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Thread: depriming tool

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
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    Dec 2010
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    Alberta
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    25
    What they said. Pics. And or plans.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy 2A-Jay's Avatar
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    Sep 2019
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    Long Beach WA
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    I have been using my FA depriming tool for several years, Bought it at Cabela's in Lacy WA for $19 + sales tax. I have used it to process thousands of cases since then. The only problem for my old hands are Military Crimped Primers (don't get those very often any more. I would recommend one of these to any one.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Northwest Ohio
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    Here is a cut and parts list for the deprimming tool.

    Copper tubbing 1" or 3/4" ( what fits your hand best)
    1pc 4 1/2" long main body
    1pc 4" long handle/lever
    1 pc 1 1/4" long go between tube
    1 pc 2 3/8" long this will be split and used to make the lever for the handle
    2 pcs 1 1/4" long these will be split and used for the handle plug and body plug
    1 elbow this will be cut down to form the anvil into the handle
    1 connector this will be shortened on one end and a hole formed in it thru the body for the above anvil
    1 ea 3/8 washer brass. this will be fitted and soldered into the anvil to push against
    1 pc 3/16" round stock 1" long this is the pivot pin for the handle
    1 pc 3/16" round stock 3/8" long this is the pivot pin for the deprimming rods mount
    1pc 3/16" by 1/2" flat stock 3/4" long this is the mount block for the deprimme rod.

    Cut body tube solder the connector on one end. cut o[en end to 1/2" insert and solder the 1" tube in. Use a piece of angle iron to scribe a straight line down center length of body tube. Lay out a hole mid point of connector and a 5 /16 x 1 1/4" slot in open end on center with the hole. cut the slot with a hacksaw and file clean. drill the hole and open it to fit the small end of elbow. Rough cut this end to length close to connector tube thickness. On other end of elbow cut the large end at and angle from inside shoulder +.090 to out side edge + .090 this leaves a nice ledge for case to rest on and easy insertion. File outside of washer to fit snuggly into elbow. Split the 3 short tubes length wise and work out to flat stock. The 2 1 1/4 will be made into disks to fit the inside of the tube. one will be soldered in body just ahead of the slot. the other in the back of the handle lever. The last tube for the handle gets a angled cut lengthwise 2 5/8" long 1/4" from front edge to 5/8" from same edge then a straight cut to remove it. Save this piece it will be fitted and soldered in to stiffen handle lever. On center in the underside of lever cut a 3/8" slot thru lever and handle stiffener 1" long. Now with the last piece of flat stock form the lever this will be a c shape 5/16" thick roughly 2" long 1" wide at the top and 1/2" wide at bottom with a square back solid edge. A 3/16" hole thru 1/2" end on center makes the pivot point. a 2 3/16 hole 1 1/4 center to center above is the rods pivot
    Each assembly Body and lever need to be fully assembled when soldered. The disk in the handle keeps spent primers out of the mechanism. Pipe caps can have slots cut to cover contain pins sliding over. a pipe cap can have a slot cut to cover back of handle ( easier than the disk and helps hold the assembly together.A pipe cap for the cover on the extended end. I used a propane torch and soft solder on the first couple with fine results last one was silver solder but I dont think the added strength is needed. Though the silver solder is a nicer finish

    Polish and deburr all your parts as cut and unpackaged makes soldering and finishing it after easier. Have the body assembled and aligned all joints fluxed when soldering. Same with handle/lever. Make the deprimming rod to fit when assembled. With these dimensions above the tool will work on a case 3 1/4" long or so but only require 1/4" stroke to deprime.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Im going to make 3 of these decappers for friends for Christmas. Im thinking making 4. The 4th I will start by sending to Green frog to test and try. He can evaluate it and then pass it along. As it goes around those that want can copy it. All materials that can be purchased at the local hardware, menards, lowes, home depot. Can be done with a benzomatic torch, hand drill, hacksaw, files, pipe cutter, and tin snips. Actually I think you could for go the torch and solder and epoxy it together even. Im thinking it will fit in a flat rate usps box that normally ships for around $7.00.

    In reality it isnt much more making 3 or making 4. The 4th one will be a donation to the membership to try and then if they like it copy.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Central VA
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    3,697
    Sounds good, CG. I’m having a hard time visualizing how it works from the pix and description, but I’m sure it’s just me. Having the actual tool in hand to try out and then going back to look at how it was built would probably be best. Drop me a PM with your snail mail address and I’ll pay the shipping, then perhaps we can formulate a list of users to forward it to next.

    Regards,
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Its use is pretty simple open tool just enough to slide case onto decaping rod nad make sure oin is in the flash hle lower down and squeeze to push primer out. It drops down thru into the handle tube.

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Alberta
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    25
    Hey Country Gent

    Since I'm out of country, is there any way I could convince you to do a build and use video and post it to youtube or send as a file, or whatever?

    Thanks

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I would love to but unfortunatly Im not that good with computers... What I can do is if you pm me your e-mail I can send you bill of materials and step by step instructions. Or can work with you on the phone when you get in a bind.

  9. #29
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    West central NH
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    23
    I just run the decaping pin all the way out of the die in a single stage press and slowly engage the primer, never had a live primer detonate in 35 years and many thousands of cartridge's. And i didn`t have buy another tool, money saved for another gun!

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Iron brew, if you can’t get what you need from country gent’s description, the plan is for him to send one around to members of our merry band for testing and evaluation, starting with me. I plan to take a few pics to add to the discussion.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    543
    I used to use a nut, a nail and a hammer to decap cases before I even knew anything about store bought reloading tools.
    Back then there wasn't any internet or computers.
    As far as I knew I invented reloading, used roll caps the remake primers, trimmed the excess paper of the caps and used them for the powder.
    The slugs I picked up at the cop range where they hit the hillside.

    The surprising thing is I still have all my fingers.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy

    hpbear101's Avatar
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    I have been following this thread and debating whether or not I should post my deprimer that I made I made this many years ago when I had a bunch of kids at home and couldn't afford much. I had seen a picture of a decapper in a magazine so I made one out of what I had on hand. This one is kind of deluxe, the only metal rod I could find was half of a nut cracker, add to that a couple nails, a RCBS depriming pin, and a piece of tubing and I had a deprimer. It actually works very well on rimmed cases so I never even thought of replacing it, I use it on a wide variety of cartridges and and it even has a primer pocket cleaner on the end of the lever.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tom
    Last edited by hpbear101; 11-21-2020 at 10:09 PM.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    I would be interested in being on that list. Once I get my other eye done next Monday and heal from that I'll be back to making empty brass again!
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by hpbear101 View Post
    I have been following this thread and debating whether or not I should post my deprimer that I made I made this many years ago when I had a bunch of kids at home and couldn't afford much. I had seen a picture of a decapper in a magazine so I made one out of what I had on hand. This one is kind of deluxe, the only metal rod I could find was half of a nut cracker, add to that a couple nails, a RCBS depriming pin, and a piece of tubing and I had a deprimer. It actually works very well on rimmed cases so I never even thought of replacing it, I use it on a wide variety of cartridges and and it even has a primer pocket cleaner on the end of the lever.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tom
    Tom,

    This design is similar in principle at least to one I’ve seen from the Golden Age of Schuetzen. I’d love to see the details of how the moving shaft passes through the main body. If that opening can be made with minimal tools, this could be a very practical design concept for the average shooter/reloader. Would you be willing to post a couple more pictures of that part of your decapper or send me a PM so we can discuss getting pictures to me?

    Regards,
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  15. #35
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    SE Pennslyvania
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    67
    From the FWIW files ...

    Yesterday I used a Lee universal decapping die held in my Lee Hand Press to decap a couple hundred pieces of primed 9mm brass, so I could use the primers for other loads. It caught all the primers inside the ram. When I got full I removed the shell holder and emptied the primers into a small plastic jar that originally held bullion cubes. It worked well.

    I later used some to load some .32 H&R Mags, stored some in an empty primer box, and there are still some in the jar that will get used up next.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check