Case forming 219 Donaldson Wasp.

[Spedsterguy]

What is the best way to do this? I have Norma 30-30 case that are new. Any help would be great

[skeettx]

Get one of these

https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/16042

LIGHTLY Lube the case with Imperial Sizing Wax

Run up in the die,
Use a Jewelers Hacksaw to cut off what sticks up

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-6...k-Saw/50208803

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-P...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Done

Mike

p.s. run case up a bit, extract, clean off most of the lube, rotate the case, then run case up a bit, extract, clean off most of the lube, rotate the case, and then run case up all the way and hack off what sticks up.

[Spedsterguy]

Wow thanks I did not know that was even made? Ill get the die on its way. Thanks a million

[screwcutter]

Here is how I make 219 Zippers, sort of the same.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...932-219-Zipper

[Bent Ramrod]

A try at a single pass in one die might cost you a lot of those Norma cases. I would say that you will need all the dies on the catalog page.

Generally one die is used to push the shoulder back. A second one reduces the neck on the part of the case above the new shoulder to .22 caliber, and holds the excess neck for trimming with hacksaw and file. Or, if it doesn’t, you need the file-trim die shown.

Then you full-length size the case in your loading die set and fireform for a final fit in your chamber.

If the neck is now too far down in the .30-30 case, the brass may be too thick to seat a bullet and chamber the cartridge. If so, you will need a neck-turning or inside-reaming setup.

Combining the operations will result in a lot of crushed cases. Some annealing may be needed in the course of the forming steps above.

My weirdo wildcat .22 centerfire is intermediate length between the Wasp and the Zipper; not far enough down the case to need a reaming die. But the cases did give easier chambering when I turned the necks with a Sinclair tool.

[ASSASSIN]

I have shot various 219 Donaldson Wasp rifles over the past 40 years, and have never had to use those expensive form dies, and have never lost a single case in the forming process.

This is where your inexpensive Lee sizing dies come into place.

Get a Lee full length size die in the following:

7mm-08

260 Remington

243 Winchester

22-250

Trim 3/8" to 1/2" off the bottom of each die, then clean up the bottom and inside edge of each die.

Use a couple pieces of brass to set each die to size down the 30-30 brass to the correct amount, and after sizing through the 22-250 size die, trim all cases to length.

Now run all cases through your 219 Donaldson Wasp size die, load and fire-form.

Once all brass has been fire-formed, trim all cases to the same length, match prep your brass, and load as you would any other high performance cartridge.

If case necks need to be turned, turn them before sizing in the 22-250 size die.

The way my chambers are set up, I just take a light clean up pass around the case neck after case forming.

I hope you enjoy your 219 Donaldson Wasp as much as I do, as I think it's one of the best 22 centerfires going! It's definitely not the fastest, but it sure is a good looking cartridge, and one of the most accurate 22 centerfires I have ever shot.

[Three44s]

This is an off the wall suggestion so take it with the grain of salt:

You might want to consider studying the body dimensions of the 32-40 Win case.

The reason I post that is because I was having a dickens of a time forming 25-35 Win out of 30-30 Win and not getting serious oil dimples on the shoulder.

A member here suggested his fix was to use a FL Die for 32-40 Win. (from Lee because it was economical and they still made it). I have not checked lately and did not make the purchase then but I acquired enough correct brass right after that so I put that knowledge on the back burner.

You would remove the recapping rod and expander ball off the 32-40 die so as to reset the body taper but not oversized the neck.

What reminded me of this possible trick is that a poster in the linked to thread uses 25-35 Win cases to form 219 Zipper.

Three44s

[midnight]

Both bentrod and assasin are doing the same thing using different dies. I use the regular RCBS forming dies. The first die leaves the neck at 30 cal & moves the shoulder down close to its final location. The second die necks down to 22 cal without moving the shoulder. The third die is file trim. You will probably need an extended shellholder for file trim. Cut the case off with a fine saw & file off. I leave it a little long so I final trim in a case trimmer. A chamber cast may be necessary to determine case length. My old Martini requires trim to 1.750 but the new EAB barrel requires a longer neck. I trimmed those to 1.804. Run them through the Wasp FL size die to move the shoulder to it's final position. Necks that have endured this much moving should be turned. The Martini has a tight neck & requires turning. Turning will even up neck wall thickness. After all this is done anneal the necks, tumble with citric acid & pins & you are ready to load fireform loads. This will straighten the body taper & form the 30 degree shoulder. Cases are now ready to use. Watch closely for incipient case head separation with a bent paper clip. If your necks are too tight this can easily happen. It happened to me on my first batch of 50. Four cases were cracked halfway around the base & the rest showed stretching when scratched with the paper clip. I turned necks after that. Good luck. You will learn a lot.

Bob