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Thread: Let's Talk About Duel Wielding

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Let's Talk About Duel Wielding

    I have been casting for nearly 5 years now and can say I'm getting the hang of it.

    I'd like to explore casting with 2 molds simultaneously. But the precise sequence of steps is unclear to me. I've dabbled a bit but not sure I'm happy with the sequence.

    After mulling further, here is what I'm thinking, but your experiences would be valuable.

    Assuming preheated molds

    Pour into mold 1.
    Let sprue freeze and open sprue plate
    Set mold 1 down.

    Pour into mold 2
    Let sprue freeze and open sprue plate.
    Set mold 2 down.

    Dump bullets from 1
    Refill mold 1
    Cut sprues
    Set 1 down.

    Dump 2 and refill.

    Is that how you do it?
    "There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something."
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Yep that is pretty much how it goes just git into a rhythm.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hossfly View Post
    Yep that is pretty much how it goes just git into a rhythm.
    I do what you are doing, except I don't open the spruce cutter on the molds until I have filled the second leaving the spruce closed set it down pick up the first mold by this time it is ready to open the sprue cutter dump the boolits refill set it down and go to the second mold and repeat as fast as you can, just set a pace that suits you but don't take too long.

  4. #4
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    I do it the same way as 45-70 Chevroner. Once you get used to the rhythm you set it's pretty simple. Just remember as with all reloading, do it when and where you can avoid distractions. I always melt and cast in our backyard, and my family knows not to come out and interrupt me so I don't make a mistake. When I'm home alone I take my phone out with me, but I don't answer it, I get to a good stopping point and check and call back if necessary. When someone else is home I don't bring it out. Keep it safe.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    I've futzed with it a couple of times and the only way it makes sense is if you're filling the second mold while the sprue is freezing on the first one. Possibly it'd make sense if your molds are so hot you need that lag time between pours.

    Otherwise, why set the mold down once you've popped the sprue? It just creates more hand motions and takes time you'd spend filling the mold again. Running 2 molds gives you fewer cycles per minute, hour or however you want to measure it.

    To me, from a production standpoint, it seems less efficient than using mold 1 until you have all the bullets you want, then going to mold 2, which you've had warming on top of the pot.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I've done it much as 45-70 Chevroner does, but I also tend to think as AlHunt; I think I can make more good boolits by using one mold and keeping it in my left hand all the time.

    When everything is going just right, by the time I have either let go of the fill valve or set the ladle down, the sprue is ready to cut. Dump the boolits and refill the mold. Rinse and repeat until you need to add alloy or you have enough of that particular boolit.

    Robert

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I appreciate the input so far.

    Where I find that using two molds might increase production is when the molds get hot and sprues take time to freeze and bullets take longer to want to release. I see that lag time as potential to put another mold to use.

    I'm going to play with cadence some more and see what works or doesn't, or abandon the idea altogether.

    I should have mentioned above that I cast with a Pro Melt bottom pour.
    "There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something."
    ~Thorin Oakenshield

  8. #8
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    I use three Lee two cavity moulds in tandem. I fill one, set it down, fill the next one, set it down, fill the third, set it down. Left to right. I knock the sprue and dump the bullets from the first one, then refill it. And continue on until the pot is empty. I run the bottom pour pot at near max heat. Works for me. I reject the first two casts into the sprue pile till the moulds heat up- even if the bullets look good. Sometimes I only use two moulds, but the process is the same.

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  9. #9
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    When using 2 molds (or sometimes 3), I have them all heating on top of pot while it's coming up to temperature. Start with one and cast until bullets get too frosty or sprues are taking too long to harden. Put back on top of pot and start with next mold. One or two casts and it's up to speed. Cast until conditions are as described in using first mold, then on to #3 mold or back to mold #1. And by having a second pot heating while you are using the first, you can run through a lot of lead in a short period of time. Throw the sprues back into pot #1 along with more ingots and let it melt while emptying pot #2. Back and forth, from mold to mold and pot to pot.
    Last edited by curiousgeorge; 01-14-2021 at 09:12 PM. Reason: spelling

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    I used to run 2 4c 429421s like 45-70 Chevroner, the fact they were iron and held heat well helped.

    Now I run more aluminum and brass and don't let go of the mold til the pot's empty. I also run about 700F, 2 molds I ran 750F.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Casting with 2 moulds can be a big time saver at times. Big bullets 2 or more cavities. Filling one while the other is cooling.
    Things to do look for when setting up for this.

    1) pre heat moulds on top of the pot or hotplate I do top of pot.
    2) figure out yours placement handling so as little movement as possible is required. This makes it easier in you. Have handles of moulds and tapper where they can be reached
    easily with as little movement as possible.
    a) remember moulds will be handled with one hand tapper and ladles with the other.
    3) Set catch pad up in several separate layers. 5-6 hand bar towels works great in a paint roller try. When you get a pile of bullets pick up the 4 corners f the top towel and set aside, this fast and easy also saves dings on bullets dropping while hot and soft.
    4 keep a few ingots preheating to make filling pot quicker. If your using a hotplate set them on it and a cover let them warm to same temp as moulds, add ingots often. On a 20 lb pot 2-4 lbs come back up quick and maintain am even head pressure.
    5) either or here use 2 identical moulds so sorting isnt required. or 2 very dissimilar bullets to make sorting easier. You would be surprised how close a 40 cal 400 grn and a 500 grn 45 look in a pile.

    Here is my basic cadence for 360-550 grn bullets in 2 cavity moulds.

    Fill pot and fire up burner. set moulds on warming plate. When pot starts to show molten around edges turn down to temp setting. And bring up to temp. ( my casting pot is 120 lbs and gas fired, takes about 15 mins to get to temp).

    Flux Twice with wax and sawdust. Warm ladle up in pot.

    While pot is heating up I set up everything I may need paint roller tray, small dead blow mallet ( my mould tapper ). get the PPE on that still needs to go on.

    I then make a couple pours thru the ladle back into the pot. If it seems sluggish I put a little wax on it work it around and a couple more pours.

    Now pick up mould 1 and fill both cavities pouring as big a sprue as possible or over pouring

    Sit down on plate

    Pickk up and fill mould 2. and set down.

    Pick up 1 and tapper cut sprues over the sprue pan. ( I dont add sprues back until I flux or am done)

    Fill 1 as above and repeat this

    I throw the first 8-10 drops in the sprue pan. Just on general principle.

    Cast until the top towel is has a layer where bullets arnt hitting and gently push down to bottom with the flux spoon or tapper. You dont want these still "soft bullets hitting each other.

    When the towel gets full pick up by the four corners and set on floor or stand out of the way. This and adding ingots should be your biggest movements.

    My moulds all have vented sprue plates so I use the over pour method, I hang the mould over pot rim and pour a full ladle letting excess run back into pot. This keeps the base sprue hot and molten longer helping fill out and off gassing. On my sprues there is a definite hollow where allow pulled in cooling.

    Ill cast for 4-5 hours using 2 moulds together and 4 total. Ill switch at some point depending on what I need. Ill end up with 500-600 bullets all with in .5 grn after sorting the few visuals out.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    You are wasting time by waiting for the 1st sprue to harden, and then cutting the sprue.
    Setting down the mold then is just added motion, wasted motion.
    Fill 1st mold, set it down.
    Fill 2nd mold, set it down.
    Pick up 1st mold, cut sprue and dump bullets. Refill 1st mold, set it down.
    Pick up 2nd mold, cut sprue and dump bullets. Refill 2nd mold, set it down.

    Rinse, repeat
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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    If it's taking so long for the sprue to harden that you have time to work a second mold I would be scared to release the pressure on the handles setting it down. That would upset the bullet as it's hardening and lead to variation in diameter etc.

    Was casting this afternoon at 800° getting rid of some slightly contaminated alloy doing little 25-20 bullets. Even at that temperature by the time I let go the valve to pickup the rapper the sprues were hard. Same for every mold I've used between 55gr and 550gr.

    Really have trouble visualizing a way that using 2 molds would increase productivity and not affect the quality.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    I have had the best results using two molds in the Lee flavor. The bigger NOE molds mess up my tempo by holding hear longer.

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Country Gent, thank you for the detailed explanation of the process. That was very understandable and a good read.

    Walks, I think you're right about additional steps. What I haven't sorted in my mind is timing. If I set mold down and work on the second, I think about the nub that might be formed on the base if I didn't cut the sprue in time. There is that sweet spot that I can visualize between too soon and too late. It is a narrow moment of time. But I'm not sure if I'm quick enough to cut block 2 sprues, dump and refill before the sprue on block 1 has frozen and cut with a nub. That was my experience when dabbling prior. Might need more heat in the sprue plate, bigger puddle, hotter melt or a combo.

    Things to ponder.
    "There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something."
    ~Thorin Oakenshield

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    What I did for two identical molds, looking to increase production, was to think that in the time I took to completely cycle one mold by itself I would need to find to do everything to cycle the second mold. If there wasn't enough time for everything I'd have to lengthen the cycle, and would also have to adjust sprue puddle size, time from pour to sprue cutting, or other factors to maintain mold temp.

    It worked, but I've mostly gone back to one eight cavity mold with which, using a feeder pot over my bottom pour, I can produce about 2500 keepers in a three hour session.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    What I did for two identical molds, looking to increase production, was to think that in the time I took to completely cycle one mold by itself I would need to find to do everything to cycle the second mold. If there wasn't enough time for everything I'd have to lengthen the cycle, and would also have to adjust sprue puddle size, time from pour to sprue cutting, or other factors to maintain mold temp.

    It worked, but I've mostly gone back to one eight cavity mold with which, using a feeder pot over my bottom pour, I can produce about 2500 keepers in a three hour session.
    That's similar to what I've found. With a 6 cavity mold, I can produce 500 to 600 bullets an hour at a reasonably leisurely pace. 2 or 3 hours at the casting pot is quite enough for me.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by AlHunt View Post
    That's similar to what I've found. With a 6 cavity mold, I can produce 500 to 600 bullets an hour at a reasonably leisurely pace. 2 or 3 hours at the casting pot is quite enough for me.
    I agree. 3 hours is about max for me.

    I know guys that tell me about 10-12 hour casting sessions, and just shake my head. Patience like that isn't my strong suit.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    I do it like 45-70 Chevroner. I run 2 6 cavity lee 358-125-RF molds. They are preheated on a hotplate. Lead ingots are also preheated to near melting. If my cadence is broken, the molds go back on the hotplate. I can cast about 900 per hour. After casting about 2,000 boolits, my pot will still be full of lead. If you keep the pot full there is only about a 15 deg drop in temp when you add a pound of lead.
    There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism—by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide. Ayn Rand

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlHunt View Post
    I've futzed with it a couple of times and the only way it makes sense is if you're filling the second mold while the sprue is freezing on the first one. Possibly it'd make sense if your molds are so hot you need that lag time between pours.

    Otherwise, why set the mold down once you've popped the sprue? It just creates more hand motions and takes time you'd spend filling the mold again. Running 2 molds gives you fewer cycles per minute, hour or however you want to measure it.

    To me, from a production standpoint, it seems less efficient than using mold 1 until you have all the bullets you want, then going to mold 2, which you've had warming on top of the pot.
    I agree. I don't see any advantage to using two molds at once, at least from a production standpoint. It seems to me that you can accomplish a higher volume using one mold at a time.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check