What steel for turning new fasteners

[wonderwolf]

I'm planning on making screws for some actions and other projects and though they are not critical in all areas I don't want to blow through all my 0-1 for them especially in the long run.

I usually order from speedy metals but have a hard time deciding on what round stock they have that is suitable for just run of the mill flat head fasteners/stock screws. Also doing some tool restoration (Stanley planes) that need new screws so its more than just things I could potentially order off numrich etc.

Curious what is preferred for new made custom hardware. Thanks

[Deadeye Bly]

McMaster Carr has a wide selection of steel rods in smaller sizes and the price is hard to beat. If you are going to heat treat them I like to use 4140 as it heat treats well by flame hardening. If you are not going to heat treat them then use one of the 1144 rods, either Stressproof or Fatigueproof. They run about 25-30 Rc and are free machining and available in smaller sizes. The 4140 alloy ETD 150 is a littler harder and stronger but doesn't come any smaller than 1/2". McMaster has always been one of the easiest and best companies to deal with. I've dealt with them for over 40 years.

[country gent]

If you know what the action material is make the screws from the same, helps to get a good match on the finish. I like prehard 4140 for screws, machines and polishes nice, finishes well being already hard no warp from heat treat to deal with. It also depends on how your cutting the threads. single point in the lathe gives more leeway than with a thread die.

[Reverend Recoil]

I have turned down engine cylinder head bolts for screws and firing pins. They are of an alloy similar to 4130.

[wonderwolf]

If you know what the action material is make the screws from the same, helps to get a good match on the finish. I like prehard 4140 for screws, machines and polishes nice, finishes well being already hard no warp from heat treat to deal with. It also depends on how your cutting the threads. single point in the lathe gives more leeway than with a thread die.

All single point threading, I've never heat treated ones I've made in the past I was always told they should be softer than the action to keep from damaging the action.

[Brass&Lead]

Sometimes brass is the answer. Instead of steel, dolling up a firearm with brass screws to replace the steel ones where the extreme strength of steel is not needed.
Stainless is another choice but can be a pain to machine. Look at the application and make the choice.
If high strength is required, you might use 4140 or stressproof and then heat treat it.

[country gent]

I use online metals myself and selecting a material can be harder with the brief descriptions. I do order the slightly softer material for screws as mentioned above. But I also want a full a thread fit as possible. Some time ink a thread you cut and run it in a lot are snug but only in the crests the points bear but the flats are free. Why I ask how the threads were to be cut above.

I worked in a food plants tool room for years when you machine the various Stainless Steels daily for years it becomes as easy as cold roll or other materials. Stainless needs slower speeds and feeds also a good oil or coolant. ( The spaghetti extruder bars were 404 stainless and had hundreds of .090 holes in a pattern so the noodle when pressed thru went into the cans. Drilling these holes and the larger hole wasnt a bad job but did take time). Getting the chip to break can be a problem.

[Stockcarver]

I have used engine bolts, main bearing bolts, grade 5 and grade 8 bolts, drill rod, 4140 and a lot of other things. Lots of good steel in the junk yards if you know what to look for. I worked in commercial machine shops for years, my junk boxes are full!

Stockmakers hand screws, most made from grade 8 bolts, some from socket head cap screws.

[gishooter]

I use speedy metals also. They are local to me.
I use a lot of 1144 stress proof. Turns great and plenty strong. It is used commonly in industry for screws/bolts.
Brownells sells several assortments of screw blanks just for work you are contemplating. I've used in the past with no complaints.
In fact will be making custom stock screws for a customer's match rifle. Bought a new stock and the factory screws are too short. Machining several sets for him using the Brownells blanks. These: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...w-prod377.aspx

Can be a pain to single point these but have done it. I usually just use a round die. For those instances I need to have a tighter fit I just adjust the die to cut a bit less. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...t-prod376.aspx

I have a mini-grooving and cut off tool holder from AR Warner just for small stuff like screws. Then add one of the 60 degree threading inserts. Works great for the small threading jobs.
https://www.arwarnerco.com/60-Degree...groover-rh.htm

Make a round die holder like Joe in this video. I made one each for my little 13/16 OD dies and 1 inch OD dies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIQdxMRqjLA

[wch]

I'm planning on making screws for some actions and other projects and though they are not critical in all areas I don't want to blow through all my 0-1 for them especially in the long run.

I usually order from speedy metals but have a hard time deciding on what round stock they have that is suitable for just run of the mill flat head fasteners/stock screws. Also doing some tool restoration (Stanley planes) that need new screws so its more than just things I could potentially order off numrich etc.

Curious what is preferred for new made custom hardware. Thanks

Get yourself a copy of "Machinery's Handbook".

[Brass&Lead]

Gishooter – Thank you! I just learned something new today – screw blanks! Adjustable dies (split dies) allow you to make up for wear on the threaded hole.

[wonderwolf]

I use speedy metals also. They are local to me.
I use a lot of 1144 stress proof. Turns great and plenty strong. It is used commonly in industry for screws/bolts.
Brownells sells several assortments of screw blanks just for work you are contemplating. I've used in the past with no complaints.
In fact will be making custom stock screws for a customer's match rifle. Bought a new stock and the factory screws are too short. Machining several sets for him using the Brownells blanks. These: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...w-prod377.aspx

Can be a pain to single point these but have done it. I usually just use a round die. For those instances I need to have a tighter fit I just adjust the die to cut a bit less. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...t-prod376.aspx

I have a mini-grooving and cut off tool holder from AR Warner just for small stuff like screws. Then add one of the 60 degree threading inserts. Works great for the small threading jobs.
https://www.arwarnerco.com/60-Degree...groover-rh.htm

Make a round die holder like Joe in this video. I made one each for my little 13/16 OD dies and 1 inch OD dies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIQdxMRqjLA

I actually have a bunch of the brownells blank screws. Not sure where I got them but the sizes I need are a little more obscure than what is in the kit at least the part of the kit that I got.

I hate threading with a die, I've done so much single point threading I'm far more confident in it.

[curdog007]

I use 41L40, then harden and oil quench and temper at 1000 deg. It machines like butter, and with the heat treat, the screws are very tough. I think online or Speedy metals carries it.
Remember, proper quenching oil at the correct temperature, NOT engine oil.

[GONRA]

GONRA sez lottsa times you can single point thread to get a nice
uniform pitch job then chase the threads with a die to get best thread form.