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Thread: .303 Brit, cast boolet mold recomendation

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have trouble believing the throat is small than groove diameter. Not impossible I guess but unlikely I'd think.

    Just my opinion.

    Regardless, I'd be trying a boolit of at least 0.001" over groove diameter and if it will chamber use that. At worst it will be resized by small "throat" but will be the best fit you can get. If it won't chamber and the throat is that small I suspect you will get poor accuracy and bad leading from gas cutting.

    Again, just my opinion.

    Try the largest boolit that will chamber then let us know how it goes.

    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

    Longbow

  2. #22
    Boolit Man
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    Well, I guess I'll give my original choice a try and let ya know how it works out.

    Scotty

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    I find the groove diameter to be a bit unusual. My two-groove has a groove diameter of .318 which I thought was about standard with a groove diameter of .304. The bullet needs somewhere to expand into.

    My limited trials with cast in this rifle indicated boolit material being dragged rearward causing an uneven base. My thinking is that if light charges are to be used then a clearance between groove and boolit is not an issue. The charge needs to be less than what would cause flame cutting. As has been said, a chamfered or rebated base would solve that problem. However, if a lube grooved boolit is used without lube, the grooves themselves get distorted. That may not be an issue.

    Here is a bit of gas cutting..



    And here none



    You may notice by the striations on the boolit that the bore is a bit rough.

    With a groove diameter of .314 you may find gas cutting to be less of a problem because it is more like to seal in the grooves.
    Last edited by 303Guy; 12-29-2020 at 12:12 AM.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

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  4. #24
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by 303Guy View Post
    I find the groove diameter to be a bit unusual. My two-groove has a groove diameter of .318 which I thought was about standard with a groove diameter of .304. The bullet needs somewhere to expand into.

    My limited trials with cast in this rifle indicated boolit material being dragged rearward causing an uneven base. My thinking is that if light charges are to be used then a clearance between groove and boolit is not an issue. The charge needs to be less than what would cause flame cutting. As has been said, a chamfered or rebated base would solve that problem. However, if a lube grooved boolit is used without lube, the grooves themselves get distorted. That may not be an issue.

    Here is a bit of gas cutting..



    And here none



    You may notice by the striations on the boolit that the bore is a bit rough.

    With a groove diameter of .314 you may find gas cutting to be less of a problem because it is more like to seal in the grooves.
    Hmmmm.....would a gas check boolit without the gas check act like a rebated boolit? Maybe I'll try the boolit without the gas check and see how that goes, I'm not pushing them all that hard. The boolit in question has tumble lube grooves, and I am used to using tumble lube, it works pretty well in my .357.

    Scotty

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    My No.4 likes #314299 as-cast from wheelweights and unsized at .315," lubricated with Lee Liquid Alox with 6 grains of Red Dot.
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy iron brigade's Avatar
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    I have 3 Enfield rifles. P14, no. 4 mk 1 and a Lithgow no. 1 mk 3. All shoot the noe 316299 quite well. For gas check loads I like h4895 or 3031. For non gas check loads as cast at .317 and 6.7 grains of bullseye. Have shot many sub 2" groups with this load. That would be at 100 yards.
    Generally speaking... Could be his savage made Enfield has those bore dimensions. Not common, but possible.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy pacomdiver's Avatar
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    scotty,
    where are you located?

  8. #28
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by pacomdiver View Post
    scotty,
    where are you located?
    I live in Massachusetts, why do you ask?

    Scotty

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy pacomdiver's Avatar
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    figured you might be close to someone who can help you out

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy AviatorTroy's Avatar
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    My experience with Enfields... I use the same mold as the original post was questioning with good results, even tho my rifles have fairly rough bores.

    I “beagled” that mold out now it throws about .316-317 depending on the day.

    Hornady gascheck, I tumble lube with lee alox and I don’t find it necessary to size them. I like the bullet fat in the .303

    10grs of Unique

    Or Trail Boss up to the base of the shoulder..
    Last edited by AviatorTroy; 02-28-2021 at 03:16 AM.
    Airplanes and guns should always be made out of metal.

  11. #31
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by AviatorTroy View Post
    My experience with Enfields... I use the same mold as the original post was questioning with good results, even tho my rifles have fairly rough bores.

    I “beagled” that mold out now it throws about .316-317 depending on the day.

    Hornady gascheck, I tumble lube with lee alox and I don’t find it necessary to size them. I like the bullet fat in the .303

    10grs of Unique

    Or Trail Boss up to the base of the shoulder..
    How do you get the gas check on without using a sizer?

    Scotty

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy AviatorTroy's Avatar
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    My shank and gas check are a good enough fit that I line a couple dozen gas checks up on the bench and snap the bullets on them. They are tight enough that I tumble lube after they are fitted and rarely does one come off. And I’m not worried about a bore obstruction, 20,000 PSI will seat them permanently no question about it
    Airplanes and guns should always be made out of metal.

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy AviatorTroy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyp99 View Post
    Hmmmm.....would a gas check boolit without the gas check act like a rebated boolit? Maybe I'll try the boolit without the gas check and see how that goes, I'm not pushing them all that hard. The boolit in question has tumble lube grooves, and I am used to using tumble lube, it works pretty well in my .357.

    Scotty
    I do occasionally load up a few gas check bullets naked. I keep the velocity low, like barely supersonic. 5-6grs Bullseye or 8grs Unique. I use to load up a lot of those “gallery” type loads for playing around a a campsite or something but with the value of primers right now (not that I’m short) but I just shoot .22s in that situation. About 5 22LR = 1 small rifle primer at the moment.

    I can’t believe I just typed that..
    Airplanes and guns should always be made out of metal.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    I read once that when WWII ended that the relaxing of the original specs for barrels was then tightened up. So asked that same question on the Lee Enfield section of the gunboards forum. While the answer did not surprise me I was told that they did tighten up on the specs. However many, many thousands of barrels were made during the war and would be continued to be a source of replacement barrels for years to come. And also a lot of used barrels were also used as replacement barrels if they met certain specs for used barrels. And that Savage who made a bunch of No.4 rifles had when the existing British contracts had run out also boxed up whatever parts they had and sent them to Long Branch in Canada. So it isn't uncommon to find rifles made at Long Branch with Savage parts. Ian Skennerton's books are a fasicinating source of of info on these rifles. Frank

  15. #35
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    RogerDat's Avatar
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    Another using the NOE .316 mold. I think mine casts a heavy 220 grain bullet and I had to look up loads for it at ADI web site then use the powder brand equivalency chart they have to figure out what powder that load was in US brand of powder. Worked out fine. I also PC for that which adds some girth, some weight, and some serious lubricant/protection.

    I haven't spent enough time working up loads for it. Found something that hit the target for 5 shots and stopped there to deal with other projects. Will get back to it once nice weather arrives.

    I will try the Lee .312 but it will be small unless I "bump" the nose to get it to bulge out a bit. Still might work as a plinking bullet for mild loads.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check