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Thread: Reloading primers with toy caps - results

  1. #41
    Boolit Master



    shooterg's Avatar
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    Similar was done by a now-passed friend with the "white" part of strike anywhere matches - but those if you can find 'em are nothing like the old ones from back then. Guess the government thought they were too dangerous after the first 150 years of use....

  2. #42
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    The German mfg. caps mentioned in Dr. Thompson’s paper can be purchased from Bass Pro & Cabellas in their toy section. WM, $tree, and the like don’t seem to stock the Un-PC items anymore.
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  3. #43
    Boolit Master Castaway's Avatar
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    RyanJames170, the priming compound to reload 22’s is corrosive as it contains potassium chlorate. I’ve used it to make percussion caps and it works well. It leaves a reddish-orange deposit of salts around the outside of the cylinder and barrel and washes of readily with a little soap and water.
    Last edited by Castaway; 11-16-2020 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Auto correct mistake

  4. #44
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    Have any one added FFF or FFFF black powder to the caps when you load them , I have and found it work on almost all but center rifle you need to have the powder to the flash hole.Uesd the German caps , Did try the ones from China there was not many good ones on the roll.
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  5. #45
    Boolit Mold
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    This is pretty slick. I appreciate the info!

    Out of curiosity, does anyone know if these caps from BassPro work? They’re made by Parris Manufacturing in TN.

    Thanks again!

    https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/parr...r-cap-gun-toys

  6. #46
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    I'd sure try them
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  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Castaway View Post
    RyanJames170, the priming compound to reload 22’s is corrosive as it contains potassium chlorate. I’ve used it to make percussion caps and it works well. It leaves a reddish-orange deposit of salts around the outside of the cylinder and barrel and washes of readily with a little soap and water.

    Most of the Toy Caps use a Potassium Chlorate formula as stated in super small writing on the packages. This would make a corrosive primer similar in use through the 1930's. Proper cleaning after firing will remove the corrosive residue. Better a corrosive primer - than no primer at all.
    Last edited by MUSTANG; 11-19-2020 at 02:15 PM.
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  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rightbrained View Post
    That was very interesting .
    Back when I was a kid caps and cap guns were “ cool”.
    Back when I was a kid we would smack a whole single roll with a hammer. My ears are still ringing.
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  9. #49
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    This is a very interesting subject. Hats off to you for the great documentation. Have you tried with more than two caps? Four or six, just to see the results?

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cosmic_Charlie View Post
    Back when I was a kid we would smack a whole single roll with a hammer. My ears are still ringing.
    I did that in the 50's as well and do believe that I got some audio damage from it! Fun though.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by dondiego View Post
    I did that in the 50's as well and do believe that I got some audio damage from it! Fun though.
    As a kid, to get the best bang for buck, we would take a needle and carefully push it through the center of each one aligning each them, so they would be sure to go off all together. They did!

  12. #52
    Boolit Bub
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    You can use regular match heads along with red phosphorus to make primer compound. Where can you get red phosphorus? Right on the match box. The igniter on side the matchbox has the red phosphorus. Take a sharp blade and just scrape it off. Mix a tiny bit of the red phosphorus with crushed match head and fill up the primer cup. Adding tiny bit of fine black powder can help. It works very well and you can get matches anywhere!

    http://aardvarkreloading.com/resourc...e%20Update.pdf

    Link has all kinds of primer recipes

  13. #53
    Boolit Buddy
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    I thought my brother invented the whole-roll-hammer method. Apparently not! It would wake up the neighbors.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    This is a very interesting subject. Hats off to you for the great documentation. Have you tried with more than two caps? Four or six, just to see the results?
    Thank you kindly - I knew the concept worked due to those who did it long before me, but they never seemed to show actual velocities so I decided to do it this way.

    4 or 6 caps, not yet - noobie shooters and my other experiments are keeping me busy. I'm not sure how many would fit in the cup - I think I'll stick with 2 caps and add a little powder between them next time to try and reduce the delay.
    Last edited by AndyC; 11-21-2020 at 08:29 PM.
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  15. #55
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    LOL, a buddy and I used 2 bricks back in 50’s( old solid) to set off roll(s) next to the country road we lived on. All those that stopped got to check for blow out. Even got a county Sheriff, once he saw no blow out he called us out of our hideout hole. He said no problem as he was laughing. Did it today end up in juve’ie hall? We even had a fake black snake we'd pull across the road, what fun.
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Grinch View Post
    Very inventive there. I like your ingenuity. I’m surprised caps are available on Amazon. Do they ship ORM-D?

    We used to take several and lay them on a flat surface and hit them with a hammer. Not exactly safe, but back them it sure was fun!
    We used to use 'Greeny Stick-Um Caps" on the bottoms of our Teachers Steel Chair Glides...Hardwood Floors, and when the Teacher came in to the Classroom and sat down, "Bang-Bang-Bang!" or depending on how many of the four Glides got the Caps, Lol...worked great!

  17. #57
    Boolit Buddy
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    Using this thread as inspiration I just successfully reloaded my first primer! Ordered some cap rolls online and they showed the Super Bang brand mentioned above but sent a different brand. I tried 2 caps in a small pistol primer but no joy, just a click. Tried 3 caps and my boolit found it’s way down range, my brass jumped out and vanished into a pile of leaves, and the slide locked back on the now empty mag! It was dark by this point so I’ll be running some more tests tomorrow. Thank you for posting your research so that lemmings like me can shamelessly copy!

  18. #58
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    Excellent
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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cosmic_Charlie View Post
    Back when I was a kid we would smack a whole single roll with a hammer. My ears are still ringing.
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  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahbub View Post

    Hey, I think I found that primer-making .pdf here: http://aardvarkreloading.com/resourc...imercourse.pdf
    Thanks much! Like others have said, info and snap caps(!) serve as good insurance against what the new regime's policies will likely bring.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check