Anybody know this rifle?

[T-Bird]

I shoot 29 gr 4198 under a 330 gould hollow point in my 45/70, get about 1350 fps. I use dacron fluff over it. Done it for years. Slower and bulkier than Lil Gun which I like in other applications. Realize that they are different calibers but they both have large case capacity. Maybe this is worth what you paid for it!

[ebb]

Gun is looking great, congratulations.

[KenH]

Time for another update on the project rifle. I'm getting darn close now. I still have to make a new forearm so it fits properly, and another firing pin. The current firing pin has an extra flat milled on top of it. When I made it I got the top milled a little to far and it doesn't cock the hammer as it should. I turned pin over and milled a slot on other side to see it work. It does, now to make a correct pin.

Here's my proudest achievement - toggle links. I've made several of them trying to get headspace correct and fitting properly. A pretty large learning curve on my part.


They fit good, just oiled a bit and now they work smooth. The headspace is right about .060" - that is space between bolt face and barrel face. The rims of brass are about .055" to .056" or so giving about .004" or so clearance headspace. Tighter than normal but it works pretty good. Clearance between bolt space and barrel face checked with a .061" pin. Bolt closes and pin is pretty tight, too tight to easily pull out. A .055" rod slides freely between bolt face and barrel face and has a tad of slop. So, I'm thinking the clearance is actually around the .060" mark which is good for my brass with rim thickness of .055" to .057".

The Jamison 40-60 brass I ordered comes with rim thickness of .055" and a rim diameter of .616". I had to turn rim diameter down to .602" diameter so the extractor would slide over easy.

[missionary5155]

Toggle links are well done !
I had once considered making a set for a model 1873. Then I started realizing my chi-com drill press was all I had so I decided to look elsewhere.

[Prairie Cowboy]

Much respect KenH. Awesome work on those toggle links.

[auto5man]

very cool. Fascinating thread you have here!

[Prairie Cowboy]

Now that you have a functional antique elk rifle you need to hunt an antique elk with it.
(with holy black hand loads of course)

[Rick B]

Outstanding job on the toggle links. Enjoy shooting your resurrected 1876.
Rick

[KenH]

Another short update on the project rifle. Last weekend I finished a replacement forearm for the "draft" version I made from scrap wood. While I'm not totally happy with the wood to metal fit, it's ok for now.



I also made a couple of screws from W1 tool steel, then heat treated so the slots wouldn't bugger so easy. That turned them a nice blue color also. One was a filler screw for the tang sight screw, a 3/16-36 screw. Another I made was the finger lever screw to fit the Uberti finger lever. The original Winchester lever uses a .190" body diameter screw while the Uberti is about .198" diameter body. The original Winchester screw allows the Uberti lever to wobble a good bit.

Yesterday I loaded up 3 rounds of black powder. Filling the case 100% level full with take almost 50 grains of GOEX FFg requiring compression for depth of seated bullet. 40 grains is amount required for minor compression with a lubed felt spacer between powder and bullet. Since I wasn't sure about how heavy a load this would be, I opted for 40 grains.



Not sure why #1 shot was a tad higher fps, but perhaps it was due to a harder crimp I put on one round?

I was impressed with the black powder and think I'll load up some more BP. Cleaning is easier than I'm accustomed to with muzzle loaders. I used a solvent on brush thru bore a few times, then a dry patch. Seems to be clean? Is there a special solvent I should be using?

Ken H>

[indian joe]

Another short update on the project rifle. Last weekend I finished a replacement forearm for the "draft" version I made from scrap wood. While I'm not totally happy with the wood to metal fit, it's ok for now.



I also made a couple of screws from W1 tool steel, then heat treated so the slots wouldn't bugger so easy. That turned them a nice blue color also. One was a filler screw for the tang sight screw, a 3/16-36 screw. Another I made was the finger lever screw to fit the Uberti finger lever. The original Winchester lever uses a .190" body diameter screw while the Uberti is about .198" diameter body. The original Winchester screw allows the Uberti lever to wobble a good bit.

Yesterday I loaded up 3 rounds of black powder. Filling the case 100% level full with take almost 50 grains of GOEX FFg requiring compression for depth of seated bullet. 40 grains is amount required for minor compression with a lubed felt spacer between powder and bullet. Since I wasn't sure about how heavy a load this would be, I opted for 40 grains.



Not sure why #1 shot was a tad higher fps, but perhaps it was due to a harder crimp I put on one round?

I was impressed with the black powder and think I'll load up some more BP. Cleaning is easier than I'm accustomed to with muzzle loaders. I used a solvent on brush thru bore a few times, then a dry patch. Seems to be clean? Is there a special solvent I should be using?

Ken H>

Yep special solvent is H2O - room temperature - if you wanna go gangbusters add one drop of good dish soap per litre.

[Texas by God]

Hot water and Dawn is what I use to clean blackpowder fouling. Your forend looks good! Keep it up, I'm glad that you're trying holy black because that's what the action was proofed for.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[KenH]

Thanks for nice words on the forearm.

Yep, hot soapy water is what I've always used on muzzle loaders, and my Rolling Blocks, but boy that can be messy. Best done outside in the yard, and the whole gun tends to get wet. I was hoping for a cleaning method that would be easy 'n not so messy - like running a brush thru the bore a few times with a "magical" solvent?

[ebb]

Ive heard of BP shooters using Windex but have not tried it on my own.

[Wayne Smith]

Windex made with vinegar is the prescribed type. Has been for years.

Modern cartridge 44-40 I get about 38gr FFG with compression.

[Randy Bohannon]

1:7 Napa cutting oil and water 2” Pro Shot patch dampened one dry patch then your favorite lube for storage. You can fold over the patch and get a nice tight ‘squeegee’ fit .Kroil will let you know if the barrel is leaded with a tight fitting jag.

[KenH]

Windex/vinegar I've used for cleaning knives so I know it works pretty good and I do have it on hand. Thanks for all the ideas.

[KenH]

Folks, I just realized I'd never posted a final photo of the finished rifle. OR, what I'm considering mostly finished anyway. The finger lever is a Uberti part that was loaned to me by a very helpful member of the group. My lever is still on backorder. I did have to make a new screw for the Uberti lever to prevent wobble as the Uberti screw hole is almost .010" larger diameter than the original Winchester.

I've had LOTS of fun, and I've learned more than I ever expected to learn about these toggle link type lever action rifles. Ya'll have really been a BIG help - both with encouragement and shared knowledge. While I've had to modify almost all the Uberti parts, and made the toggle links and firing pin, it's nothing like Hootmix has done with his 1876. He's made almost all the parts.

Anyway, here's the result.

[Texas by God]

That is a good looking shooter. You brought that skeleton back to life, Doctor!

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[TCLouis]

The rifle looks great and you have provided us all a great bit of entertainment of the highest order.

[Rick B]

Looking forward to additional shooting reports.
Rick