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Thread: Shoulder dents in 223 cases

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Shoulder dents in 223 cases

    Just got back into reloading, son and grandson are shooting NRA Highpower matches with 223. I just finished resizing 80 cases and had a lot of shoulder oil dents. I am using Bag Balm for lube, applied by wiping on with fingers, a generous amount. I learned early not to lube neck or shoulder, that reduced number of dents but did not eliminate them. I think the lube is migrating up from the case body. The relief hole is in the body of my press, about 1 1/2 threads down, so I cut a relief groove from there to outside the lock ring. no grease showed up yet.

    What tips can you give me to stop these dents. I tried less lube and got a stuck case, so I am leery of that.

    I guess I should clean out the die (RCBS) and see if that helps.

    Thanks for any comments.

    Steve

  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I've had good luck with my .223's using a clean die and the new generation spray can lubes like Hornady's 'one shot'.

    Spraying it from an angle that it goes into the case neck has greatly extended the life of my expander balls too.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy nhyrum's Avatar
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    Either switch to an alcohol/lanolin lube or imperial wax.

    It sure sounds like still to much lube/liquid in the die, causing the dimples. Any less and you get stuck cases. To me it just sounds like what you're using isn't cut out for case lube. I know people use all sorts of anything semi slippery. With imperial lube, I usually lightly wipe every 3rd case with just what's on my fingers. With alcohol/lanolin, spray a squirt or two in a gallon bag or tupperware container, and give them a shake. With liquid lubes, you have to wait for the solvent to flash off, which can take a few minutes, so just keep that in mind

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  4. #4
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    Minerat's Avatar
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    I use the one shot lube but put 50 or so cases in a zip bag and give them a couple of spritzes and then rub them around to get good coverage. Here is a thread I found some time ago that may give you some Ideas.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ass-for-sizing
    Steve,

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master scattershot's Avatar
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    You don’t need much lube at all. Try decreasing the amount of lube on your fingers, and I’ll bet the dents go away.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy nhyrum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scattershot View Post
    You don’t need much lube at all. Try decreasing the amount of lube on your fingers, and I’ll bet the dents go away.
    He mentioned he tried using less lube, and he got a stuck cases.

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Too much lube. There is a happy medium between stuck cases and hydraulic dents.

    I have tried a few things. I don't trust Hornady One Shot for rifle cases.

    My current practice is RCBS case lube and a lube pad. The pad is almost dry so that a very modest amount is applied. Grab a handful, roll them a touch. I don't find it necessary to lube neck interiors for 223.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I use Hornady one shot for both 30-30 and 30-06. I also use imperial. I find that a moderate smear on the case body, down from the shoulder about 1/4"-3/8" is the happy spot without dents.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
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    Perhaps you have the die adjusted to set the shoulder back a bit too much.
    This pushes the shoulder too tight to the die so lube can't flow.
    Leo

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Oil dents mean too much lube.

    Stuck case means too little lube.

    I would say your distribution of the bag balm is lacking.

    I use the tub of Lyman Unique wax lube. I get my thumb, index and middle finger treated with a fairly thin amount of the Unique lube and fairly well cover the entire exterior of the case to be FL sized. The exception being the shoulder it self.

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  11. #11
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Easy fix.......Imperial Sizing Wax

  12. #12
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    I use Bag Balm and have for years. A very light sheen is all that is needed. With clean 30-06 cases I can frequently lube every other case as long as I have been using the die for a while. I have never (knock on wood) stuck a case using it. I do use a medicine bottle full of shot and graphite to lube inside the necks though.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    You certain that some of those dents were not on the case already from hard extraction by the rifle? In any case, the dents will be removed through fire forming.

    As others, I use RCBS case lube (like Brill Cream, a little dab will do ya), and roll about 15 cases at a time between the palms of my hands for uniformity of lube. Drop in a bucket, pick up another 15, etc. Wash hands, then size the lot of them. Handloading is a "full contact" hobby...
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    dont lube the shoulder ,just the sides and every few inside the neck.i find it easier to roll cases on a lube pad.dont forget to trim the cases.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks for all the help, it's appreciated.

    Heres my plan of attack:
    First, demount, disassemble and clean die, ir has been a long time if ever since it has been done.
    2nd Make a riser for my case holder so the die can be mounted higher in the press, so the air vent can be above the lock ring.
    3rd get and use some Hornady "One Shot".
    4th try less lube again.
    5th see what results I get from these ideas.

    Thanks again,

    Steve

    PS I do trim after sizing, and before priming. Using Lee Quick Trim, motorized with China screwdriver.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I'd chuck a brush in the drill and at a SLOW speed give the die a good scrubbing. Good bore solvent should help dissolve any deposits. Slick up the inside and you'll need less lube to size those cases. Might need to clean out the vent hole with a piece of wire out of a wire brush. I think you have a good plan of attack. I love that imperial sizing die wax.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by robg View Post
    dont lube the shoulder ,just the sides and every few inside the neck.i find it easier to roll cases on a lube pad.dont forget to trim the cases.
    +1 for the above advice.

    ukrifleman

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

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    When you clean the die use soft cloths around a nylon brush by hand. Clean the die good and make sure he bleed hole is clean and clear, if it is plugged the air and excess lube cant bleed off causing dents. Hoppes 9 or bore solvent is good for cleaning dies.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    Heres what I've done so far: Step one, disassemble and clean die. Was surprised how clean it was. used soft cloth wrapped around an Allen wrench, soaked in brake cleaner (this brand is mostly various alcohols) and then sprayed down with brake cleaner. Air vent hole was filled with soft, discolored lube, easily cleaned out with small probe.

    Step two, started making a riser for the shell holder, not finished yet. I might not be able to make this idea work, the die has to be up inside the threaded hole and the shell holder will go up inside, but leaves no room for set screws to hold it in place. Thinking about that.

    Steve

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I keep a rag in one hand and wipe off the neck and shoulder before putting the case in the shellholder. My method has me loading the press with my left hand and working the handle with my right so I hold the rag right handed.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check