Question on a early 32 cal SW revolver 32 long or 32-20 ?

[RU shooter]

This morning my boss who really ain't a gun guy ask me about a revolver he just got after the passing of his brother . He stated it's a 32 ? And it's a Smith that's about all he knows about it . He showed me a pic on his phone and to me it looks like a pre war hand ejector model 5 or so inch barrel and nickel plated and in excellent condition . My question is is if it's a 32 long or a 32-20 ? Or how can I get him to verify the caliber ? Will it be stamped 32-20 or 32 wcf or ? To me it don't look like a small frame 32 long don't know if they made the hand ejector models in 32long ? He wanted to try to get a box of ammo for it and if he has to order I want to make sure he gets the right ammo . If some one could post a picture of the barrel markings I can show him that would help a lot .

Thanks ,Tim

[Tatume]

There are very many different S&W 32 Hand Ejector revolvers. Some are the 32 S&W Long, and some are 32-20. You will need to examine the gun. The cartridge will be there somewhere.

[RU shooter]

Understood best I got right now is it looks real close to this one I found on the web .
http://www.harryviezensfineguns.com/...r-third-model/

[Larry Gibson]

Barrel probably will have 32 S&WL on it or 32-20 (or 32 WCF).

[leadeye]

The most common 32 Long I've seen is the 1903 and the over all gun looks smaller than the 32-20 HE.

Here's a 32-20 HE that somebody put a Sheard sight on long time ago.

[NoZombies]

If it's a K-frame, then 98% likelyhood of being a .32-20.

The caliber should be marked on the left hand side of the barrel (if it's of the vintage it sounds like) and should read .32 WCF, .32 Winchester's, or .32 Smith and Wesson Long. Once he finds the caliber marking it should be easy enough to interpret.

[gnoahhh]

The most common 32 Long I've seen is the 1903 and the over all gun looks smaller than the 32-20 HE.

Here's a 32-20 HE that somebody put a Sheard sight on long time ago.

That appears to be a M1905 Hand Ejector. M1903 Hand Ejectors (the majority of which I daresay are .32 Long or .22) are a smaller frame.

You really do need to examine the gun firsthand to determine its chambering. Lots of luck finding ammo on line in either case in this day and age.

[Outpost75]

Starline makes brass for both.

Accurate molds in great variety, or find an Ideal #3118. 2 grains of Bullseye in .32 S&W Long, 3 grains in .32-20 are accurate and easy on the older guns. The S&W cylinders will want bullets .314-.315" and soft lead.

[leadeye]

Starline makes brass for both.

Accurate molds in great variety, or find an Ideal #3118. 2 grains of Bullseye in .32 S&W Long, 3 grains in .32-20 are accurate and easy on the older guns. The S&W cylinders will want bullets .314-.315" and soft lead.

Good to know. I shoot 32-20 in both rifle and revolver.

[Drm50]

32 long S&Ws will be 1903 and 32/20 will be 1905. The frame size of 32/20 would be equal to what later evolved into K frame. Also later the m16 designated K32 would be last 32 Long to be built on K frame. I have had several 32 HEs and 32/20s. What I have been after is a 32/20 HE Target Model When I find them they are in poor shape or they what $2000 up for nice ones. Don’t want one that bad. I just sold identical gun in 38sp excellent condition for $800. The 1903 and 1905 HE were made in several series. The newer ones are the ones you want for shooters, they have heat treated cylinders. I only load cast and factory dupe in the old revolvers anyway but I like the heat treated models.

[Old School Big Bore]

My 1905/4 .32-20 is marked ".32-20 CTG" on the right side of the barrel. There should be miniscule patent number etc stamping on the top of the barrel as well. Advise him also that .32-20 revolvers have a reputation for barrel bulges due to people firing rounds behind a squib. He can test for that by looking at the outside of the barrel for obvious bulges and by pushing a tight patch down the bore and feeling for a loose spot.
The .32-20 is a great fun cartridge. I use my little 4" Smith and a Browning B53 for light-recoil plinking, small and medium game, training new shooters, etc. I need to get the factory letter on this one to verify whether the cylinder was heat treated, but until then I segregate the sub-16K revolver rounds from those for the rifle. The strong StarLine brass is much more rugged then WW/RP, and the Lee boolit designs as well as storebought 98-130 gr RFs and SWCs all shoot impressively well in both guns. I just wish someone would make a speedloader for the 6-shot K in .32-20.
Ed <><

[RU shooter]

My 1905/4 .32-20 is marked ".32-20 CTG" on the right side of the barrel. There should be miniscule patent number etc stamping on the top of the barrel as well. Advise him also that .32-20 revolvers have a reputation for barrel bulges due to people firing rounds behind a squib. He can test for that by looking at the outside of the barrel for obvious bulges and by pushing a tight patch down the bore and feeling for a loose spot.
The .32-20 is a great fun cartridge. I use my little 4" Smith and a Browning B53 for light-recoil plinking, small and medium game, training new shooters, etc. I need to get the factory letter on this one to verify whether the cylinder was heat treated, but until then I segregate the sub-16K revolver rounds from those for the rifle. The strong StarLine brass is much more rugged then WW/RP, and the Lee boolit designs as well as storebought 98-130 gr RFs and SWCs all shoot impressively well in both guns. I just wish someone would make a speedloader for the 6-shot K in .32-20.
Ed <><

He brought it in after lunch today for me to drool over ! It is indeed a 32-20 and marked as you mention 32-20 ctg. Man oh man is that a pretty revolver . Not a mark on the Nickle finish no wear nothing ! Looks like it was fired very little and sat unused for many years and well cared for before being put up . He did actually find some ammo locally first LGS he called had 5 boxes on the shelves I was shocked it was stocked and at the price 45 bucks a box ! Told him to save the brass . Was a good day got to fondle a nice ole revolver and scored some points with the boss ...... He ask what I thought it was worth . Told him honestly I didn't have a good grasp on older handguns but prob. In the $600 and up range ? . that sound realistic ?

Thanks all for the help , Tim

[gnoahhh]

$Up.

What kind of loads did he find? I wouldn't subject that old revolver to hi speed jacketed loads. Best to stick with soft lead and mild powder charges.

[MT Gianni]

Have him remove the grips and look for an N on the frame. If the grips are numbered to the frame and the N is there it has some real value. If there is a B it was originally a blued gun. Add on grips will not have the matching serial number found on the butt. These are a lot of fun to the shooter but having a factory nickle and matching grips make it draw collector attention.

[RU shooter]

$Up.

What kind of loads did he find? I wouldn't subject that old revolver to hi speed jacketed loads. Best to stick with soft lead and mild powder charges.

I believe he said they had Remington and Winchester both jacketed and also some cowboy type ammo which was the cheapest of the 3 . I told him go with the lead cowboy ammo he said he's not going to be shooting it much so he just bought the "good" ammo ,just shook my head

[leadeye]

Here's a 32-20 oddity, looks like it started out life as a target gun then was cut down and had a "vent rib" added. Might have been a victim of the bulged barrel like Old School Big Bore mentioned.

[Green Frog]

Here's a 32-20 oddity, looks like it started out life as a target gun then was cut down and had a "vent rib" added. Might have been a victim of the bulged barrel like Old School Big Bore mentioned.

This looks like one I’d love to play with... adjustable sights so I could experiment with bullet weights and powder charges and approx 4” bbl for handy carry. What’s not to like?

Froggie