Lee PrecisionMidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxWideners
Snyders JerkyInline FabricationRotoMetals2Load Data
Titan Reloading Reloading Everything
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: paraffin or bees wax as lube on outside lubed heeled boolit (38 Long Colt) ?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,752
    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    Gato Feo is an original 19th century bullet lube formula. I, and others, have tried different tallows and all did not work as well as mutton or lamb tallow. It is well worth brewing up, using, and fully enjoying.

    Some notes on Gato Feo by its namesake creator ...

    GATOFEO LUBE
    ************

    by weight ...

    1 part mutton tallow (dixie gun works)
    1 part canning wax (gulf)
    1/2 part beeswax

    Yes, canning paraffin is a petroleum product, but it's also pure paraffin. There are no scents, unrelated oils, glitter, etc. such as are found in decorative or scented candles. It's pure, and that' why I specify it.

    When I first began using canning paraffin, I too wondered why it didn't create the tarry fouling when used with black powder, as other petroleum products do. Fact is, I posed this question in various message boards years ago. A chemist provided what seems a plausible answer: Canning paraffin lacks the hydrocarbons found in other petroleum products. Apparently, these hydrocarbons are the offender.

    I'm no chemist, and I don't have access to a lab that could test for the presence of hydrocarbons, so I remain uncertain if what he said is true, opinion or S.W.A.G.
    All I know is that canning paraffin -- the same translucent stuff that is melted and poured into the open mouths of preserve jars, does not create the hard, tarry fouling I typically find with other petroleum products (automotive grease, transmission fluid, rifle grease, lithium grease, etc.).

    The natural greases (animal and vegetable in origin) also dissolve more easily in soapy water during cleaning. Petroleum grease resists dissolving and tends to float around in the water as tiny clumps, often sticking to the steel surfaces of guns and requiring additional cleaning.

    Canning paraffin works. I can't explain it. The original 19th century factory recipe called for "paraffin" and that was the only description. There are different types of paraffin, but I chose canning paraffin for its purity and availability. Luckily, it worked just fine and I didn't have to search for a more esoteric paraffin.

    Perhaps it lacks the hydrocarbons that are claimed to be the culprit. Perhaps not. But I do know that canning paraffin is the best paraffin I've found and it doesn't create a hard, tarry fouling when used with black powder.

    I've made other variations of Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant with substituted ingredients, including old candles, and the resulting lubricant is not as good.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    The old recipe I found only listed:
    Tallow
    Paraffin
    Beeswax

    No specifics beyond these were given.

    The recipe was originally used by factories for bullets that were outside lubricated, as found on heeled bullets. The only heeled bullets loaded by factories today are the .22 Short, Long and Long Rifle, and the .32 Short Colt (occasionally loaded by Winchester).

    I used the above recipe and assembled it with mutton tallow, canning paraffin and beeswax because it's what I had on hand when I found the old recipe.

    I have a Marlin Model 1892 rifle that uses heeled bullets, which I cast myself. After using the lubricant with .32 Long Colt reloads, I decided to try it with felt wads for my cap and ball revolvers, and patches for my CVA Mountain Rifle in .50 caliber.

    Doing so, I was impressed with the old recipe assembled with mutton tallow, canning paraffin and beeswax. I've also used it with black powder loads and lead bullets in my .44-40 and .45-70 rifles, as well as .45 Long Colt revolver.

    I used very specific ingredients, but didn't change the ratio of 10/10/5 parts.

    I first posted the recipe -- with mutton tallow, canning paraffin and beeswax -- about 1999 or 2000 on many message boards. Shortly after posting it, someone dubbed it "Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant" and the name stuck.

    Did the old factory recipe specify liquid or solid paraffin? I don't know. I suspect it was solid, because the lubricant must be sticky and solid, to stick to the bare, smooth lead of an outside-lubricated bullet not protected by the case. Only a very small portion of the bullet is inside the case -- the heel -- the rest of it is exposed to grit and lubricant wear-off while carried in pockets and game bags.

    Modern .22 rimfire lubricant that covers the bullet is much harder and tenacious than the old factory recipe I found.
    I suspect it's entirely wax of some type, with no grease or beeswax.

    From what I've observed -- tiny teats on the point of the lead .22 bullet -- it's applied by dipping the completed cartridge upside down in melted wax up to where the bullet meets the brass case. Dipping in melted lubricant was the old method and is evidently still used today.

    I know of liquid paraffin used for lamp fuel, but don't believe I've ever seen it. Perhaps I simply haven't recognized it.

    Interestingly, one muzzleloading outfitter's site claims:

    WARNING: Paraffin and other petroleum products can cause "Cook offs". It is neither fun nor healthy to have your musket unexpectedly fire while you are loading.

    This is the first warning of this type I've seen, and I've been using black powder for nearly 40 years. I don't understand how a "cook-off" can be generated by paraffin. Does he mean it creates longer-lasting embers?

    The age-old definition of "cook-off" means that the gun metal becomes so hot that the powder is ignited by this heat. This is a common problem in machine guns, and perhaps semi-autos fired quickly with a great deal of ammo, but in a black powder rifle?

    The owner of the site clearly has a great deal of experience in black powder shooting, but i have to doubt this assertion. I've yet to hear of anyone experiencing unexpected ignition by using petroleum products. I and others have learned that most petroleum products, when used with black powder, create a hard, tarry fouling. Of this there is little doubt.

    Canning paraffin lacks this characteristic. A chemist wrote me long ago that canning paraffin lacks the hydrocarbons that petroleum greases and oils contain. I don't know about this; I'm not a chemist, petroleum engineer or geologist. However, I DO know that I don't experience the hard, tarry fouling when using canning paraffin.
    Whatever it lacks or possesses, it's clearly different from other petroleum products.
    Good info - thanks for taking the time to post it

    Canning wax --yep -- know that stuff -- spent many hours as a kid helping my mom seal jars of jam and some other preserves with it - all hands on deck in those days when the produce was in - the large block i have is definitely Parrafin wax

    So candle wax is out! saved us some trouble on that

    the "cook off" I have some different ideas on that - only requires 10 or 11 to 1 compression to ignite some petroleums - leave the cap on the nipple as a seal (or a blocked powder channel) ram a 38 slug thats a neat fit to bore - shove it down quick - boom!!!! ---dont need a burning ember just some petroleum oil left in the bore - sure its a long shot but two guys have near blown their hand off with 38 slug guns, both very experienced shooters, everyone at a loss to explain how it happened - this is one possibility

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    35
    I use a blackpowder type beeswax lube on my externally lubed 310 cadet loads. A little messy, but does the trick. These are not screamin fast loads.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    332
    I prefer non petroleum ingredients in lube used with black powder. Emmert's lube is hard to beT; beeswax, crisco, crisco oil. I substitute tallow for crisco and add lanolin.
    Last edited by DonHowe; 11-14-2020 at 04:40 AM.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check