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Thread: 200gr SWC for .45 ACP: Issues with shaving lead while loading?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bkingnsmth View Post
    You never said what type of sizer you used. If by any chance do you use a LYMAN especially the older style with a shoulder ( which cuts to the size) ? Newer style swage more without cutting. The Lee style swage also. The bare lead showing makes me wonder which type you use.


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    OK! I've returned from some experimentation on Galvin's eqiupment, and I'm happy to report that I've had some good results using the 1/1 Nipple Cream/Petroleum Jelly combination. The result was a smooth, oily, pleasant smelling concoction that makes its way into every nook and cranny.

    I'm using the Lee .452 Sizer Die. I applied the Nipple Jelly in a thin film on the sizing punch and the Hi-Tek Coated Boolits. Unlike last time, where I had used ZERO lube, counting on the coating to do the work, I ended up with leading.

    However, Using the Nipple Jelly, almost all boolits made it out into the hopper unfazed, with very small chips flaking off of the boolits in the process.
    Excited to try things out, I completed a small test. One with a Bonanza expanded Case (which can only expand after depriming, and the other using the Lee Expander. The results? The Lee Expander did a better job!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Only a small amount lead showed up in front of the case mouth and the bullet was seated nicely in a smooth motion, like it should have.
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    However, the extra-blunderbussed Bonanza expanded brass almost didn't fit in the seating die. I had to shove the brass through the seating die with way more force than anticipated and the result was a ring of about 60% of the case mouth covered by a little bit of lead.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Still, after pulling the two bullets, the near perfect Lee expanded boolit still had a small part of Hi-Tek shedded off.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    However, the Bonanza bullet had the top band shaved off as usual with the poorer quality reloads from earlier.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think I'm onto something, and hopefully, all I may need to do is tweak the seating a bit and I think this problem could be solved!

  2. #22
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    what stem is on the seating die, are the bullets going into the brass on a angle. should be using the flat end in seating die.
    The picture above looks to have good flare so bullet should not be scraping as you seat it.

    Does the die, seat and crimp at the same time?

    Make sure the brass is sitting flat in shell holder also.

    i know nothing about bonaza dies, other may know how the dies are designed
    Last edited by Adam20; 11-04-2020 at 08:44 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Mold
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    So the exposed lead is done after seating? I would suspect your PCing. Will your coating stay on if smashed in a vise? Check your temp on your oven.


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  4. #24
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bkingnsmth View Post
    So the exposed lead is done after seating? I would suspect your PCing. Will your coating stay on if smashed in a vise? Check your temp on your oven.


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    These are bullets from the Manufacturer Hoosier Bullets. Paid about 11 cents per bullet including shipping and taxes. Not a bad deal to be honest.

    I think my brother's batch of bullets had a not so great coating. The ones on my .38 SWC's were gorgeous and didn't flake off at all when seating, even after I pulled them.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam20 View Post
    what stem is on the seating die, are the bullets going into the brass on a angle. should be using the flat end in seating die.
    The picture above looks to have good flare so bullet should not be scraping as you seat it.

    Does the die, seat and crimp at the same time?
    I haven't popped open the seating die just yet, but when I attempted to seat the boolit in the seating die, the extra wide Bonanza expansion just seemed to rest on the rim of the die. I had to shove the brass through in order for the boolit to seat. I should tone down the expansion if I ever were to use the Bonanza expander again.

    Remember that the less pronounced Lee expansion managed to seat into the brass almost perfectly. I'd honestly have to chock up the shaved coating to a not so great Hi-Tek coating on that particular batch of bullets I had ordered.
    Last edited by VariableRecall; 11-04-2020 at 10:22 PM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    I'm also going to add the OAL measurement of the better boolit here as well.

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  7. #27
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    I think you're on the right track , backing the seating die out a little .
    Last edited by toallmy; 11-05-2020 at 02:02 AM.

  8. #28
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    I think, and I may be wrong, that your die has a roll crimp instead of a taper crimp. In older dies it used to be common to put a roll crimp in it and set the die so the case mouth will just kiss it to take the flare out. I had a Hornady set like that.

    I'd guess that the coating coming off is a direct result of the crimp during disassembly, and it won't be an issue in actual firing.

    Would they be safe to fire? Yes and no. Having a bit of uncoated bullet, or a bit of fine lead "hair" won't hurt it. It would just cause some leading, might not be enough to worry about or might be a lot. Only test firing will know.

    Having a roll crimp that let's the case go past the chamber shoulder though would cause pressure to spike.

    What seating stem you using? A flat stem, like for a semi wadcutter, it may be you need to start your bullet slightly and then back off the handle and let the die and bullet square up before seating fully. If you used a round nose seating stem it should come darn close to self centering.

    I crimp and seat in the same operation and I get an occational lead hair, but in general it's problem free once you tweak your dies correctly.
    Last edited by Bazoo; 11-05-2020 at 02:54 AM.

  9. #29
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    The boolits are HiTek coated.
    1) rub a coated boolit on a white cloth soaked with acetone and see if any color comes off
    2) smash a boolit with a hammer on a piece of steel/anvil down to about 1/8 inch thick and see if you are getting any flaking

    if you get coating scraped of while sizing you will need to smooth the entrance to your sizing die.: I use a felt bullet-shaped pad on a Dremel tool starting with coarse then fine polishing compound to smooth the entrance OR you can get a small piece of 400 grit wet/dry paper and make a small cone with the and on the outside then either use a sharpened stick or a Philips screwdriver bit and spin the sandpaper in the entrance of the sizing die.

    the lee 45 acp powder through case neck expanding case mouth flaring die usually works just fine, just adjust it in until the case mouth flares a little allowing easy staring of the boolit.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    The boolits are HiTek coated.

    the lee 45 acp powder through case neck expanding case mouth flaring die usually works just fine, just adjust it in until the case mouth flares a little allowing easy staring of the boolit.
    Galvin actually purchased one of those so we could start expanding.

    Also, we have dissasembled the Bonanza Expander and it turns out the depriming pin on the expander IS removable. however, it's a teeny piece that could easily get lost.

    One thing Galvin noticed so far is that the Bonanza Seating Die (which I've wiped down with alcohol wipes) is that the seater is "cupped" with a long chamber which I believe should support the case instead of the Boolit.

  11. #31
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    “Fit just fine” is not a correct answer to the question. The photos look to me like the case mouths are severely over-crimped. The hard, bright ring at the mouth is what gives me that opinion. The mouth should be taper crimped to 0.471”. An over-crimped round will “fit just fine.” Flare enough that no lead is shaved and measure the crimp. Problem solved.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  12. #32
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    seat and crimp in two separate operations

    Progressive Press and 2 seating dies

    1st seating die sets the OAl

    2nd Die taper crimps it... and you can also verify length

  13. #33
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    The crimp is starting before the projectile is seated to length. As suggested above, seat and taper crimp in separate steps was my solution.

    Not being a SA, but read a couple different brand die adjusting instructions. The concept is generally the same but some put it to words better than others.
    Stronger, Prouder and Greater!

  14. #34
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    One reason for saving small used prescription bottles is to store small, easily lost things like primer-punch pins.
    R.D.M.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackthorn View Post
    One reason for saving small used prescription bottles is to store small, easily lost things like primer-punch pins.
    The funny thing is that I'm using a plastic container for Bullion cubes to store the miscellaneous equipment in our inventory. Cleaned it out the best I could but I'd assume the abrasiveness of the lock rings inside must have scuffed the surface enough so that everything in there smells like beef stock.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford SD View Post
    seat and crimp in two separate operations

    Progressive Press and 2 seating dies

    1st seating die sets the OAl

    2nd Die taper crimps it... and you can also verify length
    We only have a single Lee Hand Press at our disposal. We'll be getting those nifty Lee Quick change lock rings soon to speed up the process. Considering that I've had great success with the Lee Factory Crimp die in .38 special, I may want to get one for .45 ACP for Galvin.

  17. #37
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    Seat the boolit ...no crimp
    Taper crimp in a separate step ...

    The boolit is still being seated , moving down in the case , while the crimp is applied ... the coating gets scraped off ..

    Apply just enough crimp to remove the flare from the case and make it straight sided .
    One of your photo's shows too much crimp ... back off the crimp die , the bright front edge is squeezing the case into the driving band and causing the coating to flake off at that point .

    .452" sized boolits are much easier to work with but you can make .453" work ... just try seating and crimping in separate steps .

    I load all my handgun ammo , 45 acp included with a lee hand press ... you can do it !
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  18. #38
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    Seat the boolit ...no crimp
    Taper crimp in a separate step ...

    The boolit is still being seated , moving down in the case , while the crimp is applied ... the coating gets scraped off ..

    Apply just enough crimp to remove the flare from the case and make it straight sided .
    One of your photo's shows too much crimp ... back off the crimp die , the bright front edge is squeezing the case into the driving band and causing the coating to flake off at that point .

    .452" sized boolits are much easier to work with but you can make .453" work ... just try seating and crimping in separate steps .

    I load all my handgun ammo , 45 acp included with a lee hand press ... you can do it !
    Gary
    At first I was quite apprehensive that such a diminutive press could work. But now that I've had ample experience with it, considering that I only expect to load about 50 or sounds rounds per session, the Hand Press is just what I need. It's a lovely tool and considering how much ammo I've reloaded with it, it's already paid for given the now ludicrous price of ammunition these days.

    We will definitely size the SWC Boolits to .452 going forward. In our next set of tests we will definitely reduce the crimp to an absolute minimum.

    By the way, would the Lanolin Nipple Cream/petroleum jelly lubricant affect the powder in any way? I doubt it but I'm just covering my bases.
    Last edited by VariableRecall; 11-06-2020 at 06:29 PM.

  19. #39
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    First question - are these safe to shoot. If you are talking about case mouth headspace the answer is yes - they are safe to shoot. Every piece of 45ACP brass I have measured is short! My conclusion is that they are not seating on the case mouth but being held back against the bolt by the extractor. Thus you have no problem as long as they plunk in your chamber.

    Second question - is your lube dangerous to the powder? Probably not to smokeless but I'd keep it off the bullet base anyway. That is the only access to the powder.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  20. #40
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    First question - are these safe to shoot. If you are talking about case mouth headspace the answer is yes - they are safe to shoot. Every piece of 45ACP brass I have measured is short! My conclusion is that they are not seating on the case mouth but being held back against the bolt by the extractor. Thus you have no problem as long as they plunk in your chamber.

    Second question - is your lube dangerous to the powder? Probably not to smokeless but I'd keep it off the bullet base anyway. That is the only access to the powder.
    Thanks for the info. The coating of the lubricant is very thin, enough to know it's there by touch. probably should put some in the lube grooves considering how spotty the Hi-Tek coating is on Galvin's batch.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check