Rossi 92 reassembly issue (half cock issue)

[Froogal]

I've noticed in dry fire that the trigger is fine if worked immediately but if left cocked for several seconds and then pulled there's a tendency for the hammer to hang. Sometimes I can see a tiny movement, and then it hangs, and then drops.

Is this normal for the 92?

Be a little more generous with whatever lube you are using. Both of my Rossi's like to run "wet".

[PerpetualStudent]

If it's not one thing it's another. I had to take it apart again to get part of a dowel out of the barrel. While it was all disassembled I put some white lithium grease on the moving parts. I had read this was a preferred lube for the rossis. Aaaaaand I hit a snag again.

This time the bolt locked forward. The bolt pin is out and doesn't want to go back in. But even with the pin entirely out of the firearm the bolt seems locked forward. Doing some research some people have had an issue with a smaller pin inside the bolt drifting out and that causing jams. I suppose that's possible. The ejector did come out of the bolt when I took it apart. But the collar, spring and ejector all went back together.

I'm not sure where to go. Using a fiberglass rod I know will fit inside the empty case in the chamber and using a mallet gently would seem the next step. But since the bolt pin is out I think I need to get that back in before I try that. Otherwise the breech will stay locked. I can attach the lower tang and hammer and trigger and they go together and work fine (better with the lithium actually). But this is how it was when the problem presented.



I've got the bolt pin back in now but it is locked up tight.

[PerpetualStudent]

I have looked at https://www.rossi-rifleman.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6649
as the closest issue I could find. I tried the tapping with a mallet and that didn't work. I may try loosening the guides but I don't know.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

if I'm reading your problem correctly, the bolt is locked forward, but the cross pin that attaches the bolt to the lever is not in place? Assuming that the locking block is out of the receiver, the piece which rises to lock the bolt forward when firing, there should be nothing to prevent the bolt's rearward travel. A dowel down the bore against the bolt face and a good smack with a mallet should send the bolt backward in the receiver (and if you're not careful, onto the floor). As for installation of the bolt and it's cross pin, when inserting the pin through the bolt from the left side of the receiver you must maintain a strong forward push on the back of the bolt with your thumb of the off hand to align the bolt and lever holes. The hole in the bolt is a fairly close fit to the pin, so getting it in there can be a little tricky. I've ground some on a grinding wheel to taper them a bit at the edge so they'll insert easier. This is much the same on all Win. 92's and clones.
I haven't followed this thread until now. If you maybe have some wood fragments from an earlier dowel experience jammed in the works, then you'll have to completely strip the receiver again and start over. Clean any debris out and reassemble from the bare receiver up. The first thing to go in is the bolt, followed by the lever, and then connecting the two with the pin. I see you're talking about removing/loosening the guides. Leave them alone, as they only guide the cartridge into the chamber and have nothing to do with your problem.

[PerpetualStudent]

I did get the bolt pin properly in place. I'll remember about pushing the bolt forward next time.

Unfortunately the lever (and the locking lugs) won't go down at all. Since the pin that connects the two was out and the problem was still there I'm confident that isn't the issue locking up the bolt. Also when that was the issue there was a little travel in the bolt. This is locked solidly in battery. The locking lugs show a tiny bit of downward movement and then there's a click and the lever doesn't move.

It's possible some fiberglass fragments have gummed up the works.

[Old School Big Bore]

After all the ins and outs and ups and downs, I'm corn-fused. Have you bought Steve's R92 video yet? I've had 'real' 92s and 53s and B92s and 53s apart and back together for years. One thing I noticed on my R92 is that the bolt pin's serrations and the hole it's supposed to bind in got loose the first time I drove it out. After that I laid the serrated end of the pin on the anvil and egg-shaped it a bit, then when I drove it in again, it understood the concept of not moving. If you get it back apart and lined up, maybe give it a little stay-in-place persuasion.
I also noticed that Steve's tip to use a dummy round in the chamber to position the ejector/spring/collar prior to inserting the nose of the lever is a great idea. His video is a great investment - I used the action smoothing and trigger job info to slick up a B92 and B53. They were already nice, but the work improved both of them. Good luck with your R92.
Ed <><

[PerpetualStudent]

At this point I'm considering sending the rifle to steve to get it fixed, even with a year's wait time. I've tried to be as careful as I can be and I keep getting into jams. I thought after the first issue that I was getting to really understand the gun. I was planning on getting the DVD and slicking her up myself but my simple "slug the barrel and add some lithium grease" has resulted in a nonfunctioning rifle.

[Old School Big Bore]

You can get the DVD inside of a week. Worth a shot rather than committing to a year in limbo.
Ed <><

[Handloader109]

nra guide is worthless for this. Don't buy if you haven't. I've not taken mine down far myself.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[prs]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkjP...el=TargetSuite

Maybe this will help.

prs

[Denver]

Excellent video on You Tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0r0l5MRNaU