Snyders JerkyWidenersLoad DataReloading Everything
RepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee PrecisionInline Fabrication
Titan Reloading RotoMetals2
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: Marlin 336 Hammer strike issue

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Eastern NC
    Posts
    84

    Marlin 336 Hammer strike issue

    I have a Marlin 336 that I've owned for a very long time - more than 30 years. Recently it won't go boom. If I re-cock the hammer and let the firing pin hit the primer 2 or 3 times then it'll fire. I reload and it's not an ammo problem, ammo goes off fine in other lever actions. Not sure what to replace, front or rear firing pin, or firing pin spring. Could replace everything but that's getting a little pricey, especially if it doesn't solve the problem. Also on the Numrich site there are a number of Marlin 336 models. Am I safe in assuming the bolts are the same for all.

    Tried calling Marlin/Remington but the repair shop is closed and doesn't seem possible to even speak to a real person. Maybe all dead from Covid-19?

  2. #2
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    I'd take the bolt out and clean everything, especially the firing pin real well before I started shopping for parts.

    As I remember: Take out the lever pivot screw, drop out the lever, and the bolt will slide out the back.
    Make sure the little ejector 'thingy' and its spring is in its slot when ya put the bolt & lever back in.

    Over time, the factory oil/grease in it will get stiff & gummy, slowing down the firing pin strike.
    The colder it is, and the more dust & dirt that has gotten inside the bolt, the worse the effect.

    After you clean it well, try it then.
    If ya can't get to the range, fire a couple of empty but primed cases into a old fluffed up towel.
    It'll tell you if that was all it needed.

    Being old, but low mileage--- I wouldn't think anything inside is broken.
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 11-15-2020 at 01:58 AM.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Switzerland of Ohio
    Posts
    6,332
    What Ed said. ^^^^^^ I've had this happen in one of mine. In my case I didn't even dismantle the bolt, just blasted Brakleen through the firing pin hole. Field expedient, of necessity. Got home and did the same treatment with WD-40. I never did dismantle the bolt. That was over ten years ago. Rifle still works fine.
    Cognitive Dissident

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE WV
    Posts
    6,254
    With the action closed and the hammer cocked, push on the back of the firing pin. Does it move easily or drag? This will help you know where to look.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master


    missionary5155's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Temporarily near Orlando FL
    Posts
    7,133
    One very cold morning our 336 32 Win Special did that... Whatever water pump grease had been used had froze solid.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy

    oconeedan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Lake Oconee Ga
    Posts
    323
    I had one of my leverguns do this at a bad time, aiming at a big buck. It was an 1895 but same problem. There is a little spring that pushes the rear section of firing pin out of alignment with the front section, until the lever is completely closed. This is a 2 piece firing pin, and has caused some problems for some.
    I think the friction of the spring, and 2 piece firing pin, is enough to give light firing pin strikes, ESPECIALLY if it is dirty, or if cold and the oil you are using thickens.
    My fix, I removed that little spring . Do this at your own risk, this is modifying a safety. For me, the 2 piece pin falls out of place without the help of a spring, unless I am hanging upside down shooting. Plus, I am never rapid firing to the point I am concerned that the lever is fully closed and bolt in battery, if the lever is not closed I am not pulling the trigger.
    The other fix is to buy a one piece firing pin, do a search online. Your other safety functions still work , such as half cock.
    I guess two other fixes , you could leave the spring in place but bend it so it is weaker, or you could put in a stronger hammer spring, which is going to increase your trigger pull weight.
    Dan

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Franklin, TN
    Posts
    1,657
    Most likely the hammer spring has gotten weak over time. The early ones even had a couple of adjustment notches where you could increase the spring tension. Remove the buttstock and look under the wrist. If you have trouble finding a replacement spring you can always place a washer or two between the end of the spring and the vertical bar which it rides against. Usually one washer will increase the power of the spring enough to be reliable. Cleaning all the other bolt components is certainly a good idea but I think you'll find the spring to be your issue.
    Good Luck,
    Rick
    Last edited by RickinTN; 11-15-2020 at 11:25 AM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Franklin, TN
    Posts
    1,657
    I should have mentioned also....If your rifle is an early enough version the upper side, or inside of the lower tang will be notched as an adjustment for hammer spring compression. If it is not already in the forward most notch move it there and it should correct your issue.
    Rick

  9. #9
    Banned
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    1,029
    I had this happen on my 336. I removed the bolt and removed the firing pin from the bolt itself. Cleaned and lubed very well. I also replaced the hammer spring on re-assembly since I keep spares. I considered it cheap insurance. So far so good.

    I also had it happen on my JM 1894. I figured I would do the same thing to it that I had done to my 336. When I removed the firing pin from the bolt my two piece firing pin had become a four piece firing pin. It had broken both halves. You just don't know what you are going to find.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	broken firing pin.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	85.5 KB 
ID:	271454

    Best of luck,

    Steve in N CA
    Last edited by sghart3578; 11-15-2020 at 11:56 AM.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    220
    A one piece firing pin would help: http://www.pioneergunworks.com/marlin-rifle-parts

  11. #11
    Banned
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    1,029
    Quote Originally Posted by rjathon View Post
    A one piece firing pin would help: http://www.pioneergunworks.com/marlin-rifle-parts

    A lot of guys use them and I tried one once. I saw no appreciable difference. And I like the safety factor of the two piece firing pin.

    Steve in N CA

  12. #12
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Eastern NC
    Posts
    84
    I forgot to mention I put the bolt in my ultrasonic cleaning tank and afterwords lubricated it with Ballistol. I was hoping that would remove any hard grease. I'm to take a look at the Hammer spring (thanks RickinTM) and if that doesn't work I'll dissemble the bolt.

  13. #13
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    Quote Originally Posted by BeemerMark View Post
    I'll dissemble the bolt.
    I'd encourage it.

    Ultra sonics are great, but tooth brushes and Q tips are better for getting inside stuff cleaned out.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Prairie Cowboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    236
    It's unlikely that the hammer spring in your 336 has weakened.
    I own a 1969 JM Marlin 336 and the hammer spring in it has the same tension as my newer Remington-made rifles, even after 50 years. You could compare your hammer tension to a newer Marlin to find out.

    It probably is a good idea to disassemble the bolt to inspect the firing pin for breakage or burrs and to clean out the firing pin channel thoroughly.
    Last edited by Prairie Cowboy; 11-17-2020 at 04:50 PM.

  15. #15
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Eastern NC
    Posts
    84
    I'm fairly certain I know how to disassemble the bolt but I've found youtube videos great to make sure I'm doing it the right way. I watched a lot of videos on "complete" disassembly but I've yet to fins one that takes the bolt apart. Any help here?

  16. #16
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    Quote Originally Posted by BeemerMark View Post
    I've yet to fins one that takes the bolt apart. Any help here?
    If you're not confident with taking it apart- soak it in a solvent awhile, and get a spray can of brake cleaner or carberator spray.
    Soak it, then blast the spray through it.

    As the bolt is wet with solvent- 'wiggle and giggle' the firing pin through its travel many, many times.
    Then blast it some more with the spray.
    That will loosen and break up the factory grease.

    You'll know when the firing pin is all freed and limbered up.

    And watch the little V spring looking ejector when ya put the bolt back in.
    It really wants to jump out of its slot before the bolt slides past and traps it.
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 11-24-2020 at 04:13 AM.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    681
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP4xZd84XPM
    Don't shortsheet getting the bolt cleaned out.....doesn't work well without complete disassembly so you can get all the crud out of the firing pin channel. And it isn't actually hard to do once you get into it.
    An old Cherokee was teaching his grandson about life. "Inside me two wolves fight," he told the boy.
    "One is evil - he is anger, envy, greed, arrogance, self-pity, resentment, lies, false pride, and ego. The other is good - he is joy, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, generosity, truth and faith. The same fight is inside you - and every other person, too."
    The grandson thought for a minute and asked,"Which wolf will win?"
    The old Cherokee replied, "The one you feed."

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    5,263
    Quote Originally Posted by BeemerMark View Post

    I'm fairly certain I know how to disassemble the bolt but I've found youtube videos great to make sure I'm doing it the right way.

    I watched a lot of videos on "complete" disassembly but I've yet to fins one that takes the bolt apart.

    Any help here?

    Here ya go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez-MPb_3-v8


    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  19. #19
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Eastern NC
    Posts
    84
    Thanks guys. I've dissembled enough guns in 40+ year to feel somewhat confident. But it's good to watch a video for in gotcha's.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy dakota's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    North East - South Dakota
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by RickinTN View Post
    Most likely the hammer spring has gotten weak over time. The early ones even had a couple of adjustment notches where you could increase the spring tension. Remove the buttstock and look under the wrist. If you have trouble finding a replacement spring you can always place a washer or two between the end of the spring and the vertical bar which it rides against. Usually one washer will increase the power of the spring enough to be reliable. Cleaning all the other bolt components is certainly a good idea but I think you'll find the spring to be your issue.
    Good Luck,
    Rick
    Thanks. I had not shot my waffle top in many years. I took it out this afternoon and every third round failed to fire - re-cocked and it would fire, sometimes on the third try. The action was whistle clean! I dropped a couple of drops of Kroil on the firing pin, just in case, but it seemed to move fine.
    I did just as you said, and I moved the spring up a notch - not easily done. I'll shoot it again tomorrow. It added 3 lb to the trigger pull but going off every time is important!


    As it turned out. There must be a broken firing pin. I took it out and the first miss-fire I looked at the primer. Only a faint indent. The rest of the primers had a good solid hit.
    Last edited by dakota; 09-17-2022 at 03:21 PM.

    USMC E-5 69-72
    Paypal is an anti-2nd amendment organization

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check