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Thread: Thinking About A New Pot

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Thinking About A New Pot

    I’m thinking of upgrading to better casting pot. My Lee bottom pour has served me well, but maybe life could be better with a more, shall we say advanced pot.

    What are my options and in what price ranges are they? I don’t want anything automated, just something that works better and hopefully with a built in PID. What advantages and improvements can I expect? Anything to stay away from?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    I am very happy with the RCBS PID controlled unit and I really like the RCBS Pro Melt bottom pour. There was a company in LA that made after market parts for these like covers for them upgraded linkage which made my Pro Melt much easier and consistent.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Bohannon View Post
    I am very happy with the RCBS PID controlled unit and I really like the RCBS Pro Melt bottom pour. There was a company in LA that made after market parts for these like covers for them upgraded linkage which made my Pro Melt much easier and consistent.
    Are these two different models you are talking about or the same one?

  4. #4
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    If you have the money to spend, I'd go with a Master Pot.
    https://www.magmaengineering.com/masterpot/

    I probably would have ...and wish I would have...back when I started casting, if I knew then, what I know now. But I now have two Lee 4-20 pots and a portable PID, and that serves me well enough.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  5. #5
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    The Magma pot is listed for $600. Then there is digital controller for another $250. Do I have to get that to have it PID controlled?

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    These upper shelf pots, do the drip less than the Lee pots?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    The Magma pot is listed for $600. Then there is digital controller for another $250. Do I have to get that to have it PID controlled?
    I would assume so...but honestly, I haven't looked into it.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    My older ProMelt pot drips much less than a buddies 10# Lee pot. Actually it doesn't drip at all.

  9. #9
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    Jon_B
    What do you see as advantages in the Magma pot over the RCBS pro melt or the Lyman Mag pot, besides the capacity and therefore higher power heating element?

  10. #10
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    In reality, unless convinced otherwise, probably in the price range of the RCBS and Lyman pots. How do they compare. Is there a third brand in the similar price range?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    Jon_B
    What do you see as advantages in the Magma pot over the RCBS pro melt or the Lyman Mag pot, besides the capacity and therefore higher power heating element?
    That is a good question. I haven't used any of them, so I can only assume the build quality is better and more heavy duty, than the Lee. I have plans to rebuild one of my Lee 4-20 and have the parts I ordered from Lee a couple years ago. The actual pot part, that is exposed to molten Lead, is very thin, the spout seems small/light duty. All the linkage/actuator arms and such seem light duty compared to the images of the other brands. Now with that said, the Lee has worked well for me ...So thin and light duty parts seem to get the job done, and may last 20+ years. The other brands look much more robust and will likely last a couple lifetimes...and then maybe your grandchild will rebuild it and use it for a third lifetime
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  12. #12
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    Thinking About A New Pot

    I did the same research a few years ago.

    I ended up picking up a used ProMelt 1 to replace my Lee 4-20 and it was a world of difference. Knowing what I know now I wouldn’t have ever bought the 4-20 and just gone straight to the PM1 when they were available. I run mine with a PId bought from a member (OBIII?) on this forum and it’s nice cause I can move it from pot to pot and some actually use their PIDs with their Pc oven as well.

    Sadly the PM1 is no longer in production but good conditioned used ones can be found from time to time on here and fleabay. Never heard of anyone disliking this model.

    The PM2 has had mixed reviews due to the built in PID. Because the PiD is built into the housing with the furnace it gets hot and has to have a fan blowing internally to stay cool. Because of this there is a powered up cool down procedure that takes a while when you’re done casting where I prefer to just unplug and walk away. Those who have good reviews love them though and the bad reviews sound like they just neglected proper cool down and fried their Internal PiD. Last I knew PM2s were also out of production due to manufacturing issues assumed to be Covid related (Chinese parts?) but used ones pop up from time to time.

    Read some on the Lyman Mag25 PID unit and it had similar reviews and concerns to the PM2.

    Magma melters are creme de la creme machines that carry the price tag to match but likely you’ll get amazing service out of them. Magma is a great company to deal with and they stand behind their stuff. As with most things, you get what you pay for and with them your getting a lot of value and American made.

    Personal recommendation is wait till you can find a good PM1 for a decent price and upgrade then. In the mean time you can get an external PID and use with your Lee till you can upgrade and then just move the probe over and keep going. Hatch makes good ones from what I understand and he still offers them last I looked.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Targa's Avatar
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    I was looking very hard at this Pro Melt 2...https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018681680

  14. #14
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    Now I understand better. The PM1 didn’t have the built in PID. One of the reasons I am thinking of up grading is to get PID controlled temperatures. Plus if I continue with my Lee 4-20, I should probably overhaul it. It seems to drip more and need adjustments more than before.

    Does anyone have advice on the Lyman Magma? It looks like the mold support is only suitable for their molds and would need to be modified for Lee molds. They tend to be a little more expensive for basically the same thing as the PM2. Is there any good reason for that?

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I just looked at the Lyman mag 25 on their website. It says it can be used with Lee molds. Have they modified it? According to some youtube videos, it has to be modified to use Lee and NOE molds.

  16. #16
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    I have a digital timer on my Pro-Melt 2. I just push the 2 hour button and walk away. Two hours later it shuts off.

    I have both a PM1 and a PM2. I almost bought a second PM2 this last time Midway had them in stock but decided to leave them to someone who probably really needed it.
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  17. #17
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    So it really has to run a long time after you stop casting? Two hours? Probably the amount of lead left makes a difference. When you are done, how do you turn off the heating element? Turn down the temperature setting? Does the fan ever turn off on its own after it cools down?

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    I’m thinking of upgrading to better casting pot. My Lee bottom pour has served me well, but maybe life could be better with a more, shall we say advanced pot.

    What are my options and in what price ranges are they? I don’t want anything automated, just something that works better and hopefully with a built in PID. What advantages and improvements can I expect? Anything to stay away from?

    Thanks
    I have a master caster converted to master pot that I like very well. I’ve cast about 3500 pounds of wheel weight ingots so far. You can get them from Magma Engineering with a PID. I’m sure they cost more than RCBS pot but have a 40 pound capacity. Check them out before you buy anything else. Harles

  19. #19
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    I have three casting pots. The basic Lee, the Lyman Mag 20 bottom pour and one of the last of the RCBS original Pro Melts. The RCBS is by far the best of the three. If you can find a used one, you'll be happy with it. Gp

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    So it really has to run a long time after you stop casting? Two hours? Probably the amount of lead left makes a difference. When you are done, how do you turn off the heating element? Turn down the temperature setting? Does the fan ever turn off on its own after it cools down?
    You need set to PID to 0, that stops the heating elements. Cool off time will depend on the amount of melt in the pot and the ambient temperature. When it's 100 out it takes longer to cool off. On those days I have a small fan blowing on the pot when I turn it off.

    The fan never quits running on the pot.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check