Swivel stud with machine threads

[Bazoo]

I am working on my winchester 94, putting a swivel stud on the rear band. Well after some study I have a couple plans of attack.

So I have a question, which swivel stud has the threads closest to the head? I need them all the way, or as close as I can get it.

I'm going to drill my band and thread it. Then loctite the stud in, grind the shaft off and peen it in place. I'm not decided exactly on how in going to peen it. I'll have to figure it out when time comes.

If I can't get the stud as close as I want it, I'll shim it out with a brass washer I think.

I don't have a machine shop, but I have some gumption and a lot of ability and I think I can handle this to satisfaction.

Opinions and suggestions are welcome.

I don't want that mag tube band setup, tried it already and didn't like it.

[Mk42gunner]

You may have to get a threading die and run it onto the stud backwards to get threads as close as possible to the base of the stud. IIRC they are normally 10-32.

As for peening, look at the design of a 1911 front sight staking tool.

Good Luck, there isn't a whole lot of thickness for threads on most barrel bands.

Robert

[Bazoo]

I was figuring that very thing Robert, bout using the die.

I can't remember what a 1911 sight staking tool looks like, but I've seen one. I am thinking if I cut it to length and then grind a shallow groove with my dremel I should be able to move some material left and right and spread the shaft in a manner it'll hold fast.

[RU shooter]

If you could counter sink the back side of that hole even slightly and then peen the stud over it will help greatly

[Texas by God]

I saw some 1/4" shaft machine thread studs meant for float tube forends (AR15) that might work for you. CDNN has them on their site under AR15 Parts.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[Bazoo]

Thanks TbG. Will check it out.

[bdicki]

I think I have some but I'm working in northern Vermont this week and next week. If you can wait until I get back to Florida the week of Thanksgiving I'll send you one.

[Bazoo]

I think I have some but I'm working in northern Vermont this week and next week. If you can wait until I get back to Florida the week of Thanksgiving I'll send you one.

I'm right patient. If what you have fits my needs id be obliged.

I bought a pack of grovetec swivels last order to midway but turns out the threads stop short of the head a smidge, and the shaft gets skinny there too so I can't thread them up further. Ats why I'm asking here, hoping for a suggestion that I can be sure works before it nickel and dimes me to death.

[country gent]

Another trick that may help is when the stud is fit and timed in place drill a small shallow hole in the end and use a center punch to expand it out then a ball to roll it over. A little heat will help it form over. A small brass ring under the head and solder may increase the grip also.

[Bazoo]

Thanks for the ideas CG, I had not thought of soldering it. Im not familiar with soldering, can you offer me some details? I have seen someone braise with I think bronze rod. I can stick weld.

Been thinking, I could fit a piece of brass between the stud and the band, but I don't know how close I can get it.

[country gent]

Bazoo. the insert could be made with a small tenon the thickness of the band and maybe 1/4" longer. drilled and tapped for the stud. This would give ample threads for it. Soldered in and peened over would make a solid joint. Soldering isnt hard good clean metal in the joints flux and heat when you touch the solder to the joint it wicks in and bonds filling any and all gaps. I would probably use silver solder or braise but this is above what most propane tourches are capable of. When done and fitted together you may be able to drill and pin it in place with a .060 wire pin thru the collar and stud. taking stress away from the peened joint inside.

I would clean the parts of bluing and tarnish by sanding with clean sandpaper. then accetone and a fine brush. Lightly flux and assemble . heat and touch solder to inside of joint. Watch as it flows into joint and allow to cool. when cooled clean flux and polish. The actual solder joint wont reblue so the closer you have it fitted the better.

If you had access to a tig welder the sling mount could be fitted and welded in place, forming a radius in the joint and blending to look like one piece. This way the entire joint would blue and not show.

[Bazoo]

So, the same thing as soldering copper pipe? I've done that, forgot about it it's been so long now. I don't know I'm going to think on it some.

Threading the band and peening the shaft seems simplest in my mind.

I'm thinking about a brass spacer but mostly to clear a threadless space, I hadn't considered making it for strength. I haven't decided for sure either.

One thing is I can leave the peened stud area proud some and relieve the forearm to get it to fit. I haven't decided for sure. I'm planning on refinishing the forearm at some point anyways because I want to fit it better to the receiver, the stock too.

I'd rather not have to have the band reblued.

Tig welding probably ain't an option for me.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to ponder them.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I hope I'm reading and understanding correctly. Uncle Mike's makes detachable swivel studs that are threaded full length. You can cut them off to any length you desire. Below is a photo of a Lee Enfield that I just finished up, and I used one of these long studs to pass through the fore end and into the inner band to serve the dual purposes of providing a swivel and anchoring the fore end.

As a retired gunsmith, over the years I saw many examples of what you are proposing--drilling and taping the barrel band for a swivel. The idea has some merit, but as barrel bands are relatively thin you'll only get a few threads and over time they tend to strip out as the sling is going jerk, jerk, jerk on the swivel as you walk along. On some rifles I've seen it work satisfactory over the long haul if a nut of some sort was soldered on the inside of the band, providing more threads and strength-- but I haven't seen that on a lever action because of the magazine tube. I'd suggest that you go with one of the Uncle Mike's or similar ring-type swivel stud bands that attaches to the magazine tube. They used to come two ways, half rings and a solid ring. The first kind is very available, but I haven't seen the solid ring for a while.
It involved disassembly of the front end of the rifle and sliding it over the tube, then reassembling. The half rings install easily with just an Allen wrench.

[remy3424]

Uncle Mikes makes/made a swivel stud for the Mossburg 500 that threaded into the magazine cover. Der has a good point, might have to add some material to the inside of the band if possible.

[bdicki]

I'm back, but sling stud is not how I remembered it. If you think one would work then I'll get it to you. If the shaft gets smaller at the end and if it's the size of the root of the thread it will go inside and fit flush. Try it on a nut, if it doesn't go far enough you can run it on a drill and file the end until it's the diameter of the root and it will screw right in. You might need to use a shim to index the hole.

[Texas by God]

Bazoo, I’ll make a small suggestion here. Get an extra rear band to experiment on, and keep your original band original. Just a thought born from experience of changing things.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

The long threaded swivel stud as show above (post #15) is exactly what I used on the Lee Enfield in post #13. It can be cut off to any length desired.

[Drm50]

I have done this a dozen times on both Win 94 and Marlins. I use the machine threaded stud. I think 10/32 threads. I do drill end and put slight peen on it. I’ve got Marlin 30/30 that has been carried extensively since 60s and still holding fine. It’s not a big deal. I see some coming lose that were drilled with hand drill and questionable bit. If hole and threads aren’t true it will come lose and need silvered. Cant vouch for newer model guns that don’t have steel barrel bands. Some of the cast metals don’t hold up.

[dtknowles]

I don't know where you could find one but I have a TC New Englander Muzzleloader that has a sling swivel stud threaded into the thimble for the ramrod. The thimble is not much thicker than a barrel band. It has not seen any hard use but it has not pulled out. I don't know how they got it to clock properly. I guess it could be done like setting the headspace on a barrel. You just releave the shoulder until the stud is clocked properly. Remove and reinstall with lock tight.

Tim

[dtknowles]

Another idea, what if you just drill a clearance hole in the band and have the stud screw into a threaded insert in the forearm.

Tim