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Thread: 12 ga USH question

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    12 ga USH question

    I have a few USH’s: two in 12 ga and one in 20. My favorite 12 ga USH is one I bought off of here a few years ago. The trigger had some work, breaking around 2.5 lbs.

    I recently went to film a video shooting the Twister slugs for my YOUTUBE channel and 4/5 shots had light primer strikes.

    Then, last week, my son and I went hunting. We had a old mature doe show up. He cocked the hammer back, squeezed the trigger and nothing. It happened again. Needless to say she spooked off, but not before I instinctively drew my .500 SW and put one through her lungs.

    When I got home, I compared the firing pin with my other one which I bought “new, old stock” and only has about 10 rounds through the it.

    The firing pin is considerably shorter than the one in my new USH. Then I read about firing pin erosion in these guns due to some primers, especially the euro stuff. I personally got well over 1,000 slugs down the barrel since I’ve had it, with 90% of those being primed Fiocchi or Cheddite hulls.

    I ordered a firing pin and new firing pin spring. My question is, how hard is it to replace the firing pin? Not a lot of info out there.

    Any info y’all could give will get greatly appreciated. I’ve replaced trigger springs in every pump I own and did a trigger job on my Super Red Hawk. Hoping is along the same lines.


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  2. #2
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Leon: if the firing pins are actually deteriorating from gas erosion or just being peened down, then they are not made from hard enough metal.

    These shouldn't be that hard to duplicate out of O1 or better yet S7 tool steel. Most Firing Pins on modern guns are made from S7 Impact Resistant tool steel.

    I don't know how to R&R the pin but it shouldn't be that hard. Youtube? Don't you work on Jet Airplanes?

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post
    Leon: if the firing pins are actually deteriorating from gas erosion or just being peened down, then they are not made from hard enough metal.

    These shouldn't be that hard to duplicate out of O1 or better yet S7 tool steel. Most Firing Pins on modern guns are made from S7 Impact Resistant tool steel.

    I don't know how to R&R the pin but it shouldn't be that hard. Youtube? Don't you work on Jet Airplanes?

    Randy
    building fighter jets is far more easier. There’s a YouTube vid on how to reassemble a Topper. If I had a schematic, I should be Fine.

    Downloading on now.


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  4. #4
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    I have a print out of doing a trigger job on H&R’s; I’ve used it to replace broken sear on a 20 gauge. I’ll try and find the web link.

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  5. #5
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    Slave pins are a necessity. Mine did that but was attributable to the breakdown button that was about to come loose.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hogtamer View Post
    Slave pins are a necessity. Mine did that but was attributable to the breakdown button that was about to come loose.
    Slave pin for the trigger group?


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  7. #7
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    The way the transfer bar is set up, it is possible to come out of time with a trigger job. Try jerking the trigger fast and see if it helps. If it does, I would have to think the transfer bar isn't coming up far enough when pulling slow.

  8. #8
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    Leon,

    IIRC there 2 pins to remove to drop the trigger group. You only need a slave pin for the larger diameter pin. The pins are driven out from the right side of the frame, they have a head on the left side.

    Your FTF can have many causes. Weak hammer spring, dirty frame internals and bad transfer are prime candidates. I have had probably 50 or 60 hands rifles over the years and never had i short firing pin problem.

    Good luck with your repair.

    BB

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    I had a firing pin break on my 20ga topper.
    I just hammered the pins out, removed the guts and set aside.
    Then turned a new pin out of a grade 8 bolt with a drill and file.
    I made the tip long and measured protrusion with it installed, then shortened to length and rounded the end. That was probably 25 years ago and it's still fine.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    I had a similar problem with my H&R 20 ga USH. The solution was a two stages. First the spring had ever so slightly weakened, so it was replaced. The main problem was the hammer stop on the hammer had to be shortened. With both of these done, never a miss fire again. The hammer stop was shortened by only a few 1/10,000ths of an inch.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by lar45 View Post
    I had a firing pin break on my 20ga topper.
    I just hammered the pins out, removed the guts and set aside.
    Then turned a new pin out of a grade 8 bolt with a drill and file.
    I made the tip long and measured protrusion with it installed, then shortened to length and rounded the end. That was probably 25 years ago and it's still fine.
    Redneck engineering at it's finest! Lars, Junior 1942 (May he rest in peace!) would be so proud of you! And I am too!
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    The way the transfer bar is set up, it is possible to come out of time with a trigger job. Try jerking the trigger fast and see if it helps. If it does, I would have to think the transfer bar isn't coming up far enough when pulling slow.
    Id bet ya that this is your actual Problem. Transfer bar was a constant issue with these guns. Timing or there working as described.

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    I looked at the firing pin with a magnifying glass. It’s definitely marred all to hell. Could be the transfer bar. I’ll research that more.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check