American Pioneer Power

[archeryrob]

Anyone use this yet? The FFF was binding my cylinder pin on the 1858 in just a few shots trying out the paper cartridges. I found it for $20.95 as a local gun shop as most places don't want to be licensed for blackpowder and they said this burns a lot cleaner.

I gave up on Pyrodex after fouling the crap out the inline my daughter uses. I switched that to 777 but have not tried that in the revolvers yet.

[rancher1913]

I may be wrong but I think that is a sugar base powder, you either love it or hate it.

best bet is to order real black powder from powder valley and have it shipped to your house.

[missionary5155]

Yep hard to beat the real BP ! We run 3F Goex in near everything.

[Edward]

Powder INC is my supplier for price/service and dependable how ever, do it quik as the times are changing ( Dylan quote)

[archeryrob]

I got it and going to try it now. I had my cylinder pin on the 1858 starting to bind after 3 shots trying papper cartridges the other day. I was hoping for something cleaner burning for the revolver.

[cas]

I used it a bit when it first came out. I honestly don't remember if I used it in muzzle loaders or not? Probably?

I know I used it in a few cartridges. .577-450 (with puffin filler) in particular. I've gone all real BP long ago, but would use it again for that purpose since I know the load it likes, shoots well enough and doesn't punish me.

It cleans up easy. I don't believe the shelf life is great though, being very hygroscopic IIRC.

[flyingmonkey35]

Love this stuff.

Works great.

Not a huge fan of the stick powder version though.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Hellgate]

Archery Rob,
My Remingtons bind quickly but between each loading of the cylinder I put a drop of olive oil on the front of the cylinder right where it touches the frame over the cylinder pin. I.E. charge the chambers, ram the balls then hold the barrel upwards and drop the oil on the cylinder/frame juncture and jiggle & rotate the cylinder til it twirls free. Do that every 6 shots and the pin should stay loose enough to shoot all day. If you want to, putting a lube over the balls also adds to lubing the cylinder pin & frame.

[archeryrob]

If you want to, putting a lube over the balls also adds to lubing the cylinder pin & frame.

I quit that with the over powder wads. The damn gun felt greasy all over.

[Hellgate]

I agree about the greasiness. I use wads only too but you could just lube the first chamber to splat some up into the frame/cylinder area. Try the simple drop of oil and I bet that fixes your binding problem. A small plastic squeeze bottle does the trick.

[arcticap]

Anyone use this yet?

That's all that I've used in revolvers.
It's good stuff and easy to clean.
A lot of cowboy shooters like it too.

[toot]

I have used it just to use it up. it goes bang. but you can't beat real BP!!

[brewer12345]

That's all that I've used in revolvers.
It's good stuff and easy to clean.
A lot of cowboy shooters like it too.

I still have a bunch of black mz and just got a 36 cal 1858. Is it too coarse to use in the smaller cal revolvers?

[Hellgate]

Brewer,
I'd recommend using a 20gr spout because it is larger and as you measure from the flask be sure to give it a good shake to minimize bridging of the granules. You will probably get about the equivalent of 17-18 grs by volume. If you have good lighting on the range take a glance at the chambers to see that they are evenly filled. Sometimes you might get a low fill and need to dump in a few more grains.

[brewer12345]

Thanks. I will be using a powder measure at first as I test out loads. As long as it isn't too coarse to successfully ignite, I will fool around with charges of 10 grains by volume and work my way up.

[TheOutlawKid]

Blackmz loves compression and i use it in my .36 cals...i can use 30 grains and still use a ball...it compresses a whole lot. The grains are large but just tap your flask to get the spout nicely filled. I noticed that if you load your gun and instead of shooting either pull the ball or remove the nipple to see the powder...it has turned into a fine dust...no longer the large cat litter sized grains, so the compression breaks down the grains easily into dust. So im guessing you can break down the grains to 3f sized without any real issue and will help you load a flask better.

[Markopolo]

that could the trick Surgi... the compression...

[archeryrob]

I liked shooting the powder. I had made up 22 paper cartridges and that is all as I ran out of balls and have to cast more, to make more cartridges. I put 2 drops of olive oil in the center of the cylinder and put it in the fame and cylinder pin though. Never lubed it again and the cylinder pin was stuck after 22 shots. I had to tap it out with a wooden dowel. The oil lubed the fowling and got better with a spin after every 6 shots. I assume I will have to re-oil it at every loading. Hellgate, how are you applying it each time? Do you have a special bottle for it?

The frame and pins cleaned up with just hot water and swaps. Then I oiled all and inside the barrel. I boiled a bit of water and dropped the cylinder in it. Some burnt paper didn't come out and fowling on the nipples didn't resolve. I'll have to pull the nipples and re-swab out the cylinder.

This might be better, but I really wouldn't call it A LOT cleaner.

[Black Powder Bill]

I use to shoot APP formerly Clean Shot by the case when BP cost me more than APP per pound. It was also good in my 57/70 trapdoor using 350 gr Carrol FN bullets a dash of grits compressed load.
It was great for me, I won lots of matches shooting it.

As for you cylinder pin-lube it up and watch your bullet lube as that will also cause binding.

[Hellgate]

I use a small plastic squeeze bottle available at hobby shops and medical supply houses. I use a 1 oz bottle with the small truncated cone push-on red cap to fit the cone shaped spout.