re loading .303

[Sirius1963]

Good morning - new here, and quite new to re loading. Ive a vgc 1949 no4 mk2 enfield and to date have been reloading reduced rounds with 13gr of red dot, and having a lot of fun. 3-4" groups at 100 is good enough for me. But Im keen to knock down targets at 200/300 yds, and would really appreciate any advice on loads/bullets. I have the access to the following powders - red dot, Vhit N140, and Vhit N110, and bullets cast lubed gas checked 165 gr and 200gr. I am enjoying using lighter loads and if possible would happily address that part of the spectrum for now. Any help greatly recieved. I do gave Lymans 50th edition reloading, and access to all the on line reference available if anyone can point me in the right direction, thanks

[Larry Gibson]

With the 200 gr cast, if GC'd (?)start at 24 gr of N140, use a dacron filler and work up in 1/2 gr increments until you find the accuracy goes south. Best accuracy will be in the 1700 - 1900 fps range and it should knock down steel targets of reasonable size at 300 yards. Neck size the cases if you aren't already.

[MOC031]

Good morning - new here, and quite new to re loading.

Life will be a lot easier for you, especially if you're pursuing 200/300 yard shooting, if you start out with Prvi Partisan brass and invest in a Lee collet die for resizing. Your brass will last a lot longer if you avoid full length resizing and resize with the Lee collet die as much as possible, and when using the full length die, size only until the bolt closes with a crush fit.

And while you probably don't have the parts yet, first running new unfired Privi Partisan brass into a Lyman M .33 neck expander, and then into your full length sizer until the neck is sized back down just enough for the case to chamber, will give you cases that headspace on the shoulder instead of the rim, with minimal case stretching. Longer brass life; possibly much better accuracy.

[dogmower]

I've had good results with the Lyman 314299 or NOE equivalent over 35 grains Imr 4350, sized .314 and powder coated. 2nds on neck sizing. When I get new (or just new to me) brass, I full length size. From then on, neck size only. Especially important in the Enfield 303's as they tend to stretch with full length sizing.

[Adam Helmer]

Life will be a lot easier for you, especially if you're pursuing 200/300 yard shooting, if you start out with Prvi Partisan brass and invest in a Lee collet die for resizing. Your brass will last a lot longer if you avoid full length resizing and resize with the Lee collet die as much as possible, and when using the full length die, size only until the bolt closes with a crush fit.

And while you probably don't have the parts yet, first running new unfired Privi Partisan brass into a Lyman M .33 neck expander, and then into your full length sizer until the neck is sized back down just enough for the case to chamber, will give you cases that headspace on the shoulder instead of the rim, with minimal case stretching. Longer brass life; possibly much better accuracy.

MOCO31,

Very well stated! I would have said the same thing, but you did it better.

Be Well.

Adam

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Welcome to the Forum, Siruis1963. This is a good place to be, with lots of good information. You'll find lots of good advice and information by using our "search" feature on topics you wish to learn about.

DG

[303Guy]

Hi Sirius, glad to have you on board.

Would you happen to have some photos of your rifle? Is it a two-groove or five groove? I have three two-groove rifles, one that I haven't fired yet. Unfortunately, none of my rifles are in original form - all 'sporterized' but hey, they're Lee Enfield's. One, a rust damaged bore two-groove is pretty accurate with a certain jacketed bullet and while not 'professionally' done is actually rather nicely done and fits me like a grove.

Anyway, I digress. I am now starting to play with cast boolits for range range shooting after a very long pause, so I am obviously going to be interested in following your progress so please keep us posted. We are all interested in your progress, I'm sure.

[MOC031]

But Im keen to knock down targets at 200/300 yds, and would really appreciate any advice on loads/bullets.

Heading straight to the 300 yard butts when you're both new to reloading and new to bullet casting is taking an awfully big bite for starters. But hey - as we used to say in the Airborne: "God hates a coward!".

More advice after my earlier advice on choosing brass and how to treat it...

• Powder coating may not be the best, particularly for the benchrest guys, but it's the easiest and most foolproof in my opinion.
• Pick moulds that aren't bore riders, with sizes that really cram the throat for your initial forays into 200/300 yards. If they're a tight, tight fit in the throat/ball seat, I think I can promise you that when the bright light flashes at their base, they'll magically conform to the size of the lands and grooves almost immediately.
• Unless your Lee Enfield has already been raped and molested by some Bubba, irretrievably vandalized by drilling, chopping, cutting, etc., invest in an S&K no-gunsmithing mount to install a scope for load testing. And then invest in a Mk1 Singer click adjustable leaf sight (or if you have a winner there, something like a Parker-Hale PH4) for the back sight.
• Go to the Milsurps website forums and learn a bit about how to properly sight in your rifle, and how to properly adjust the sights. The weapons pams for the Lee Enfield rifle are there for downloading.

I am just a rank, lazy amateur compared to most here, however. I can tell you that these two mould designs from Accurate have performed incredibly well in my 1950 Long Branch.

[MOC031]

One, a rust damaged bore two-groove is pretty accurate with a certain jacketed bullet and while not 'professionally' done is actually rather nicely done and fits me like a grove.

Have you ever thought of pouring yourself a lead lap and then lapping that puppy out to a nice consistent finish from end to end? Just keep giving that lap a few taps to obdurate it in the loose spots, and then continue lapping from end to end until the effort is consistent every millimeter of the barrel.

In fact, after spending eight months of the last year getting the carcass of what was formerly Montana Rifle Company running again as a barrel shop, I think I can confidently tell you that you can aggressively run Bulldog medium steel wool up and down your bore for hours before you change the diameter sufficiently that the barrel takes a new pin gauge. That's the secret of "hand lapped barrels" from more than a few barrel manufacturers. That should remove the rust.

[303Guy]

I would like to learn the art of lead lapping. I have thought about lapping that two-groove but just to remove sharp edges. I have another rifle that is tight mid section that I want to lap.

Here's the two-groove bore.

[wellfedirishman]

I have had very good results with a 'Fattest 30' mold which casts .316 Boolits in my Lee Enfield. Knocks steel over at 200 and 300 yards.

[MOC031]

I would like to learn the art of lead lapping. I have thought about lapping that two-groove but just to remove sharp edges. I have another rifle that is tight mid section that I want to lap.

Steel wool to "hand lap" as numerous barrel manufacturers do would take care of whatever sharp edges you think you have. But as you probably know, it won't lap the barrel out to end to end conformity.

Pouring a lead lap and then lapping the barrel isn't particularly technical; in fact, it's more about being boring as your lap goes back and forth. It takes a long, long, LONG time to take out the tight spots in a barrel.

[trenches]

I use 2400 in my cast bullet loads for the .303.

[samari46]

I use IMR 4759 in my Finn Model 27 dated to 1935 7.62x54r. Lyman 314299 w/Javeling lube, 20.0 grs 4759, WLP.Hansen cases,. I get 2-2.5" groups at 100yds. I've been meaning to try this powder in both the 303British and 30-06 with similar heavy for caliber bullets. Most likely need a NOE 316299 both for a 2 groove Long Branch sporter and my Fazerkaly 1949 No.MKII. Obviously at 74 my eye sight is the limiting factor. Bought a Bad Ace Tactical no gunsmithing scope mount simple installation,but until they open up the ranges closed due to covid looks like no shooting again this summer. Frank

[Eddie1971]

316-299 is the ticket if you have a used and slightly worn Lee. I use that in my Number 1 powder coated and gas checked and sized to .315. A charge of 36 grains of IMR4350 gives me 2-3 inches on paper. My Number 4 was unissued and has a mint bore. I can use the .312 NOE mold, powder coated gas checked to .314. It does well with 36 grains of W748.