"Butcher Block" Glue

[BudRow]

My sister received a table-top butcher block/cutting board for a wedding gift 50 years ago. It's 12" X 12" and about 2" thick. There are four knob type feet in the corners. It has separated in two due to glue failure. It is made of small maple blocks glued side by side with the end-grain being the cutting surface. My plan is to scuff the mating surfaces then glue and clamp. Of course it will be exposed to water/moisture for short periods of time. What is the best type of glue should I use? Thanx, Bud

[Winger Ed.]

I'm a big fan of the clear, 2 part epoxies.
For that, I'd use the slow set kind so it can soak in and get a better 'bite'.

For actual use, I've moved away from the wooden cutting boards to a 1/2" thick nylon one.

Its dishwasher safe, and there's little chance of bacteria growth and cross contamination from cutting raw meat,
then vegetables with a just quick hand wash & rinse in between.

[country gent]

I use a lot of the gorilla glue when the foaming out wont be an issue. There are some that are now rated as waterproof and dont foam. If possible I would try to sans down to fairly fresh wood in the joints. This allows the new glue to penetrate deeper in the wood. Wax paper is your friend here also. a flat surface covered with a layer of wax paper will allow he block to be glued and then the paper removed when cured. You might consider mixing a small amount of grit or sawdust into the glue to make a glue thickness bond so when clamping all the glue isnt pushed out of the joint.fine sand,sawdust, chips will hold the parts apart maintaining bond thickness when clamped tight.

[Mal Paso]

Titebond 2

[DDriller]

As Mal Paso said Titebond 2

[poppy42]

I’m a big fan of gorilla glue tape water activated Apoxsee‘s but not in a situation due to the expansion. The way to go is a waterproof white glue. as others have said titebond 2 is an excellent choice ( yes I know it’s really yellow but it’s considered a white glue) and in my opinion that’s what you should use. Just make sure you have everything dry fit and your clamps ready to go before you start gluing.

[Jsm180]

I use West Systems epoxy if I need a waterproof and strong bond. It was developed for the marine industry for both fiberglass and wood. I use it in antique aircraft restoration. https://www.westsystem.com/

[Wayne Smith]

Tightbond 2 or 3 - 3 is proof to soaking wetting while 2 may fail when immersed in water.

[Conditor22]

Gorilla wood glue is designed for indoor and outdoor use.

I just repaired a broken stock with it to tie a friend through until he can buy what he wants--- works great.

[Plate plinker]

Agree

Titebond 2

[Jniedbalski]

Titebond 2 works great no need for the expensive stuff

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

For a repair, I'd use Gorilla glue.

[Daver7]

I've always used Titebond III for cutting boards

[smithnframe]

I'd use Franklin wood glue. I don't know if National Casein is still in business.

[Mk42gunner]

Since it was made at least fifty years ago it was probably built with either hide glue or a common wood glue. I would use the one of the tightbond glues, no need to get fancy.

You may also need to plane or at least sand the surface, depending on just how good your clamping/ gluing techniques are.

We made quite a few in woodshop class in the late 70's with whatever glue the school bought and used vegetable cooking oil as the finish.

Robert

[porthos]

i would use Titebond 3. but, first, after prepping; i i would thin it with about 20 % water so that it will penetrate into the cracks. keep slopping it on for a few minutes. then go with unthinned. it to will wick into the cracks so keep at it.

[leadeye]

Titebond should do well, I've used the West stuff on a wood boat and it's an excellent adhesive/sealer, but probably over the top for what you want.

[tomme boy]

Drill a bunch of small holes on each face and epoxy it. Epoxy actually will soak into wood. It will be the strongest bond you can make. Here is a tip before you use the epoxy if you go that route. Brush on a thin layer and let it start to set up. Get the slowest cure you can. Once it starts to get thick and setting, mix up some more and coat each surface. Now is the important part. Do not clamp tightly. Just enough to hold it together. Let it sit a day and then sand off the excess that came out.

[Evoken]

If this is a cutting board that actually gets used DO NOT USE EPOXY. It is poison for goodness sake. Read the msds sheets on some epoxies, not good stuff. Now they do make some that are good for food prep areas, but I still don't trust them.
Like others have said, stick with the tried and true white glue. Titebond 3 is an excellent product and if done right the block will last another 50 years before it needs glued again.

[dale2242]

It`s funny that this thread would show up now as I just had to glue my cutting board back together.
Mine is made from bowling alley lanes.
I used Titebond. I don't know if it was 2 or. 3, but it was waterproof.
I ran the edges through the jointer to get to fresh wood.
It`s held up through the cutting of 8 deer this season.