Titan ReloadingRepackboxLee PrecisionADvertise here
RotoMetals2Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters Supply

Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Taking out the cartridge guides on an 1894 Winchester

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    596

    Taking out the cartridge guides on an 1894 Winchester

    I have to replace the cartridge guides on an older 1894 Winchester. The problem is that the screws are on the INSIDE and they have to be taken out that way, does anyone know how to remove those or how to get to them? Is there a tool that is used for it?
    Whatever cannot be remedied, must be endured.

  2. #2
    Moderator


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    4,603
    They're held in by a tiny screw each, so you need a small screwdriver. There's no way to get at them without stripping the receiver of the bolt, lever, lifter, etc. They're the last item to be removed in disassembly, and the first to be put back in.

    I'm curious-- why do you have to replace them?

    DG

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,725
    The screws are on the outside of the receiver. Right side it's just above the loading gate.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Hick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Winnemucca, NV
    Posts
    1,075
    Pre-64 the screws are on the inside, post-64 on the outside. For my pre-64 I took an old screwdriver and bent the tip 90 degrees (heat the spot for the bend with a torch). With the 90 degree corner screwdriver the removal is easy.
    Hick: Iron sights!

  5. #5
    Moderator


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    4,603
    Quote Originally Posted by Hick View Post
    Pre-64 the screws are on the inside, post-64 on the outside. For my pre-64 I took an old screwdriver and bent the tip 90 degrees (heat the spot for the bend with a torch). With the 90 degree corner screwdriver the removal is easy.
    There you go. Probably the best, comprehensive answer. Once you've take apart a hundred or so it just isn't that difficult to do, but I never made a special screwdriver. I used to reblue them, and there was almost never a time when I didn't have one in pieces on the workbench. Had to strip them all the way down.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IM006585.jpg 
Views:	70 
Size:	32.8 KB 
ID:	271432
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IM006584.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	29.5 KB 
ID:	271431  
    Last edited by Der Gebirgsjager; 11-14-2020 at 07:46 PM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Southern Arizona
    Posts
    3,649
    When I removed the guides from a 94, I used a hex magnetic screwdriver bit and one of those stamped-out small box wrenches that used to be given away in sets as promotional items. A small piece of wood wedged in the opposite side of the receiver held the hex bit straight and tight in the screwdriver slot, but could compress enough so the screws could be loosened a few turns with the box wrench. Then the wood could be removed and the bit held straight with my finger, and the wrench and bit removed the screw the rest of the way.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    4,355
    .

    Use an $8 offset screwdriver (google)


    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  8. #8
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    11,112
    A chapman driver like is used on a Lyman or RCBS lube sizer will hold a 1/4" bit base. I would tape it in and try that.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,725
    The research I done after I opened my big mouth shows many folks making a short driver bit to use with the Chapman handle.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    117
    I'm cheap, and frankly, just needed to tighten the ones that were loose.

    I grabbed a couple of scrap 2" galvanized nails, bent the heads over, and filed them slightly. Worked just fine. If I was going to do it on a regular basis I'd use real tools, but for what I needed, the nails worked just fine.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Albuquerque, Nuevo Mexico
    Posts
    5,008
    That works. I grind them out of little allen wrenches. Already bent and made from good metal.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    228
    Take out the loading gate.
    Go in through the now empty loading gate opening and access the left cartridge guide screw and remove it.
    A slender long straight screw driver is all that is needed. You will be working at a slight angle onto the guide screw but there's plenty of room to remove the screw.

    Once the left guide is out, use the empty left side guide screw hole to go thru with the same screw driver and directly engage the right side guide screw inside and remove.

    Replace the same way.

    This is how it was always done at the factory during assembly and repair.
    No playing around with tiny off-set screw drivers though that is another way to get it done.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Albuquerque, Nuevo Mexico
    Posts
    5,008
    Quote Originally Posted by 2152hq View Post
    Take out the loading gate.
    Go in through the now empty loading gate opening and access the left cartridge guide screw and remove it.
    A slender long straight screw driver is all that is needed. You will be working at a slight angle onto the guide screw but there's plenty of room to remove the screw.

    Once the left guide is out, use the empty left side guide screw hole to go thru with the same screw driver and directly engage the right side guide screw inside and remove.

    Replace the same way.

    This is how it was always done at the factory during assembly and repair.
    No playing around with tiny off-set screw drivers though that is another way to get it done.
    Great tip! I'll remember that.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    2,232
    Quote Originally Posted by 2152hq View Post
    Take out the loading gate.
    Go in through the now empty loading gate opening and access the left cartridge guide screw and remove it.
    A slender long straight screw driver is all that is needed. You will be working at a slight angle onto the guide screw but there's plenty of room to remove the screw.

    Once the left guide is out, use the empty left side guide screw hole to go thru with the same screw driver and directly engage the right side guide screw inside and remove.

    Replace the same way.

    This is how it was always done at the factory during assembly and repair.
    No playing around with tiny off-set screw drivers though that is another way to get it done.
    That's the way I do it.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    2,191
    I’ve got a Chapman but I have a 4 piece set of hardened hollow ground offset screw drivers.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check