Reloading EverythingWidenersLoad DataTitan Reloading
MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Inline FabricationSnyders Jerky
Lee Precision Repackbox
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Problem with 30 year old brass Forming

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    35

    Problem with 30 year old brass Forming

    Good Morning,

    I have some 225 Winchester brass that was formed to 7mm Merrill about 30 years ago. I am trying to re-form it to 6.5 JDJ. I have annealed the cases using a LP torch spinning with my fingers for about 8 to 12 seconds each then water quenching, but that did not seem to work; still very brittle. I am getting complete neck separation when pulling the brass back through the 6.5 JDJ die (it seems to go up okay with less resistance). I have tried Imperial die wax and homebrew alcohol/lanolin lube to no avail. Should I anneal progressively longer and see if that works? Or is there a point where old brass just won't form due to age. I am not sure how many times this brass has been shot in the past. New 225 Winchester is hard to find and trying to salvage this old brass seems like the thing to do.

    Thanks for your time.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    plains of colorado
    Posts
    3,648
    if you can hold the brass with your hand wile heating it, you aint getting it hot enough.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    GARD72977's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    TUPELO MS
    Posts
    1,733
    30yrs ago it was common to clean brass in corn cob and Brasso. It will make brass brittle over time

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    35
    Thanks Rancher. I will try the spin the brass with a cordless drill in a socket trick and run it a little longer/hotter.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    35
    Hey Gard, I had heard that ammonia will make brass brittle. Hopefully with a little more heat, I can salvage this project.
    Thanks.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    35
    Success!! I annealed the old brass a little longer (16 seconds or so) and no separated or split necks! Before, I was experiencing a 50% failure rate. This time on my 10 case sample 0% failure. Thanks Rancher that seemed to do the trick.

    I appreciate the advice.

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub Magnum Wheel Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    southern Minnesota
    Posts
    36
    What I do, on brittle cases, is put them in a cake pan with water up to 1/2" - 3/4" or so from the work hardened area, heat them from straight over the top, to heat them evenly with a torch, rose bud or as wide a flame as the case, for 15-20 seconds, then tip them over in the pan of water... can do about 25 cases or so at a time, then start over with cold water... had some Hornady 460 S&W cases that were splitting at the case mouth as new, this totally solved the problem, without softening the cases too much to create pressure issues on those high pressure cases

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub redhawk44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    41
    When annealing brass cases, use a shallow pan and fill it with water up to the base of the neck on the brass. put the cases in mouth up, and use a propane torch. Heat the necks one at a time and when they are hot enough, just tip it over in the pan to quench it and continue to the next case etc etc etc. After they have all been annealed and quenched, dry thoroughly and start expanding or expanding whichever.
    RedHawk

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    zarrinvz24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Heart of the Lowcountry, SC
    Posts
    454
    You don’t need to quench the brass. It’s not required. https://bisonballistics.com/articles...rass-annealing

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,887
    Quote Originally Posted by zarrinvz24 View Post
    You don’t need to quench the brass. It’s not required. https://bisonballistics.com/articles...rass-annealing
    You put them in the pan to keep from overheating the base, you tip them over because they’re wet already and it allows you to pick them up without losing your fingerprints.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by zarrinvz24 View Post
    You don’t need to quench the brass. It’s not required. https://bisonballistics.com/articles...rass-annealing
    Quenching the brass stops the heat from traveling any further and does actually give you slightly softer brass....My opinion is based on my own experience and no one else's....

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    NWO sunset country
    Posts
    716
    This wont help but I'm celebrating and read the title and thought to myself 30year old forming brass, wait till yer 60 if ya got trouble now, cant see, cant walk to get another piece to compare, cant remember where it is anyway, a forget it, now I'm all in a dither and my prostrate just fired up gotta go pee.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check