Help with split buttstock on shotgun

[BK7saum]

I am repairing a franchi 48 AL 20 gauge shotgun. It has a broken firing pin, a few missing parts and a buttstock that is split at the wrist (3 split).

I have some west systems epoxy that I have used before to repair my Benelli SBE. It is thin enough to get in the thin cracks and to absorb into the wood. I plan to wax the surface, apply the epoxy, wrap in wax paper and wrap tightly over the wax paper with paracord. If it was a single split, I could or would clamp it, but feel that the wrap would be better for what I'm working with.

Is the west systems epoxy going to be sufficient? Or should I source something else to bond the would?

I really don't doubt that this would work just fine, just looking to see if there might be a better epoxy or repair method.

Thanks.

[cwtebay]

That's about right in my book! The paracord over waxed paper (several layers of waxed paper) is about the best if the split(s) can be brought into alignment axially that way and stay. I have done a few with axial splits that pinning two pieces together in alignment after epoxy and before waxed paper is best. I also use a release agent to the split prior to epoxy application (i.e. vaseline).

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[BK7saum]

Yes, the splits align correctly as they haven't broken off the stock completely. I can open one easily and will have to be careful not to break it off. the other will have to be opened/widened with a screwdriver. I plan to apply the epoxy deep into the crack with a hypodermic syringe.

It should be a fairly simple repair.

[Win94ae]

I used Gorilla Glue on that shotgun. I used Elmer's wood glue on my first shotgun that cracked 40 years ago, and it is still holding tight. I would think modern epoxy would work wonders.

Good luck!

[BK7saum]

Thanks. I need to verify that my epoxy resin and hardener are still good. They arent exaclty new, but i will mix a little bit and make sure it cures correctly before starting on the stock.

[cwtebay]

One amendment from my other comment: use an 18 gauge 1" needle, a luer LOCK 12cc syringe, heat the syringe under as hot water as you can stand to hold , heat the split area with a heat gun, then open the split with a plastic wedge or similar and S-L-O-W-L-Y inject the epoxy as deeply as possible.

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[country gent]

You might consider rubber surgical hose in place of the para cord. it can be wrapped tight with some stretch in it and maintain a better pressure. I have used a rubber tipped blow gun to push epoxy deep into cracks also. work into the crack as far as you can and then 15-20 psi with tip held snug against crack.

[BK7saum]

Thanks, I planned to use a leur lock syringe and needle. I probably wouldnt have used the heat, but it dies make the epoxy less viscous.

I just tested the epoxy in the syringe with a 22 gauge needle heated wirh hot water. The epoxy flows slowly but sufficiently for what I need.

Now to see if it will harden. The hardener has turned a little darker, but the resin and hardener have been stored sealed in mason mason jars.

We shall see. If it hardens, I think I am good to go.

Thank you very much for the recommendation of heating the epoxy and the stock. I dont have a heat gun, but will see the stock a couple of feet away from the propane stove and monitor it. Maybe I need to get a harbor freight heat gun. One would come in handy from time to time.

Brad

[country gent]

use a hair drier if you dont have a heat gun

[pietro]

.

FWIW, I always drill a few 1/8" holes into the raw wood on either side of the insides of the split so epoxy can flow in there to give a crosspin-like bracing to the repair.

I also make a little sawdust from the wood under the BP/buttpad to mix into the epoxy for a more invisible repair.

.

[BK7saum]

.

FWIW, I always drill a few 1/8" holes into the raw wood on either side of the insides of the split so epoxy can flow in there to give a crosspin-like bracing to the repair.

I also make a little sawdust from the wood under the BP/buttpad to mix into the epoxy for a more invisible repair.

.

If the wood was broken off, I would do that. Since the wood is still partially intact, I don't plan to break it apart. And I don't want to drill into the crack from the outside and make it more visible. The stock is a little rough and the repair should not be very visible if the repair goes as planned. Thanks for the suggestion, and I would definitely do that if the pieces were broken off.

[Texas by God]

Since the split is at the receiver and the gun is recoil operated, it may not hurt to bed the contact areas a bit between the rear edge of the receiver and the front face of the buttstock. I have done this on an AJ Aubrey sidelock and a few Ithaca 37s that crack there eventually. Just a thought. I used Acragls gel for that but your injectable formula might work there too.

[BK7saum]

One piece i ordered is the stock buffer, which is the metal spacer/reinforcement for the face of the buttstock. It didnt have one, but saw the part available when looking for friction rings, springs, etc. So I plan to bed the stock buffer once the cracks are epoxied and cured.

[ulav8r]

The Harbor Freight heat gun can easily scorch the wood. A hair drier would be better.

[BK7saum]

The Harbor Freight heat gun can easily scorch the wood. A hair drier would be better.

Thanks for the warning. I know they put out sone serious heat.

[porthos]

if you can glue 1 crack at a time; it might make things easier. i second the use of surgical tubing and bedding to the reciever afterwards

[cwtebay]

I second the moderate heat, but I definitely will stick to the paracord. Surgical tubing is great if you are used to buying it and working with it - but variability in the diameter and thickness and "stretchiness" is insanely variable. Consistent and firm pressure is needed.

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[pietro]

If the wood was broken off, I would do that.

Since the wood is still partially intact, I don't plan to break it apart.

nd I don't want to drill into the crack from the outside and make it more visible.

IME, since one end of a wood crack usually ends inside the metal inletting, an angled hole can be drilled from the inletting, across a portion of the crack.

.

[Jim22]

Bob Brownell, in his book 'Gunsmith Kinks', suggested using epoxy as well. Of course he suggested acraglass. But his kink was to get the wet epoxy in as deep as you can and then blast the epoxy into the break with compressed air. Makes a heck of a mess but it will get it all the way to the bottom. Then clamp with surgical tubing.

[KCSO]

I use Brownell's acra glass tinted to the stock finish and usually add a dowell or pin if the break is through the wrist After the first glue up is solid drill at an angle into the wrist from the action end and glue in a rod where it will n=miss any stock bolts or such.