Lead pipes

[brewer12345]

I was given some sections of lead pipe today. Never smelted lead before, always bought ingots. What do I have as far as alloy composition?

[Mitch]

Most lead pipe is pure lead or very close to it.There may be some Joints that have alot of solder in them to to you could have some tin in the mix if there are some solder joints.It should scratch eazy with the thumbnail.

Be carefull of trapped water in the pipe you do not need a steam explosion.Start each batch with a cold pot so the water has time to heat and evaporate do not add pipe to molten lead.

[bangerjim]

Yes............normally just plain old pure lead. You can waste your time trying to recover the small bit of 50/50 solder that may be holding joints together, but is a lot of work for very little diluted solder.

Make sure everything is TOTALLY COMPLETELY dry.

[Gewehr-Guy]

Also a handful of sawdust or even dry grass mixed in the melt helps to clean out all the junk in the old pipes. Find an old tin bucket or large can to hold the dross, as you will find a lot of it floating on top. I add the sawdust to the melt several times, if the pipes have lots of scale in them. The more you clean now, the less you will find floating in your casting pot when making bullets

[Dusty Bannister]

I do agree that melting wiped solder joints does take time that might be better used elsewhere, it also leaves one with a more consistent soft lead product. For some, especially those that shoot BP or handgun with a lead tin mix, it would be worth it to control the amount of tin in a mix for their specific purpose. And if tin is hard to find in your area, it can be very beneficial to the budget because the cost per pound is favorable.

[Bookworm]

I had a few hundred pounds of pipe. I took a hatchet and cut the joints out before rendering it down.

I rendered the joints separately, and sent off a sample for testing.

I ended up with 5% Sn, 95% Pb in the rendered joints. So, I have all the pure from the pipes, and 50 pounds of 20-1 from the joints.

I think it's worth it to take the time to separate it out.

[CastingFool]

I obtained 53 lbs of lead pipe, and cut out the joints. IMO, the two lbs of tin alloy I got wasn't worth my time.

[bangerjim]

Yes...........you have to look at your personal time and determine if hacking,cutting, and messing with old dirty lead pipe joints is worth the tiny bit of mabe 5-15% Sn/Pb melt. To me, I never messed with the joints in the past. Just melted the whole mess down and what little Sn was in there I would have added anyway!!!!!

I prefer to add PURE Sn in the 2-3% range when I am cooking any alloy these days.

Do what you feel your personal time and effort are worth for a small bit of Sn realized out of the operation. My time is sure worth a whole lot than less than a pound of Sn, let alone some diluted Sn/Pb mix.

Good luck!


banger

[Drm50]

I have several hundred lbs of lead pipe to smelt now. I to cut it on stump with axe. This more or less seals the ends. Like mentioned care must be used not to put this in pot in melted metal. Steam explosion can result. I get tin coffee can and cut pipe about length than would fit can flush. I set these in fire outside. Not only safe but most old pipe is dirty with scale or even paint. Pick up can with channel locks and you can pour metal out from under the dross. I always deform can a little to provide a spout.

[USSR]

I prefer to add PURE Sn in the 2-3% range when I am cooking any alloy these days.

I do the same. If I end up with a little extra, that's all well and good.

Don

[243winxb]

The lead pipe i had, didn't want to melt for me. There was some kind of coating on it, or it was oxidized?

I had to take a file to remove some of the coating, to melt it. After adding linotype it cast ok. Out of the mold, .360" unsized diameter. (Normal) But the sized bullets were smaller after sizing. Not the standard .3575" diameter. Less spring back after sizing.

[USSR]

That's what you get with pure lead - higher temperature melt and smaller diameter.

Don

[Winger Ed.]

The lead pipe i had, didn't want to melt for me. There was some kind of coating on it, or it was oxidized?

.

If its a flat, dull gray, that's probably just oxidation.
I've had a problem with lead pipe not wanting to melt easily at first,
but go after it with a torch, and it'll get right on with the program.

[bangerjim]

If you have never noticed, oxidized Pb melts not as easy as shiny Pb due to the insulation properties of the oxide and the higher melt temp of the skin. Breaking thru that skin to reveal the pure metal will start the melt process and will spread under the oxide. I have had oxidized items melt and leave a shell of oxide behind! Just break thru in a few places with a file, as above, and things will start perfectly.

[Drm50]

The lead pipe I have now was actually water lines in old house. It’s about 1/2” in ID. The out side is oxidized but inside is coated in layers like a onion of calcium. The calcium build up is from water treatment. Every 3’ or so was lead wings to drive support nails in. In same town the newer galvanized water pipes will grow shut with calcium & rust. All drains were lead too except the main which was cast iron.

[Stockcarver]

My oh my lead water piping!!!! Shades of Flynt Michigan.

Folks back then just did not know.

[trebleplink]

I recently processed a lot of lead pipe; cut them into 6" sections on a table saw before going in the pot. I found a lot of debris inside - I could tap out most of it, but some remained and held water. Just prior to adding to the pot I pre-heated them and blew flame through them with a propane torch to get rid of moisture. Even with these precautions, I had a tinsel town event - luckily I had on protective clothes and glasses. The end product was fine, but had a LOT of dross.