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Thread: CVA Mountain Rifle set triggers

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    85

    CVA Mountain Rifle set triggers

    Just installed a new Percussion lock and set triggers on the CVA. Previous lock and trigger you cocked the hammer then set the back trigger. With this new set up it seems set trigger first then cock rifle, also hammer will slam down on nipple from half cock if trigger is pulled. Any advise on this please.

    Bought the above bits a year or so ago from Deer Creek. Have emailed them about purchasing a spare mainspring but so far no response. I can understand a spring not being worth the bother to them.
    My question now is What mainspring if any sold by TOW or Dixie will fit the CVA Mountain rifle lock?

    Any advise Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    6,134
    Main springs usually can be located on ebay or at least they use to be all day long. As far as trigger setting off the hammer on half cock, the Mountain rifles were inlet too deep. You should be able to solve your problem by shimming out the trigger a little. I just used a washer but some used a little piece of wood like a pop sickle stick. Can't help with the other thing but maybe the shim will help that too.

    Yup they are there but you might want to buy a Traditions main spring instead. They are cheaper and were made by the same company, in fact same exact part #
    Aim small, miss small!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,749
    Quote Originally Posted by Tasbay View Post
    Just installed a new Percussion lock and set triggers on the CVA. Previous lock and trigger you cocked the hammer then set the back trigger. With this new set up it seems set trigger first then cock rifle, also hammer will slam down on nipple from half cock if trigger is pulled. Any advise on this please.

    Bought the above bits a year or so ago from Deer Creek. Have emailed them about purchasing a spare mainspring but so far no response. I can understand a spring not being worth the bother to them.
    My question now is What mainspring if any sold by TOW or Dixie will fit the CVA Mountain rifle lock?

    Any advise Thanks in advance
    If you have to set the trigger before you can cock the hammer - its not set up quite right - the trigger is leaning on the sear bar in the uncocked position - (Mooman76 got it) either shim the trigger plate out or bend the sear bar (need to heat it to do that) - needs some little clearance

    Also have seen a couple of these locks where the half cock notch was broken out

    And some of them (I call long nose sear) will actually bend the nose of the sear - if you go up the top I wrote a fix "My Fix For a trigger on a CVA pistol" -- its a sticky about fifth down - pictures there will show what its supposed to look like and how to fix one thats bent

    Bending the sear (thats the nose of the sear where it engages the tumbler) was a problem with many of these - mainsprings ? have shot a bunch of CVA's for thirty years and never broke a mainspring - did replace one that seemed to have weakened some but it was still working

  4. #4
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    85
    Thanks guys, Have shimmed out the trigger plate by fitting a .223 shell casing over the main screw and shortening till all worked plus a washer under the back of screw plate.
    Interesting that there wasn`t an issue with the original trigger assembly.

    The mainspring on the old lock had weakened when previous owner had it. He had fastened a second spring inside it but it is still a bit weak hence the getting another mainspring to replace it. I noticed the old version was thinner then the one on the new lock.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,675
    Can you Re Temper the existing Mainspring ?
    It isn't that hard to do if it isn't broken or severely rusted.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,749
    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    Can you Re Temper the existing Mainspring ?
    It isn't that hard to do if it isn't broken or severely rusted.
    Up to date I have chickened on tempering springs but reading says the lead pot is ideal temperature to temper at - does that work?

    I used to watch the guy in the engineer shop in town retempering car and truck leaf springs - he used to run a piece of wood (soft pine I think) quick down the flat of the spring and could tell by the sparks coming off when he had temperature right - landrovers and early Toyotas were notorius for squishy springs - when he fixed them they stayed fixed and never broke. Wonder did he teach anybody before he went?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,675
    The lead pot is a simple way of tempering springs.
    If you want, find a new spring.
    Then ,Try to temper the old spring you have.
    That is the "Safe Way" to do things you are not sure about doing things the first time.
    But I have had good success re tempering springs that were not bent or scratched up.
    But you can always experiment on Any Small spring you have laying around just to see that it works.
    Or even try to temper a piece of spring steel that you annealed first.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check