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Thread: Tips for 1917 Assembly

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Tips for 1917 Assembly

    I've acquired all the parts for build a complete 1917 sporter from some actions I acquired in an estate lot. I got my hands on a Bishop stock in near new condition and an NOS Johnson Automatics barrel, still with the wax paper that needs to be scrubbed off it.

    Ballpark, what can I expect to pay for a gunsmith to mount the barrel and do what needs to be done for head spacing on the action? Anything to make sure I check into with the gunsmith if I go ahead with this?

    I know a sporterized Enfield isn't worth a whole lot in the long run and while I've stumbled into deals on this project, I'm unsure of if I want to commit to the assembly or bail and put those funds into a different project.

  2. #2
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    Head spacing the barrel properly is part of the installation. The gunsmith will need to have possession of the bolt also. How much? Varies widely with the gunsmith and location, but I'd say that $150 would be about right.

    DG

  3. #3
    Boolit Man
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    Back when I fooled with the Enfields (1980's) going rate to chamber and fit the barrel, cut to length and crown was $200. Can't pay the bills at $150 these days, I would not touch one for less than $300 now. Includes truing the front of the receiver ring and lapping the lugs. Countouring the rear receiver bridge cost more, there is a lot of machining time in doing this. Then there is the cock on opening kit, a new trigger assembly, maybe a 3 position type safety. $$ adds up real fast, by the time you are done you will be close to $2000 on the action and barreling, parts and labor.

    But my gun building days are a long time gone, turned in the FFL in the 1990's.

    Be sure your gun plumber has a Enfield truing arbor and knows how to use it.



    Arrg! A Winchester action with the dreaded hole in the bridge for the rear sight spring. Remington actions do not have this.

    Preference in actions: 1 Remington 2 Winchester 3 (at a last resort) Eddystone.

    Far cheaper to start with a modern action. Depending on the cartridge, I would go with a M70 Win, a Mark X Mauser or a CZ 550.

    Be sure the gun plumber has a current FFL, shop insurance, state business license and tax number and all necessary local conditional use permits for his shop.

  4. #4
    Boolit Man
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    Then there is the old school talk of Eddystone actions with a cracked receiver ring. Back in my gun days I avoided the Eddystones.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...even-have-here

    That's the link to the post that started this whole process. I was under the impression that they were pretty much ready to go, but I could very well be wrong. I'm at the cut bait and recoup my costs point, or push forward. $150-$300 isn't bad, but thousands will push me towards bailing on the project. I'd probably come out ahead on the parts, but I wouldn't mind the old 30.06 in the safe.

  6. #6
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    Is the Johnson Automatics barrel already threaded, cone breeched and chambered? If your action still has the rear sight and ears, an iron sighted rifle is not a bad thing. Also the cock on opening modification is unneeded, as is the mag box mods if you just want a nice shooter. Like Stockcarver said, full blown conversion to sporter is gonna cost.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Yes, the barrel is ready to go, short of a front sight. The actions can be seen in the thread linked above. No ears, straightened floor, straightened bolt handle, varying degrees of drilled/tapped. I'm not sure which I'd use, so that would be the next step.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Over the years I've built a number of rifles on the M-17 and P-14 actions except for one 45-70, which worked quite well considering the action length, the rest were all 375 H&H or 416 Rigby. For me to invest my time and money these actions are best used for some of the longer cartridges. Making up a 30-06 or similar caliber is putting a lot of energy and money into an OK but not great project. If you have one in 303 or 30-06 I'd advise leaving it that way.

    Just my $0.02 worth.
    BIG OR SMALL I LIKE THEM ALL, 577 TO 22 HORNET.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I like 1917 and P14 sporter, but if I were in your shoes I would sell the parts I have (maybe keep the stock for now) and buy one that has already been sported. Assuming you really want a sporter based on that action. These are usually fairly inexpensive and I bet you will be lots of $$ ahead.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Since the barrel is likely short chAmbered You’ll need a pull through reamer, go gauge , no go gauge, barrel vise w/bushings and an action wrench to do it yourself. You may luck up and it headspace and time perfectly or may need to shave the barrel shoulder.
    Expect 200 or so for the install with a pull through reamers
    If the smith has to use a lathe to make it time up or cut the chamber deeper then make it 300
    Might be better off selling what you have and taking the money your gonna spend in labor and buying a nice new rifle
    Unless you have your own tools or really want that specific rifle it’s not worth it
    NRA High Master XTC
    DR# 2125

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Akajun: I already have 2 30.06's and really no need for another, and I'm not particularly interested in a gun like this. Like I said, I just kind of stumbled into this project and started finding deals on parts.

    RustyReel: I'm leaning that. Just out of curiousity, why keep the stock?

    elk hunter: I'd considered doing a larger cartridge with it, but then the barrel fell into place.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeabeeMan View Post

    RustyReel: I'm leaning that. Just out of curiousity, why keep the stock?
    I would only keep the stock if you were interested in buying a 1917/P14 Enfield that had already been converted. Nice to have options and if you didn't like the one that came on the "new" rifle you could replace it with the stock you have. Since you are not really interested in the Enfield sporters anyway, sell it all! BTW those are some nice looking actions and I'm sure they would sell well. Good luck!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    I need to check into my local options for shipping an action, but they may show up on here at some point. I'll have to do some digging on prices, which I know we can't discuss as it's a potential violation of forum rules.

    Thanks for the help everybody, I'm think I'm going to bail on the project and put the funds elsewhere. There's a 68 Mustang in the garage that will always eat up spare funds!

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    If I remember correctly, Enfield receivers are 10 tpi, square thread.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master



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    The JA barrels are should be timed and indexed so it should be a direct screw on. That is the point of the index mark on the receiver and the barrel. Just line up the lines in inspect the headspace. No chambering should be required unless the receiver or the barrel is out of spec.

    If you true the front of the receiver the JA barrel may no longer index correctly.

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    Last edited by M-Tecs; 01-15-2021 at 04:44 PM.
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  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Unless you had something specific you wanted to build for yourself, I'd sell off the parts.

    The NOS Johnson Automatics bbl is actually quite a find. Used in the US arsenal rebuild programs for the 1917's, it would be of interest to many 1917 rifle owners who wish to keep some originality to their rifles but need to replace a bbl w/a bad bore.
    Original replacement bbl's for the 1917 US rifle are hard to find in good condition. A NOS is a real find.
    The closest thing now made will be a Criterion brand aftermarket bbl for the 1917. They cost around $230 plus shipping and are frequently out of stock now. They are not a genuine US Arsenal replacement bbl as the JA is/was.

    The actions have all be sporterized in some form. Not all bad as the ears having been taken down look well done and the trigger guard straightening as well. Both things are something that someone else would do or have done if building a sporter.
    Remington made actions are generally considered the best quality.

    I notice a 'short' extractor on one of the actions. It should extend back into the rear recv'r ring so it doesn't twist and jam as the bolt is turned. Not a big deal as 1917 extractors are a common part. The other 2 need extractors (?)
    The bolt handle ellimination of the dog leg style looks good from what I can see in the pics. Weld quality and workmanship is better judged close up of course.

    To put building a 30-06 sporter on one of these into perspective...I bought a Remington Model 30S Express just before the Covid thing started. Bought at a gunshow it sat on a dealers table at a large NYS gunshow for $300.
    The Rem 30S is the post WW1 version sporting rifle using the 1917 action as it's basis.
    I bought it for the offered price of $250. That's what I was told I could buy it for when I asked to look at the rifle.

    Aside from 4 target scope mt screw holes in it,,2 in the front ring and 2 in the bbl,,the rifle is about 90% and a perfect bore.
    I plugged those holes flush and rust blued over them to make them disappear.

    There's no way I could build that rifle for that price.
    The Lyman 48 rear sight is probably worth near what I paid for the rifle.

    Unless you are thinking of building some extra large caliber boomer on the 1917 action (and the 1914 Enfield would be a better choice if only for bolt face),,then I'd keep the best action and sell off the others and the NOS bbl to finance what you need to build the rifle you want.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Jim22's Avatar
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    I've had a couple of rifles based on the P17 action. The first one used the original five groove barrel but was rechambered to .30-06 Ackley Improved. The second was a war trophy my brother brought back from Viet Nam. The barrel was bad so I rebarreled it to .416 Remington. Had a devil of a time getting it to feed right. Don't have either rifle any longer.

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