Turned a non-working shot maker into a working shot maker

[n10sivern]

I got this “non-working” shot maker off ePay for $150 shipped. It arrived today.





It had a burnt wire.


5 minutes later it’s now working. This is just a temporary fix.



I plan to replace all the wire with 10ga high temp appliance wire. I’d also like to add a fuse, but I’m unsure what size to go with. Any idea where I can get just 2-3 feet of high temp 10ga appliance wire and some high temp connectors? Any tips/pointers?

[Rapidrob]

Your trials are just starting. The one you bought is an older model. The wiring is just old and dry. Number 10 wire will help,but I would use high-temp wire instead as it will last for years. ( nickel wire with a fiberglass covering) Mine has it.
The "drippers have not been used for a long time. They may have to be replaced as they do not last a long time, and are almost impossible to clean properly. Soapstone rubbed into the drippers does help keeping them flowing. Too hot lead will plate the orifice with alloy material and your not getting if off of them. That is why I went to a digital temp controller.
A thermometer is needed for sure.
I ended up using an electronic temperature controller as the bimetallic control does not work well greatly affecting the quality of the shot shape. ( it just takes way to long to react to a cold block of lead being dropped in or a too hot melt)
I drop my shot into circulating automatic transmission fluid. The drop is just under one inch. I built a self contained system that traps the shot and allows the rising transmission fluid to be captured,cooled through a radiator and pumped back to cool the hot shot.
So far I have made many tons shot. ( free lead from my work) The device works well when properly maintained and kept fed clean lead and the drippers well lubed at the correct temp.
You must monitor the device at all times. There is a rhythm as to when to add new lead. I used to use the one pound Lyman block mold as it seems to be the proper weight that will melt in time and not plug the drippers with too cool lead and clog which is not fun to clear.
I've since gone to a Lyman 20 pound lead casting pot mounted above the shot make which always adds temp controlled lead melt to the maker trough. I found this works very well at keeping the makers melt at the same temp.
Once your shot maker is at operating temp and your getting round shot, the lead level drops quickly and will go through a lot of lead in one hour.
Keep a torch on hand to quickly heat up a clogged dripper. A piece of stainless steel stiff wire held in needle nose vice-grips is a blessing.
A sturdy dipper is needed to remove the early poorly made shot at the start and to keep the cooling fluid at a constant level for the shot drop.
A good washing screed /screen is needed to remove / wash off the transmission fluid ( or cooling fluid ) you use.
I then use old cafeteria trays to dry the shot and cull out the bad shot / whiskers. I have a home made shot "sizer" to sift out the wrong sized / misinformed shot.
Once dry the shot is tumbled with graphite and dried, it is then bagged.
The shot is very hard and round. I have never has a shot load not pattern properly or fail to break a bird.
If you need further help pleas PM me.

[n10sivern]

Wow. Rapidrob, thanks so much for the info. What mix lead are you using? Adding antimony?

[rancher1913]

find a scrap yard and see if you can strip the wires off an old stove, there is usually high temp wires running to the burners

[Rapidrob]

I use lead from work. Not sure of the alloy but it is harder than pure lead.
Getting the wire from a junk yard is a good idea.
Since the shot is oil cooled it gets pretty hard on its own.

[skrapyard628]

n10sivern,

Send me a PM with your address and I can get some 10ga hi-temp wire on the way to you.

We build big industrial ovens at my work and I can get a few feet of brand new wire fresh off the spool for you. Its the fiberglass sheathed wire.

[dsh1106]

I use Crown 6080 Dry Moly Lubricant - Aerosol on the drippers and the ramp. I can use one application of this stuff for an entire run of 8 - 10 hours with zero "sticking" issues.

I would also get a PID with a thermocouple input, then you can dial your temperature in.

Scott

[n10sivern]

n10sivern,

Send me a PM with your address and I can get some 10ga hi-temp wire on the way to you.

We build big industrial ovens at my work and I can get a few feet of brand new wire fresh off the spool for you. Its the fiberglass sheathed wire.

Thank you for the incredible offer. PM sent

[n10sivern]

I use Crown 6080 Dry Moly Lubricant - Aerosol on the drippers and the ramp. I can use one application of this stuff for an entire run of 8 - 10 hours with zero "sticking" issues.

I would also get a PID with a thermocouple input, then you can dial your temperature in.

Scott

I plan to build a PID

[n10sivern]

Any idea who built this shot maker?

[too many things]

jim stewart he had several problems one was wiring, next take the switch out . it only cut one side of the power , do as some have said change the wire, i sent you pm
have rebuilt many of his , he passed about 2 yrs ago .

[megasupermagnum]

A fuse would likely be a waste of time. Your outlets already have a 15 or 20 amp breaker. I don't see the value in a toggle switch on these either. My shot maker has one, but it stays in on position. I unplug it when done.

[copdills]

good job

[jsizemore]

Supco T1112 high temp 1/4" female spade connector 10-12 gauge. I don't have the number in front of me for the ceramic wire nuts. You can find them on Supco's website. Most appliance parts stores keep 10 packs of Supco's small parts in stock.

[Rapidrob]

I have the Littleton Shot Maker. I do use the Moly Case Prep on the drippers.
I have a PID controlling the shot maker and the Lyman 20 pound lead pot. I can keep the lead at +/- 5 degrees F.