Everyone has the clone and non the real thing. The clone is not the same from reading this board.
Everyone has the clone and non the real thing. The clone is not the same from reading this board.
Yes I’ll be shooting these out of smooth bore . And yes I make the aluminum spacer cards I make all my shot cards nitro overshot all of them
Porta, can you detail how you are punching those aluminum cards please?
"We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"
unknown
Sure .... on the cards I have advantage over ever one . I am a precision sheet metal fabricator for my job and I run a Cnc turret punch and I can make thousands in just a few min I also punch the nitro cards out of pressboard and my machine will also punch that material also.
"We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"
unknown
How thick do you make your aluminum cards? I’ve made dies for my forging press to do the same job but with steel.
Ill add that Ive noticed a bit of bulging trying the 12s3 wads in fiocchi high brass game hulls I had..None of the hulls showed that with the waa12f114 CB wads. Im thinking maybe the inside of the 12s3 wad has some taper or slope to it and when I add the card its flaring out the wad???
Last edited by Kylongrifle; 11-17-2020 at 12:03 AM.
Yes, the 12S3 wad petals are thicker than the AAF114's and they taper from mouth to base. I like the 12S3 but wouldn't choose it in this application. The WW AA12R or it's clone, or the AA12 or it's clone have shown themselves to be good choices. My last purchase of Claybuster AA12 clones have petals that are 0.010" thicker than WW AA12's so be careful if you switch wads, clones are sometimes not true clones.
"We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"
unknown
Greetings, I would not touch the clones with a 10 feet pole.
Your weakest link in the load is the strongest link, why put in all that effort if you will use clones.
Cooking your own load is an art, " load them with pride to do justice to accuracy "
Best regards,
Ajay K. Madan
Super Blazing Sabots
I load the Lyman 525 slug (actually weighs about 506 grains) for use in both my rifled 500, and my Mossberg made rifled 870 barrels. I have tried a number of wad combinations, but the best one is as follows:
Cheddite 2 3/4” with CH 209 primer. Fed 209A also works great.
34.0 gr. longshot
X12X + 1/4” FC + 1/8” card wad + 12S4 SC + .135” 16 ga. card wad in the bottom of the shot cup.
I also have also used a 3/8” hard waxed card in lieu of the 1/4” FC and 1/8” card.
The OD of the SC with slug is 0.732”.
From a bench I get 1 1/2” to 2” groups at 50 yards. I have never shot groups at 100 yards with them, but they have no problem hitting deer at 100 yards.
I cut the SC off the original wad.
I have also tried hot glue in the base, but it didn’t make any difference at 50 yards.
Correct. Another thing I do is use a pliers ( the center rounded portion) to create small “ notches” around the base of the slug in order to increase friction between the slug and wad. I insert the base plug in the slug while doing this to avoid distorting the base. I don’t know if it helps, but I am very happy with the accuracy.
Last edited by Mike Robinson; 11-19-2020 at 09:00 PM.
I haven't been on this site for years but this was my goto 2 3/4 load when I use my 12ga ush theres also a good 3 inch that I use. Do a search of my screen name guys name was Peter had some impressive groups
I've shot this slug for quite a few years out of a 12g ultra slug hunter
2 3/4 federal gold medal hull
federal 12s4 wad
win 209 primer
45 grains blue dot
Back fill the slug cavity flush with hot melt glue this keep the wad from pushing up the backside and take a file and lay the slug on it side and knurl the edges this will grip the wad a little better for spin. this load will stay on a 3 inch dot at 100 yards. The only problem that I have is with plastic fouling after about 6 or 7 shot that starts to effect accuracy. These slug just hammer deer on a good chest shot it usually bang flop.
Justin aka Illinideer
Retired Smsgt IL ANG 183 FW
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |