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Thread: Lee Handles

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    When I glue them a pull the metal ferules from the handles. mix the JB glue the ferules on then the handles and let cure. when cured I drill and pin riveting the pins ends into a nice smooth rounded head. Gluing the ferules on gives a lot of added support to the handles and reduces splitting

  2. #22
    Banned








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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Or drill and pin them!
    thats what i did to all of mine. Bottom line is if you use them enough the handles will come loose.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I drill and pin mine. I just use a finishing nail trimmed. Then peen it over on both sides to avoid sharp edges. It works for me.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Redhawk0 On the back of my welding table is a can with short ends of brazing rods in it. I dig out 3/32 or 1/16 dia and cut it to length and use it. LOl. I sometimes forget anduse them to short to attach to the new rod, so they get repurposed like this.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    How I do it is pay a little more for the NOE clones and never worry about handles slipping off at inopportune times like Lee handles have for me. Why Lee hasn't addressed this widespread problem is beyond me. I guess they don't need to since people give them plenty of business at their price point.
    "There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something."
    ~Thorin Oakenshield

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Or drill and pin them!
    Thats what I did. Some brazing rob peened over and they’ve never moved since.
    👍🏼

  7. #27
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Attachment 272331 Here ya go. Just drill through the handle as shown and tap the jaws of the handle to 8-32. Then drill the wooden handles 1 size larger and run an 8-32 screw all the way through and finish off the bottom of the screw with a fine file. I forget what size the drill bit is but you can buy the bits and tap as a set for not much $. I have many sets fixed like this and never had one come off or break. Like Lloyd said, if you use them enough they will come off, and it's never at a good time.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master
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    My shooting buddy Dale53 turned me on to this. He has a bunch of Lee moulds and handles and as soon as he gets a new set he drills a 1/16” hole through each ferrule and inserts a roll pin. He cuts and grinds the ends of the pins smooth and never even thinks about those handles again. “Works for me!”

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master
    Shiloh's Avatar
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    I have mine secured with epoxy. Severl kinds over the years. No issues.

    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check