First time in the wind.

[tazman]

Today was my first time shooting a 22lr for group in the wind. All my previous trips, the wind was less than 10 mph.
Today the wind was 25mph with gusts to 40mph. Big difference.
I wasn't so much shooting groups as I was small patterns.
Every time the wind would stop for a bit I would shoot three or four dead center and the the wind would swirl through again.
The wind was mostly from the right rear but would swirl in between the shooting line and the target. Sometimes lifting the bullet and sometimes knocking it down. Always shifting back and forth from left to right and back again.
Really hard to figure out for a first timer. Just about the time you think you have it figured out, you're wrong.

[Chill Wills]

Yes. 22rf silhouette games played out to 200 meters (219yds) in Wyoming are all about reading the wind.

[tazman]

I have never tried to hit a target that far away with any 22lr rifle. I have no idea where to even begin with that. Lots of holdover I expect.

Just looked up a trajectory table for my ammunition. Hold over from a 50 yard zero would be about 52 inches.
Pretty sure my scope doesn't have that much adjustment.

[jeepyj]

Not much that wreaks a day more than a moderate wind. I wish the range we shoot at was a bit longer. We can shoot out to about 80yds and the holdover is quite minimal with .22s but we been talking about stretching it out a bit.

[tazman]

I can get out to 200, 300, and even 600 yards if I wanted to push a 22lr that far. I am not good enough to bother with it.
100 yards I may well try.

[country gent]

You need t make the wind see able easy. the winds from behind and then from the front are hardest. Make your self a set of wind flags. 2 together can tell a lot. SImple to make and set up once you start using them they will tell you a lot. I like a daisy wheel style.
Pock up a cheap yard wind daisy wheel for in the yard, or the pnes for kids to play with, A length of 1/4" aluminum rod, some aluminum vent sheet.2 pieces of aluminum tubing one to fit loosely inside he other. IE 1.2 od by 3/8 ID and 3/* od X 1/4 ID and 2 flat disc drawer magnets to fit on in the tubing. 2 1/4" fiberglass drive way flags. 2 friction nuts 1/4" Last is JB weld epoxy.

Cut the tubing 3/8: od 2 6" long pieces and 2 1/2" OD x 4 " long pieces. Deburr and square the ends of the tubing. 3/8 " down from end on 1/2" tubing drill a 1/4" hole thru
Cut a length of 1/4" rod a8" long and slide thru the hole you drilled in 1/2" tubing. disassemble the dasiy wheel and push a friction nut on te rods 1 end to where the daidy wheel and the second nut fits on with the wheel spinning freely
Cut you tao; frm the aluminum flashing cut it 1.5" over size all around and fold 1/2" over tight to remove sharp edges. I a scarp board cut a 3/8 groove 1/4" deep and 6-8" long and anither flat board. Tail should look like this on front < and be 5-6" log and 5-6" wide thru bottom corner drill a 1/4" or 5/16 hole close to both edges. lay out center line from point to back place over groove in bloc with rod n center mark also. A couple small drops of super glue helps here. Place flat board over and in a vise bend a u to mach rod inn tail, this makes a joint that can be glued solidly. Plug 1.2 OD tube just below bottom of 1/4" hole, a dowel with tape built up snug fit to seal. This is to use epoxy to make the mount seat for magnet.wax end of plug several times. clean tubing rod and groove in tail. mix JB weld and drop enough in the tube to make a seat 1/8" to 3/16 thick. and a small bead inside groove in tail and glue rod in clamp. till cured. When cured slide rod thru the 1/4" hole and with thread hang friction nuts and daisy wheel on end of shaftclose to location and slide rod thru to where it balances nicely Mix jb weld and fill tp of tube level full
Glue a magnet on the end of the 3?8" tubing this one can be either side up let cure A couple wraps of masking tape around end to create a pocket to hold magnet in location helps. When cured fit into 3/8 ID to a nice looser fit this needs to spin freely.
Now we make the magnetic bearing find the same pole as the magnet glued on you want NtoN or StoS here as the repel and allow the flag to float freely. Set you cured flag assembly up side down and a little JB in it and slide the magnet in with the right face up and clam lightly, let cure. Now drive the first friction nut on to depth and slide daisy wheel on then the second friction nut. glue the fiberglass pole from driveway marker in the bottom of the 3/8 ID tube.
Paint one vane on the daisy wheel and one side of the tail / vane. this makes it easy to judge wind speed and direction. Add a 18" length of soft fuzzy light yarn to the vane in the hole in bottom corner. Again helps to judge speed and high low variations. The magnetic bearing allows a very freey movement that tracks wind very well.

If you make 2 set one about 3/4 way to target the second 1/2 or a little less. This will allow you to easily read the wind. the daisy wheel gives the wind speed by reading the rotation speed the tail fine changes in its angle Watching the rod beam shows direction angle as does the painted side.

[country gent]

For 200 yds come up 22-24 mins above 50 yd zero

[Chill Wills]

Just 6 to 7 minutes from 50 to 100m

7 more up to 150m

10 more up to 200m

23-25 minutes in your scope? Maybe?

This is with iron sights or with external scope adjustments on the "old time" scopes

[tazman]

Just 6 to 7 minutes from 50 to 100m

7 more up to 150m

10 more up to 200m

23-25 minutes in your scope? Maybe?

This is with iron sights or with external scope adjustments on the "old time" scopes

Thanks for the numbers guys. I will need to check my scope turrets and see what adjustment there is left.
I suppose I could always put a rail on it but I would like to avoid that if I can.

[tazman]

country gent--- thanks for the detailed description and instructions of the wind flags. That frictionless bearing setup is an idea I would never have thought about.

[uscra112]

Yes. 22rf silhouette games played out to 200 meters (219yds) in Wyoming are all about reading the wind.

Isn't it in Wyoming where they use an anvil hung on a log chain for a wind flag? Or was that Montana.

[tazman]

Isn't it in Wyoming where they use an anvil hung on a log chain for a wind flag? Or was that Montana.

Oh come on. It can't be that bad. Or can it?

[country gent]

Tazman, I have shot high power matches at Perry where the wind came up off the lake and would occasionally break off the 6'X6' target frames built from 2 x 4s LOL Yes wind can be an issue. But then its conditions that separate the shooters from the wanna bees.

52" of hold over is 26 mins of elevation at 200 yds

[tazman]

I don't have the experience or expertise to handle that kind of wind......yet.
I have some work and study to do.

[Iowa Fox]

On my rimfire that I built for Wyoming I used a fixed power SWFA SS with moa reticle and moa knobs. I mounted it in Burris signature rings with a strip of the thickest credit card I could find under the back +0.020 insert. I zero'd mine at 100 yard due to the distance we would be shooting. Don't be afraid to give it a try, you will have a lot of fun.

[MrWolf]

Trying to remember but I think when I shot my 10/22 at 300 yards the holdover was about 11'. Actually did really good once I knew which piece of vegetation to aim at above the berm.

[tazman]

Sounds a lot like launching an artillery shell or mortar round.

[jeepyj]

You need t make the wind see able easy. the winds from behind and then from the front are hardest. Make your self a set of wind flags. 2 together can tell a lot. SImple to make and set up once you start using them they will tell you a lot. I like a daisy wheel style.
Pock up a cheap yard wind daisy wheel for in the yard, or the pnes for kids to play with, A length of 1/4" aluminum rod, some aluminum vent sheet.2 pieces of aluminum tubing one to fit loosely inside he other. IE 1.2 od by 3/8 ID and 3/* od X 1/4 ID and 2 flat disc drawer magnets to fit on in the tubing. 2 1/4" fiberglass drive way flags. 2 friction nuts 1/4" Last is JB weld epoxy.

Cut the tubing 3/8: od 2 6" long pieces and 2 1/2" OD x 4 " long pieces. Deburr and square the ends of the tubing. 3/8 " down from end on 1/2" tubing drill a 1/4" hole thru
Cut a length of 1/4" rod a8" long and slide thru the hole you drilled in 1/2" tubing. disassemble the dasiy wheel and push a friction nut on te rods 1 end to where the daidy wheel and the second nut fits on with the wheel spinning freely
Cut you tao; frm the aluminum flashing cut it 1.5" over size all around and fold 1/2" over tight to remove sharp edges. I a scarp board cut a 3/8 groove 1/4" deep and 6-8" long and anither flat board. Tail should look like this on front < and be 5-6" log and 5-6" wide thru bottom corner drill a 1/4" or 5/16 hole close to both edges. lay out center line from point to back place over groove in bloc with rod n center mark also. A couple small drops of super glue helps here. Place flat board over and in a vise bend a u to mach rod inn tail, this makes a joint that can be glued solidly. Plug 1.2 OD tube just below bottom of 1/4" hole, a dowel with tape built up snug fit to seal. This is to use epoxy to make the mount seat for magnet.wax end of plug several times. clean tubing rod and groove in tail. mix JB weld and drop enough in the tube to make a seat 1/8" to 3/16 thick. and a small bead inside groove in tail and glue rod in clamp. till cured. When cured slide rod thru the 1/4" hole and with thread hang friction nuts and daisy wheel on end of shaftclose to location and slide rod thru to where it balances nicely Mix jb weld and fill tp of tube level full
Glue a magnet on the end of the 3?8" tubing this one can be either side up let cure A couple wraps of masking tape around end to create a pocket to hold magnet in location helps. When cured fit into 3/8 ID to a nice looser fit this needs to spin freely.
Now we make the magnetic bearing find the same pole as the magnet glued on you want NtoN or StoS here as the repel and allow the flag to float freely. Set you cured flag assembly up side down and a little JB in it and slide the magnet in with the right face up and clam lightly, let cure. Now drive the first friction nut on to depth and slide daisy wheel on then the second friction nut. glue the fiberglass pole from driveway marker in the bottom of the 3/8 ID tube.
Paint one vane on the daisy wheel and one side of the tail / vane. this makes it easy to judge wind speed and direction. Add a 18" length of soft fuzzy light yarn to the vane in the hole in bottom corner. Again helps to judge speed and high low variations. The magnetic bearing allows a very freey movement that tracks wind very well.

If you make 2 set one about 3/4 way to target the second 1/2 or a little less. This will allow you to easily read the wind. the daisy wheel gives the wind speed by reading the rotation speed the tail fine changes in its angle Watching the rod beam shows direction angle as does the painted side.

That's a heck of a write up, maybe another project for the shop.

[country gent]

I have made those flags up in sets for several friends at the club. They are very responsive to small changes in velocity and direction. Some like a plastic egg instead of the daisy wheel. Tail size also affects response to direction. bigger moves faster. I believe the tubing I used was 5/8 id 1/2" id and 1/2 0d and 3/8 id. Find the drawer magnets available first and work from there. I make the bigger tube the top sliding over the smaller this keeps rain dust and dirt out better Chances are you will need to polish out the tubing a little to get the fit you want. For lighter weight and a more responsive beam 1/4 OD aluminum tubing or arrow shafts can be used. You want the tail formed close to the beam radius for the strongest glue joint. The block I described and a vise make it easy to do. If you want 2-3 4-40 screws can be used instead to hold tail on to beam. But its a small thread to tap in aluminum.

Lay out everything and cut close finish with a small file and work carefully. This is a perfect project for those with a mini lathe as the tubes beam and most parts can be faced square and chamfered in it. The tubing can be opened up easier in it too. Have fun with t and make them as fancy as you want.

Online metals would have all the materials and you could choose from aluminum or brass tubing. The last neodymium magnets I ordered were hazmat shipping so if possible wood crafters, lowes, home depot, or menards locally. They are available in most cabinet departments for holding doors and drawers closed.

[jsizemore]

When most scopes are at the end of their adjustment range they don't adjust .25 moa, for instance, as they normally do. Throw in extended parallax adjustment and you run into a big reduction in the number of available scopes. T-series Weavers are a screaming deal. Even my Leupold EFR scopes run out of long range adjustment using a 20 moa base. TK Lee has put custom dots in my scopes to get on target at long range while still operating in their "sweet spot" range.

22lr shooting ain't cheap.