Rifle reloading with a Hornady LNL

[just bill]

I have only used my lnl for pistol reloading, however I'm moving into the rifle reloading primarily. 223 and .308. Not rocket science, however all my rifles are magazine fed semi auto. Any caution suggestions about using a progressive press. Primarily like using a taper crimp or any useful little tricks.
Thanks,
Bill

[farmbif]

I found with certain stick type powders if I assisted the powder rotor by putting a little pressure on the adjusting stem to cut through the powder kernels while pulling the press lever down it helped quite a bit. other than that once you get dies set up it cranks out the ammo real good.

[oldhenry]

I think you'll get several different answers. The problem for me: 1. resizing requires lubing the case 2. resizing also requires trimming or at the minimum checking to see if it needs trimming.

Here's how I did it with my 550B for .223:
1. resized on my single stage
2. trimmed on my Match Prep
3. cleaned primer pockets & wet tumbled
4. primed on 550B & sometimes primed on RCBS bench primer
5. The 550B dispensed the RL15 for 77 & 80 Sierras & H322 for 52 Amax (the Dillon powder measure had been smoothed-up & was extremely accurate).
6. The 550B seated the bullets using a Hornady die (no crimp & no problem not crimping)

I know this sounds like I should have done it on a single stage, but the 550B saved time dispensing the powder & seating the bullet. Also the loaded ammo shot better than I did.

[Moleman-]

I run 223,6x45, 243win, 30-30, 303, 308, 30-06 and others through a Hornady progressive. I'll run them through to deprime/resize then tumble then back through the press just like you'd do for pistol rounds. Make darn sure a sample of the cases fit the rifles you plan on using them in before running them through the 2nd time, and do the same with a sample of the cartridges. Ball powder usually flows better than stick, but I've used quite a bit of IMR 4198 and 4895 in a progressive press using a hornady measure. I prefer seating and crimping for everything in two steps.

[earlmck]

The biggest difference when you reload for rifle is the need for case lubing. I'm quite fond of Hornady's "One Shot" case lube when I do a bunch of progressive press loading as I don't feel the need to clean the cartridges afterwards (which I do if I use my lanolin/alcohol homemade spray). I have some loading trays I only use for applying spray-on lube. Make sure to give the cases time for the lube to dry -- it doesn't work well if they go in the size die when still wet.

And when I am using CCI primers I seem to have to give them an extra "grunt" to make sure they are seated all the way. And I'm not happy with the way my powder measure dispenses stick powders when using the "rifle" drum so I go for a ball powder or at least use one of the "Reloader" series with the smaller sticks.

And I use the same seating set-up I'd use with the single stage; never had a problem in that area.

[DeadWoodDan]

I like others de-prime and prep brass as the first step. Once brass is uniform and ready to go, my first station is a de-capping pin. This ensures no media is left in the flash hole. Make sure the powder drop is set for best fit in that cartridge and all else is text book. I have been successful from .204 up to 45/70 without much issues. Like anything you will find the "tricks" and a nice rhythm.

[just bill]

Thanks, at this time I have mostly 7.62 cases which are totally pre prepped , just add primer, powder,projectiles and seat. Mostly concerned about crimping and the type of powder for the m1a 16. I read an unnerving comment about rifle powder vs pistol powder. Something about second detonation, advising the necessity to use pistol powder.
Bottle neck reloading is really new to me. All my semi auto pistols got the taper crimp by the additional taper crimp die, .45, 9mm, 10mm and 40's.

[BK7saum]

I wouldn't worry about type of powder issues. Basically, what you heard has some truth, but is taken out of context. Just use load data from the bullet or powder manufacturer, start low and work up. Since your rifles are semi-auto, some manufactures have data strictly for those actions. Rarely is the slowest powder/fastest velocity your friend in a semi-auto. Usually a middle of the data burn rate powder is best for reliable function and to keep from beating up your rifle.

[jmorris]

Main thing that bugged me loading 308 with one of my LNL’s was that with the seat die and bullet I was using, I had to stick the bullet up into the die then raise the ram enough to finish he 2nd half of the index, then set the bullet on the case, get fingers out of the way and complete the stroke.

Every other press I just set the bullet on the case and raise the ram because they all index completely on the down stroke.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Get a Lee Factory Crimp Die for each round (.223/308)

They make getting consistent crimps possible when case lengths are not exactly the same.

Randy

[Shawlerbrook]

I load for many different tube fed leverguns and Randy is right on, the Lee fcd makes crimping foolproof.

[Winger Ed.]

I use Win 748 for 5.56 & 7.62, and couldn't ask it to measure or shoot any better.

I don't use any of the stick powders unless I'll be weighing each charge.

[Three44s]

The stick powder I tried bridged right away. I had followed the powder measure break in to a tee beforehand.

Three44s

[jpamp]

Thank you for this thread and the replies, I also am needing expand from pistol to rifle with my LNL press. Do you notice indexing not being as accurate with longer cartridges depending on your stroke?

[Winger Ed.]

Do you notice indexing not being as accurate with longer cartridges depending on your stroke?

Shouldn't be a problem. If it is, I never heard of it.

Something I found:
I use one shot too, and after I sized a 5.56 case,
it wouldn't fit all the way down in my Lyman case/chamber check gage without a little 'help'.
I wiped it off with a paper towel, and it plunked right in.

I never tried a lubed case in a chamber, but it might be an issue with a tight one.

[onelight]

I don't use stick powder on a progressive measure and do use the Lee factory crimp die as has been mentioned.
223 , 308 and 30-06 are all I have loaded on progressives I do bolt and single shot on a single stage just don't need the quantity for them.

[jpamp]

Thanks guys, I haven done any rifle cartridges yet but will be in the next few weeks.

[Winger Ed.]

Something that has discouraged me from 5.56 or even 7.62 on my AP is all the problem children I run into.

Berdan cases on 7.62s that sneak in, and a lot of 5.56s that refuse to accept a new primer.
I'll sort, clean, blah, blah, blah, and more than I want to deal with on a progressive still get into the batch.

[Lloyd Smale]

ive got two lnl progressives. When i set up to load 556 or ar10 308 stuff i set both presses up. first one sizes deprimes, reprimes and i set my dillon trimmer on it and trim. then i take them all and tumble them to get the lube off. then they go to the second press that charges (if it needs to be flared for cast i use a lee flaring die in the first stage) sets the bullets and crimps (if necessary) both of my case feeders about sit idle though. there just to troublesome to bother with. i can do just as much in the same amount of time by feeding it by hand.

[Three44s]

I have not tried it but the powder bridging problem with extruded types might be alleviated by mounting some sort of miniature vibrator on the powder measure ot close by on the press.

Three44s