Scoping a Rem 510 ?

[Wolfdog91]

Ok so I know what slow will say about value and what not but I've been wanting to scope this old 510 since I was like 12. And it's pretty beat up to the point I'm about to replace the barrel and stock ( side question will a 510-p barrel fit a 510 reciver ? Seems like it ). Anyhow the new barrel ,if I win the bid, won't have a front sight ( professional cut and recrown) so I need to scope it. So what's a good way to scope mount a scope in a 510. I don't have any decent gunsmiths within a few hours so really need something I could do. Also any scope recommendations to give it one of those kinda retro target rifle looks ? Would love a repro unertal but way above my budget right now.
Thanks !

[Spedsterguy]

Get a vintage weaver scope. A 4x or 6x will look great on the rifle. I would not drill and tap the old guy, but instead you can use jb weld and glue scope mounts on the receiver. If you ever change your mind you just heat the mounts with a propane torch and they will come off with no issues

[303Guy]

Yup. Get a glue on mount. I did that with my 512 and it's been on for .... I don't have enough fingers to count the number of years.

Does anyone actually make such a mount? It wouldn't be difficult to give a machine shop a drawing to make one. I would make it one piece (mine is two piece) to make it easier to align although it may be a bit harder to machine, i.e. cost more. Unless you have a friend with mill and lathe.

You know, I once mounted a base using Knead It steel epoxy putty.



The rail is one I milled. That rifle is still shooting rabbits and hares. The scope had to be high to clear the bolt handle and anyway, it's a single shot so enough space is required to get one's fingers in to chamber a round.

The 510 would be much easier to do.

[country gent]

Brownells sells 12" scope rail blanks flat and radius bottom 3/8" and 1" its pretty reasonable the radius bottom could be fitted to the barrel or reciever with thin coarse sand paper. mark receiver roughen and glue on. When setting up to glue use a vise and level the rifle then mix epoxy apply a thin coat to both parts and clamp rail level. use light clamping pressure to avoin pushing glue out or ad a grit to it. Once it starts to set clean excess from around rail with a delicate wood scraper and wipe clean and let cure.

[Texas by God]

The Weaver cantilever mount for the Browning SA will fit several .22 rifles and handguns. Drill and tap or epoxy will hold it if you don’t over scope it. My 510 is tapped and I might- MIGHT just better find or make some bases(s)- need finger room, no place for a bridge mount.

[Spedsterguy]

Only sand the mount if you plan to glue it to the receiver. Please don't sand the receiver, clean it with acetone several times. It will draw the oil out of the steel and the JB weld will adhere wonderfully

[303Guy]

I epoxied a front sight onto my 510 just to be able to test the rifle. I was so careful not to bump it and break it of - I had used cheap epoxy. Then came time to remove it. A tap with a small hammer and drift would do it, right? Hah - I had to clamp the barrel in a vice and give it a sharp crack to get it off! It actually pulled a little of the bluing off. One must use heat to get epoxy off.

[Drm50]

Weaver made dozens of one piece bases that were the same except for the radius. On some 22s you have to cut out for ejection port. I always use bases that are for standard rings, not groove 22 rings.

[beemer]

I bought a 510 Target Master, turned out the bore was in rough shape. My gunsmith happened to have a decent barrel off a 511-P. The shank fit the 510 properly but the pin holes were off about a 1/32 of an inch. I worked the holes out with a round file and bored them out for a larger pin. Should not be a problem for a gunsmith.

If the rifle is not original it wouldn't bother me to have it drilled and tapped for a scope. That said an old steel Weaver would look nice.

Does anyone know what year the receivers were grooved ?

Dave

[country gent]

On a lot of 22 with the shorter stocks and smaller size putting the scope base ahead of the receiver might help with getting the needed eye relief. Another is dosnt the 510 have the bolt handle slot down the top of the rear receiver ring?

[Texas by God]

Mine was already tapped when I got it, but I don't know if it ever had a mount on it.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[beemer]

Just happened to remember, the 511-P barrel didn't have the dovetail slot for the rear sight, I had to file one. The front had a dovetail and was bored for what was probably a globe sight.

Dave

[GBertolet]

There is a mount by Ken Viani, that uses the existing holes for a cantilever type mount. I know he makes them for the 513t, among other rifles. If interested, do a search, and you can get contact info.

[LtFrankDrebbin]

Yup. Get a glue on mount. I did that with my 512 and it's been on for .... I don't have enough fingers to count the number of years.

Does anyone actually make such a mount? It wouldn't be difficult to give a machine shop a drawing to make one. I would make it one piece (mine is two piece) to make it easier to align although it may be a bit harder to machine, i.e. cost more. Unless you have a friend with mill and lathe.

You know, I once mounted a base using Knead It steel epoxy putty.



The rail is one I milled. That rifle is still shooting rabbits and hares. The scope had to be high to clear the bolt handle and anyway, it's a single shot so enough space is required to get one's fingers in to chamber a round.

The 510 would be much easier to do.

That looks almost familiar

[Spedsterguy]

If you look around on eBay you can find a old Weaver steel scope. Make sure it works and has clear lenses. The smaller K series scope are not being repaired anymore. I buy them when I see them. I think they look perfect on old guns, vs the late style scopes.

[303Guy]

I had a pair of old weavers. One I gave to a buddy and the other I think I still have. One of the lenses has separated making it essentially unusable. It has the low profile eyepiece.

Yup LtFrankDrebbin, Lithgow Slazenger. Integral barrel-receiver and made from ordnance steel. Tough steel! That's my home made suppressor. Very quiet. That's one thing we have over our American friends - suppressors are almost mandatory for us. This one is over-barrel so the barrel is actually longer than it looks.

[Ajohns]

Find a piece of something round that is 1" diameter, maybe 6" long. Snug clamp the rings you're going to use to it, spaced as it would be for your scope, fit to your rifle. Then put the bases, or a one piece base if you have the room, on the rings. Put this setup on a flat surface so the bases are squared up and sit flat, tighten the rings. Get your JB weld ready and apply it to the bottom of the bases, and, the bottoms of them should be sanded and cleaned as said above. If, you can clamp this to your gun or receiver set it so it sits right and let it sit. Don't get impatient. Or, if you have to hold it by hand, be ready to hold it for some minutes so the JB will start to set up. After it's setup and dried or about dried, use an razor blade to cut the excess JB off. It doesn't take much JB, just enough to coat the bottom of the bases.
This whole process is done best if you can hold this setup, scope and all on your rifle and get it set and marked so it's in position for proper eye relief.
It can be tricky so don't be in a hurry, even practice if you want to get a sequence down. Having someone with you helps for holding something you can't. I've done this on a couple 22's and it's been holding for some years now.