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Thread: Enclosure For My New PID Temperature Controller,,, ? HELP!

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,373
    Computer power supply box has everything you need. Vent holes that double as mounting holes for components. The metal is thin enough to use Dremel cutoff wheels for the PID hole and a file to touch up any tight spots. I set my PID a little ways from my pot just in case liquid lead finds an unexpected exit from the pot. That plastic stuff will break your heart and PID. The box acts as the heat sink for the SSR.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy fralic76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Nova Scotia Canada
    Posts
    114
    I made a wooden box for mine.

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  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy SODAPOPMG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Florida panhandle
    Posts
    105
    You can use a .30 cal ammo can for the housing it has the advantage of having a built in handle
    Great minds discuss ideas
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  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    South Alabama
    Posts
    295
    Y'all certainly get fancy. Switches and fuses? You even have labels! I'm impressed and I kinda feel inadequate. My little PID box has 3 wires coming out of it. Power in, power out, and the probe connection. No switches, no nothing other than the buttons on the PID controller. The outlet I use is on a 10A breaker, and I unplug things when I'm done casting and toss it on the shelf.

    I'm jealous of the idea to use an old power supply case. It would have made life easier, and I have more than a couple around here.

  5. #25
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Bowling Green Kentucky
    Posts
    91
    I drew it up and had the local machine shop burn it in .070 steel. 4 bends later - time for paint. $25. Even though 500-700 watts would not cause the SSR to heat much, I mounted it on a small aluminum plate (better than steel) bolted through to the steel. Works very well.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    191
    My PID control works great, I am waiting for the correct thermocouple to finalize the build.
    I did find a way to use the T/C that came with the PID, i simply stuck the T/C in the gap, under the metal melter.

    I added a single bolt sticking out the bottom, about 2" long, that tilts the control side of the enclosure up.
    The raised side makes it much easier to see the PID.



    Here is a view of the inside, no, I am not a perfect wiring type guy, but it works!!



    The circuit breaker makes a PERFECT on/off switch,,,

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check