New Caster. New Lee Bullet Mold Question.

[G. Freeman]

Hello Folks,

My Lee 6 cavity mould has arrived. I judiciously cleaned, inspected, reassembled, and gave a very small amount of 2-cycle oil on the appropriate spot.


When I first received the mould, everything looked super. However, after drying and reassembling the mold I noticed the movement of the sprue plate was tigher (d/t having all the lube removed). With a few openings/closings of the sprue plate, the edge of the sprue plate that contacts the hold down stud began to wear/gall/round off.

I went to Walmart to get my 2-cycle oil and applied to the proper places. The sprue plate moves smoothly now just like when I first received it. I have inspected the sprue pivot bolt. It is cinched down just right.

I have looked at the hold down stud and noticed it has a spring washer that puts downward force on the stud. This contact point is where the wear is occurring.

However, I'm still left with these wear marks on the sprue plate. Is this a normal and limiting thing?

Pic included. Appreciate your input. Thank in advance!

[Rcmaveric]

Aint gonna hurt a thing. Keep it lubed and it will last a long time.

I also recommend getting a tube of antiseize for the bottom of the sprue plate. It doesnt migrate as bad and last longer. It protects the top of the block better in my opinion. Henge bolts and guide pins dont matter. But I find it easier to use bee wax or old price of lube rolled thin. Then just lightly touch all the lube points once hot. I only need to reapply the antiseize. You will get a feel of the friction on the sprue plate and know when to reapply the antiseize.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[Mk42gunner]

My newest six cavity looks just like that after casting around 1200 wadcutters. It is a cosmetic issue so far, as long as the sprue plate closes flat to the top of the mold.

Robert

[Rich/WIS]

Normal wear, the plate is aluminum and the hold down bushing is steel, so the plate loses. A drop of 2 cycle oil on the inner surface of the bushing will keep it from binding as the plate pushes it up. I spray mold release on the bottom of the sprue plate to reduce any lead smearing, don't worry about excess, it will come off as you use it and reach a state of equilibrium it likes. I apply a tiny dab of copper antisieze under the sprue plate at the pivot pin to prevent galling, onleya tiny bit is needed. Also use a drop of 2 cycle oil to lube the hinge pin on the sprue cutting lever.

[Sam Sackett]

That's normal wear for a Lee mould. Keep it lubed up and it will last a long time.

Sam Sackett

[AlHunt]

Another vote for "mine do the same thing".

[Conditor22]

First of all, Welcome to cast Boolits

The sprue plate on any mold should move freely/easily. DON"T OVERTIGHTEN THEM. I can move the sprue plate on many of my bigger molds just by "flicking" the mold

on a mold given me == too tight and not enough lube



Lubed or not lubed all my 6X lee sprue plates wear there.

Get a needle tipped bottle for applying a tiny drop of oil to the sprue screw then work the sprue plate 10-15 times and wipe off any excess oil on the top of the mold and under the sprue plate.

I lube the mold bottom of sprue plate, top of the mold, and sprue plate screw (with the boolits still in the mold) then lightly dampen a q-tip and lightly lube the alignment pins and the hole they go in.

PS don't touch the handle on the sprue plate when casting, touching it can force the mold open a little.

[G. Freeman]

Thanks so much folks for the tips. I have already lubed the necessary areas and the mold works smoothly. Once my lead arrives, I shall start casting. Very excited indeed.

[Old School Big Bore]

I usually stone a little angle there right at the edge, so the plate can sort of ramp under the hold-down.
You know, the way it should have been done AT THE FACTORY...
Ed <><

[Winger Ed.]

Its just getting 'broken in'.

As good of care as you're taking, it should be good for a few tons to be run through it at least.

[jhunt1981]

On a new mold it shouldn't be an issue, but the sprue plates do bend fairly easily. If it is bent there will be more force applied at the hold down bolt, causing more wear on the sprue plate. Several of my used Lee molds came to me with slightly bent plates. Some careful bending/tapping with a hammer against a steel block and they're good to go.