Lee PrecisionWidenersInline FabricationRotoMetals2
Titan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyLoad DataRepackbox
Reloading Everything Snyders Jerky
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: Thinking About A New Pot

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Carmel, Ca
    Posts
    4,121
    I have a PM1 and a PM2 and I use the PM2.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  2. #22
    May Liberty Increase!
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    In the Hills of Tennessee
    Posts
    361
    I've got a Magma Master Pot. Its the only pot I've ever owned, so I can't compare it to anything.

    I'm of the mindset that I'm too poor to own cheap tools. I can't afford to keep replacing them. I also understand that good tools make work easier. I tend to do a lot of research before making a purchase. I read a lot of posts here and, at the time, the majority of people were pushing the RCBS bottom pour pots. But, that was because few had the Master Pot. The guys that had Master Pots were very consistent in their praise for the unit. I acknowledge that there is a tendency, particularly on internet forums, to praise our own choices. However, it is a rare item that you can't find one bad review on. I have never seen a bad review of a Master Pot.

    When guys acknowledged that the Master Pots do drip occasionally, they were descended on by the LEE fanboys and berated that their fancy pot was no better than a LEE. That's going back to promoting what we have as the best instead of looking at the facts. Yes, a Master Pot will drip....when you let crud get into your alloy and end up with a piece of grit holding the plunger from fully seating. Its an operator problem, not an inherent design issue. But, the worst drip I've had has been a couple drips per minute and it subsides with use (getting the grit out). I've never worried about the pot dumping its contents.

    The Master Pot comes with a mould guide; but I ended up taking mine off and arranging another system because it was designed to work with 2 cavity moulds and interfered with MP HP moulds with the pins sticking out the side and didn't allow enough room for the length of the 4+ cavity moulds.

    The Master Pot melts 40 lbs of lead in what seems to me to be a short amount of time. I plug the pot in, plug the hot plate in, fill up and light two kerosene heaters, turn on the oven, and by the time the moulds are up to temperature, so is the pot. It also recovers quickly from a refill.

    I have used an external PID on the Master Pot. It really isn't necessary. Mine ended up on the oven and I haven't felt the need to buy another. The thermostat works well enough for what I do. That said, the temperature will increase by about 50 degrees if the pot is allowed to drop below 1/3 full. I'm sure the Magma PID would integrate nicely, but it isn't worth the money to me.

    I've had one opportunity to interact with Magma after the sale regarding an issue. I'm not sure what the reason was, but after we moved from GA to TN, the Master Pot would top out at 715 degrees F. I called, explained the issue, got put through to an engineer, and had an answer in minutes. It required me to adjust a screw in the thermostat. It was nice to get someone who knew exactly what to do.

    If there is a down side to the Master Pot, its that it is an unequal workout on the left side of your body. My left trapezoidal muscle is noticeably larger than the right. The operating rod for the pot is on the right side, forcing me to use my left for the mould all the time. MP brass moulds are beautiful and work great, but they are not light. Thus, the left arm and shoulder get more workout. (You'd think the right side would catch up from all the press work, but no.)

    I do wear gloves while casting. The operating handle on the Master Pot is all steel and gets very warm, warm enough I don't want to do it bare handed.

    I only have the single nozzle on mine, but Magma does sell a double nozzle for the Master Pot. I've got all I can handle keeping one nozzle and cavity lined up at the time, though.

    It is a fair bit of money to buy a Master Pot, but it is not overpriced in my opinion.

    Overkill is highly underrated.
    WANTED: CH AutoChamp Mark IV, V, or Va - PM me if you've got one you'd like to part with.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
    zarrinvz24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Heart of the Lowcountry, SC
    Posts
    454
    I've got a newer Lyman MAG-25 and I love it. I've had it about 18 months and there have been no issues at all.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Murphy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Idabel, Oklahoma
    Posts
    1,345
    I own several LEE pots, 10 & 20 pound bottom pour style. They've served me well over the decades. Of course the infamous drip is something one learns to live with. I haven't minded it all that bad. Then one day I found myself wanting to upgrade. I decided to go with the RCBS Pro Melt. I've not regretted it.

    The Magma Master Caster pot is a dandy as well. I owned one for several years that fed my Master Caster. I decided to go with a 20 pound pot instead. Times change, and so does ones need. These days while I cast from my Pro Melt, I toss my sprues into one of my LEE pots and let them melt, less down down between pot refills.

    Murphy
    If I should depart this life while defending those who cannot defend themselves, then I have died the most honorable of deaths. Marc R. Murphy '2006'.

  5. #25
    May Liberty Increase!
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    In the Hills of Tennessee
    Posts
    361
    I looked at the Master Pot again tonight and realized I was wrong. It is possible to change the side the operating handle is on.
    WANTED: CH AutoChamp Mark IV, V, or Va - PM me if you've got one you'd like to part with.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check