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Thread: Ran out of Dillon media polish, Lyman Case Polish is way too gloppy?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Also use Nu Finish, I drizzel it into the media while the machine is running, I do break-up the clumps with my fingers, not quite as bad as the op has in his pic using the Lyman brand.
    Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.

  2. #22
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    Car wax like some suggested. When it clumps pick it up and rub between your fingers. No big deal. Dillon seems to have the best product. I dump my brass in the tumbler after I shoot so it's not real dirty anyway. If I pick up dirty range brass I put it in a can of gas to loosen up and pour through a strainer before I put it in the tumbler to clean with some air fresh spray.

  3. #23
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    I use the nu finish, too, but find I have to run my vibrating tumbler for 20 mins or so, to ensure the nu finish gets spread out properly. Otherwise, it can cake up on the brass.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by CastingFool View Post
    I use the nu finish, too, but find I have to run my vibrating tumbler for 20 mins or so, to ensure the nu finish gets spread out properly. Otherwise, it can cake up on the brass.
    What he said /\ I always run it a bit to get it worked through the media

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    NuFinish works very well. I was a fan of the Dillon polish as well; now using NuFinish plus a tablespoon or two of mineral spirits in corn cob. Brass remains untarnished for a long time and friction in the sizing die seems lower.
    I also use this method, but measure by the cap on the mineral spirits can. I put two caps full in while the tumbler is running, then add the NuFinish. I let it run a few seconds and then dump the brass in. Also using corn cob media from Grainger. I don't remember the gradation, but its fine; much finer than the Lyman stuff.
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  6. #26
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    I think Lyman puts too much liquid polishing agent in their mix ... like you I find it "gloppy" ... it doesn't pour ...this may be to stop the "it's dusty" complaints but I would rather have dry , pourable and a little dust than the heavy saturated wet stuff they sell .

    Whatever you do ...don't add more liquid polish to the mix... that will make it worse. Nu-Finish liquid wax is just going to make it "gloppier" not better .
    The only thing I can think of is it needs drying out ... maybe mix some mineral spirits in the stuff and spread it out on newspaper to see if it will dry out some . I bought one bottle , hated it and replaced it with Midway's treated walnut shell media ... my old stand-by , which is just right , not too wet and not too dry.
    I'll never buy Lyman's again ... Too Gloppy for sure !
    Gary
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  7. #27
    Boolit Master derek45's Avatar
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    been using NuFinish for years.

    I've used Turtle Wax also, with good results
    .


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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45DUDE View Post
    Car wax like some suggested. When it clumps pick it up and rub between your fingers. No big deal. Dillon seems to have the best product. I dump my brass in the tumbler after I shoot so it's not real dirty anyway. If I pick up dirty range brass I put it in a can of gas to loosen up and pour through a strainer before I put it in the tumbler to clean with some air fresh spray.
    The product is NuFinish Car Polish. It’s not a wax.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guardian View Post
    I also use this method, but measure by the cap on the mineral spirits can. I put two caps full in while the tumbler is running, then add the NuFinish. I let it run a few seconds and then dump the brass in. Also using corn cob media from Grainger. I don't remember the gradation, but its fine; much finer than the Lyman stuff.
    I think the fine corn cob from Grainger/Zoro is 14/20 mesh. It is small enough that it seldom sticks in a flash hole. I usually polish before decapping but not always. Unless it’s a small batch that I’m loading on a single stage, it goes through a decapping station on a progressive. I just back off the sizing die so it clears the flash hole without sizing.

    I forgot to mention to run the polisher a few minutes before adding the brass. That’s really important lest clumps of polish and media end up in the brass.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  9. #29
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    The fine corn cob from Zoro is 20/40, and it's all I use anymore. A 40 pound bag lasts me about a year, but then I have 4 tumblers going most of the time.

    https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-bla...40/i/G2165387/

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    I just checked the label information on a new bottle of Nu-Finish, nothing listed for ingredients , one way or the other about ammonia in it. Like many here I have been using it for years and am very satisfied with the results it gives
    Literacy should not be considered optional in computer based communication.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    I also bought a bottle of the Lyman once . It will work thick but you have to dribble it in slow with the tumbler running or you can thin it . I learned a long time ago not to pour it all in one spot in a stopped tumbler bowl.
    If you sort out the lumps you can mash them up and feed it back in the running tumbler.

  12. #32
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    25 lb bags of crushed walnut bedding from the feed store and a bottle of nu finish car polish. Whole thing for not much more then a small bag of that overpriced brand named stuff.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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