Hand filing is a bit of an art. I found that a bit of practice makes the real job come out much better.
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Hand filing is a bit of an art. I found that a bit of practice makes the real job come out much better.
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Will Rogers 1879 - 1935:
The problem ain't what people know. It's what people know that ain't so that's the problem.
Everybody is ignorant. Only on different subjects.
There are three kinds of men. The ones that learn by readin’. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
use a triangle file and grind or stone one side of it so it wont cut (safe edge file)
use a small engineers square in the bottom of the dovetail to keep it aligned
go slow!!!
this aint hard but it do require patience and care
Ruts, I need to do what you did to your 94 front ramp. When JES rebored it to .38-55, I found that I must load my ammo hotter than I want to for the sights to align. I want my Redfield apeture sight to be bottomed out at 50 yards with original level loads. While I'm at it, I want to change the front sight to a blade instead of a bead.
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Thank you for all the great tip. I should probably try a few practice cuts on an old barrel snd see how it goes.
Save your files some wear and do the first couple on a hard wood dowel. Will give you a good idea if what to do and quicker t see results
Thats why I lowered the ramp and I have ordered a lower front sight yet so I can lower my peep a bit more. The 30 30 bore was ruined and I had it bored to 38 55Originally Posted by Texas by God
Great idea. I’ll try the dowel first.
How do I make a triangle file with a safe side? By that I mean smooth one of the sides of the file so it doesn’t cut the dovetail deeper. I don’t currently have a belt sander.
Buy a standard triangular file and take a dremel or belt sander and take the teeth off one side.
Failing that then there is a long lot of stoning involved.
Brownells sell one but it is atrociously dear.
The belt sander / grinder dremil tool are to aggresive and will change the angle. I use a medium grit stone and a few passes on it holding the files edge flat and down to it with a light oil. You dont need to completely remove the teeth just dull them down so they dont cut. Fine sand paper glued to a flat surface will do it also. This will probably take 10-15 strokes with either.
After a few strokes you will see a line forming across the front of the teeth this is the relief angle and sharp edge being removed. This line should be about .010 wide, it dosnt take a lot. Leaving the grooves a lso allows the file to sit flatter and truer easier.
with some files they arnt flat but a slight radius so fresh teeth come up the length of the stroke.
I’ll give sandpaper a try to knock the teeth down on one side. Great advice from everyone.
Another point to help, When making the safe edge mark it with a small groove near the tang to identify the safe edge. When you sit it down you will know which is which when you come back
I did the safe side business on the grinder wheel - twerent difficult - you just want one side of the three so it wont cut AT ALL - I ground the teeth OFF ........ cuts dovetails fine !
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