snap together are really strong like 1500# per shelf and they take down for moving. Stores closing all the time you can pick up some good deals on multiple units.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? Shoot me a PM-> http://castboolits.gunloads.com/priv...=newpm&u=29606 Also on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Cylinderhone-756429174391912/

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    1,343
    CostCo has their HD shelving units on sale right now.

    $140 for an 8' four self unit that will hold 2000 lbs per shelf.
    NRA Benefactor.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    west central Illinois
    Posts
    6,907
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    I am thinking 1/2" plywood shelves and 2"x4" bracing to make things super strong, should that work? I need to move & once moved will be building a reloading room so for now I am planning and thinking...
    That is exactly what I did for my boolit storage shelves. Worked like a champ. Even after years of having hundreds of pounds on them, the shelves are still level and have not drooped.
    Mine are 2ft deep and 8ft long except for one I built to fit a shorter space. Assembled with deck screws.
    Shelves are nearly completely covered with containers of cast boolits.
    Only thing I would do differently is to make the shelves 16 inches deep instead of 2 ft. The lower shelves are difficult to see what is in the back row when it is dark outside. Also are a bit harder to lift a container off the back of the shelf than it used to be(Am I getting old?). The shelves are over 10 years old.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,242
    Your imagination and money are the only real limiting factors but I would be reluctant to store lead off the floor. It's not a function of shelf strength, the shelving can be made strong enough without problem, it would be the need lift the lead to an elevated location.

    As for making shelving, there are countless techniques to build strong shelves. A few things to keep in mind are: Any type of bracket that cantilevers the shelf from the wall will impart a twisting force to the bracket. (the load wants to rotate the bracket off the wall). So sometimes it's better to transmit that load directly to floor if you're dealing with a lot of weight.

    The deeper the shelf (distance from the wall) the more that twisting force will be. So keep the depth to a minimum if dealing with heavy loads. Plus the deeper the shelf, the more difficult it is to reach the back.

    Keep spans realistic. The longer the span the stiffer (heavier) the shelf needs to be.

    Reinforcing the forward edge of a shelf board can significantly strengthen the board without adding a lot of weight or expense. Gluing and screwing a 1"x2" to the front edge of a shelf board to form a lip (which can be flush on the upper surface or not) will dramatically increase the stiffness of that shelf without adding a lot of weight. The same thing can be accomplished with a piece of angle iron or aluminum.

    Plywood works best when it is supported around its entire perimeter. Plywood shelving that is thick enough to have a strong, unsupported forward edge is both heavy and expensive. Consider using solid boards with a reinforcing lip instead of going to a thicker piece of plywood.

    Plan your project before you build your project.

    Good luck

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


    BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Shamokin/Coal twp Pa.
    Posts
    1,327
    I use the hyper tech shelves from walmart. They are rated 600 lbs per shelf. Inexpensive and easy to assemble. And you can set the spacing where you want it.
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa. And Zerby rod and gun club.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    5,088
    I just sold 9k bullets and have over 20k left. None have ever been stored on shelving.

    I place 2x4's flat on the garage floor and stack boxes on them. Commercial bullets come in boxes that can be stacked 2-3 high. I also use the USPS small boxes that are free and tape them up (they hold about 1000 9mm/38 bullets 130 gr). Makes it easy to take an inventory too. I built my shelving so the bottom was clear for stacking stuff on the ground. Here is a picture showing buckets of 12 ga shells but easy enough to put down 2x4's and place boxes on them.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Shotgun Ammo Storage.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	59.8 KB 
ID:	275540
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Plate plinker's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,010
    I build mine just like dverna. I have about 80 linear feet four tiers high. I make my shelf spacing high enough for a milk crate. Two ammo cans high might be a good idea.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    6,599
    I just made some shelves for my ammo storage from concrete blocks and 2X10's to lay. I used 3 blocks spaced out evenly for the 8ft 2x10's. Two boards per layer fit an ammo can pretty well. 3 blocks with 2 boards on top, 3 more blocks and 2 more boards, ect. I think I have about $100 in my 3 layer shelving.

    Another option is to see if you have any material handling places near you and check for pallet racks. These are the heavy duty shelves that are in Lowes or Home Depot. They come in different depts from 12in to 48in and are incredibly strong. I think I paid $10 per end and $10 per shelf for the ones in my shop. They gave me the boards that go with them.
    Last edited by lightman; 01-18-2021 at 10:24 AM.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Boysee
    Posts
    511
    I used to build not-deep shelves out of 1x3s/ 7/16 OSB.
    Each shelf was OSB and had a 1x3 perimeter frame and the corner uprights were an "L" of a1x3 and 1x4.
    The shelves had 1/4x20 "t-nuts" in the curtain frame that lined up with hole in the up-rights.
    I could knock them down to a flat pile by removing the 1/4x20 corner bolts for moving, I moved a lot.

    Now that 7/16 OSB is $29 a sheet I build shallow shelves out of skid/pallet boards or 1x4 furring that are 1 box-of-500-bullets deep, from the floor up to what I can reach.
    Not wide enough to need bracing for the shelves, open backed, and anchored to the wall studs.

    .
    Last edited by Kenstone; 01-18-2021 at 01:28 AM.
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up the priming station and continue loading.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,874
    Steel and a MIG or TIG

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

    tankgunner59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    West Central Illinois
    Posts
    590
    I decided to use this kind of shelving. I have it mounted to the walls in my office/gun room.
    http://mobileimages.lowes.com/produc...9175000520.jpg

    The ones I have mounted will support more than 300 pounds, I tested them. Of course they're mounted to the wall studs.
    This is not the end. This not even the beginning of the end. But it is perhaps the end of the beginning! Winston Churchill, Nov. 1942

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Carmel, Ca
    Posts
    3,034
    I use Costco racks but for bullets/ammo I needed something smaller. 1 1/8 plywood sub floor was what I used for the shelves. I don't like OSB or particle board for anything.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master


    gmsharps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    665
    Here's a bullet rack I made from 2x6's. I know it's a bit of over kill but I had some scrap 2x6's and it works fine. The containers were from my sister in law that at one time in her business she used these nut containers.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2669-1.JPG 
Views:	17 
Size:	55.9 KB 
ID:	275593

    gmsharps

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    12,487
    ! built my shelving from 1 x pine lumber. 1 x 4 1 x 8 and 1 x 10. I made the frame from 1 x 10s glued and screwed together then cut braces the height I wanted between shelves. these made a spot for the shelf ends to rest on and were notched on the back side for a 1 px 2. . each shelf sets on 3 of these 1 each end and 1 centered. each shelf has a 1 x 2 along back edge glued and screwed to stiffen. Each shelf sits on 3 solid spacers with the rib down the back side. I considered a rib along the front also.when assembled they are very solid and secure can be finished by staining and oil or other means. shelves are screwed and glued in to spacers and thru the sides. It is a heavy weight wise set of shelves.

    I made mine in place, well close to it. Started by cutting up rights. then the shelf spacers. one of these went on the bottom of each upright glued and screwed in place. shelves were cut and the support rails glued on. set one shelf on the support screwed thru up right then down into the support and rail on each end. add 2 more supports glue and screw in add shelf continue to top. in the center is a row of supports to help stop sagging.

    When making shelves dont make them to deep as its hard to get to items at the back and heavy items at the back can be even harder to reach. If you want wider than 10" use 2 1 X 6 or 1 x 4 and 1 x 10.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check