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Thread: Bubba'ed type 38 Arisaka sporter-shooter for experimental project

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    4

    Bubba'ed type 38 Arisaka sporter-shooter for experimental project

    After watching an episode on C&R Arsenal Mae's top 10 World War 1 rifles, high marks was given to the type 38 Arisaka carbine, and they were mussing that if it only had this feature and that one, it would be the perfect rifle, that where would you get a rifle like that? https://youtu.be/1gP43fa-ujk?t=4639

    Well, After some contemplation, I knew exactly where I could get a rifle like that! Buy a Bubba'ed shooter, experiment and add features that I prefer, seeing what difference changes make.

    What I will do if I have to, is take a broken drill bit, grind/dremel it to size and shape needed for 6.5 X 50 bullet mold, and using my drill press and vice, form-fit/machine my own bullet mold from a blank Lee die, but that's a lot of work I don't have to go through, if I can locate a bullet mold at a reasonable price.

    I enjoy home gun crafting, experimenting and modifying to suit my purposes, having little interest in collectible gun safe queens, preferring instead shooters that I'd actually use.

    Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions are welcome

  2. #2
    Moderator


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    Hi nimblebee, I see a "first post". Welcome to the CB Forum! It looks like you'll be an asset to the forum, and maybe we can be of help to you. Your project sounds interesting, and although I have a lot of WW II vintage military rifles I do not have a 6.5mm. I do have three of the later 7.7mm versions. I can't really explain that, but I guess a nice 6.5mm just never came across my path. But I do know that there are a lot of them out there, and that some of our members own and have tinkered with them. I have to agree with your statement (I paraphrased it a little) that purchasing a existing bullet mold would be a whole lot easier than making one. Manufacturing a mold, especially a good one requires some special equipment to get the two halves exactly right and properly aligned. Good luck to you, and keep us posted on your project. We love photos!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    Washington
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    Welcome,

    I reload for two type 99 Arisakas in 7.7x58mm. I have been reading about Arisakas for quite some time. I would like to make a few suggestions.

    Number one is research the availability of brass for a Type 38. Are you capable of forming it from other brass. There is a seasonal run of 6.5 Arisaka brass, but it is expensive. Is this really the gun project that you want?

    Number two, if you buy a Type 38, is to slug your barrel. Or better yet make a chamber pound cast. You need to know what size your barrel measures from groove to groove.

    Number three is don’t reinvent the wheel. Buy a mold that will cast a bullet .002” over your slugged measurement. It is going to cost you a bit. You will only destroy a Lee blank mold with your ground drill bit and drill press.

    Number four is decide what type of lube or coating is going to work for you, and buy some at the same time you purchase your first mold. Research tumble lubes, traditional lubes, and Powder Coating.

    And last but in no way least is read, read, read, before you buy this project. It could be a very rewarding project, but it is a lot of work if this is your first cast bullet project also.

    There are many other military rifles that have been bubba’d, that would be a far easier first casting project. I would look for a 30-06, .303, 7x57mm, or an 8mm. Something that has easily available of brass, and molds. If you are really set on a 6.5 then check out the 6.5x55, or the 6.5x54MS, or the 6.5x52 Carcano. But stay away from the Dutch 6.5x53 Rimmed unless you are looking for another weird reforming adventure.

    JM

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Prineville, Oregon
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    My Arisaka does fine with cases formed from 35 Remington. The rim is a little smaller than the original but it extracts them perfectly. Unfortunately the bore on my baby is sewer-pipish and doesn't shoot a cast boolit worth a hoot. Would want a .269" or therabouts if I were looking for a mold.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master



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    Alturas, California...where the west still lives!
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    I have collected and shot Japanese rifles for over thirty years now, long before they became a collector's "hotty". I have a type 38 carbine whose accuracy is only moderate..........however, that's not a fair evaluation as I only plinked with it a few times. Why? Because it's in excellent shape, complete with mum and original sling. As a result it mostly just sits in my safe.

    On the other hand, I have a type 38 full length infantry rifle that is my main shooter and its accuracy is downright scary at 200 yards. At that distance I can ring the 12" gong all day if I do my part. This particular rifle appears to be almost unissued, but with the mum ground. Some clown "purtied up" the stock by sanding and varnishing, which is why I got it cheap. The bore however, is tight and bright. The quality of that rifle just oozes from every angle.

    I use Lyman's 6.5mm gas check mold, 140 grains (Loverin design), which has been around forever. My alloy is simply wheel weights or plain lead hardened with a bit of linotype. Powder is 2400, and I don't remember the charge offhand but it seems it was right around 15 grains.....actually a pretty mild load, easy on the gun and easy on me.

    Brass can be formed from .35 Remington easily enough, or 220 Swift if you like a lot of labor. Don't bother though........I just checked Graf and Sons and they have Privi 6.5 Jap for around $30 per fifty. Just a few years ago it was around $30 per hundred......inflation I guess. Since Graf's charges you no shipping, BUT a $9.95 service charge, it's worth it to buy brass, mold, gas checks or jacketed bullets all at the same time.

    The type 38 Arisakas are NOT "modified Mausers". They are IMPROVED Mausers, i.e. a few of the points overlooked by Peter Paul Mauser were corrected by the Japanese rifle commission back in 1905. They sport two gas vent holes, a greatly simplified bolt with a gas diversion safety and other features that allow the guns to withstand field abuse and protect "his majesty's" soldiers also. The steels used were top notch for the time and heat treated to unbelievable standards.

    In short, they're one Hell of a bargain in my opinion.
    Last edited by 3006guns; 11-07-2020 at 04:25 PM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Welcome to the Forum, and Its great to have you with us.. I'm sort of new myself.

    Dont have a lot of knowledge with the Arisaka rifles, but I have one. A type 38, crest intact, that is pretty nice, other than its got some kind of varnish on it. I dont think its been sanded, just covered with a shinny layer of what is probably tru-oil. It was Dad's rifle, and that was his answer to everything wood.
    I had never shot it until last year, I had a young lady from Japan here, as an exchange student. She took quite an interest in that rifle and the bayonet. So I bought some empty brass from Graf and sons, and we loaded up ammo, and shot it.
    Like most all Military guns, it shoots too high, but it shoots good. We stapled up two targets, one on top of the other, and used to lower to aim at and hit to upper. It made her day to get to shoot it, and I have since played with it some. A starting load of IMR 4831 and a 140 grain J-word bullet shot well. Probably better loads and or weight out there, but that was what I had on hand. Maybe some day, lead will get tried, but unless I find a nice 6.5 Swede out there some where, I doubt I will be buying a mold for the type 38.
    Either way, its a fun rifle to shoot, and almost no recoil, so it does not kick the tar out of you..
    Lots of luck with you toy, and if you find a lead load that works please share your results.
    LC

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3006guns View Post
    Graf's charges you no shipping, BUT a $9.95 service charge, it's worth it to buy brass, mold, gas checks or jacketed bullets all at the same time.
    Great idea! I headed over to Graf's and Sons following your suggestion, and was able to get a hundred brass cases, but no luck so far on locating bullets nor molds.

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Nov 2020
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    Half the fun is the journey getting there

    Quote Originally Posted by JM7.7x58 View Post
    ...research the availability of brass for a Type 38.
    A: Got 100 brass cases at Graf's

    Quote Originally Posted by JM7.7x58 View Post
    Number two, if you buy a Type 38, is to slug your barrel. Or better yet make a chamber pound cast.
    Answer: Great idea! I've been reading on forums Saami data's incorrect for 6.5 X 50 Japanese, and slugging's necessary to find out what you've actually got.

    Quote Originally Posted by JM7.7x58 View Post
    You will only destroy a Lee blank mold with your ground drill bit and drill press.
    Answer: I've taken all available night classes on "maintenance machinist" (using machine tools in fabricating "unobtainium" repair parts for equipment), so I feel confident in creating 6.5 X 50 bullet mold with a Lee blank mold.

    Having researched as you've indicated, I'm inclined towards powder coating to be the way I'll go.
    Last edited by nimblebee; 11-21-2020 at 03:18 AM. Reason: spelling

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    Nov 2020
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    Arisaka type 38 carbine purchased off GunBroker was Intended for experimentation, & as a shooter I would actually use.

    Carbine might have been a World War bring back, as Bubba defaced the mum when sporterized into a hunting rifle? idk Whether mum is intact or not will have no bearing upon shootability, so such is of little concern to my purposes.

    I do believe one of the first modifications will be DIY chroming the bore, as I intend to experiment with different primer compounds (majority are corrosive) and smokeless powder (I have a thread over on the high road, if you're curious).

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check