Lay the drill motor on its side, hanging a couple of inches over the side of the table. Makes it easy to put case in the cutter and to take them out, trimming drops into what ever you have underneath! YMMV!
Lay the drill motor on its side, hanging a couple of inches over the side of the table. Makes it easy to put case in the cutter and to take them out, trimming drops into what ever you have underneath! YMMV!
I know that it's not really needed, but I've already noticed that depending on brands their length varies a slight deal. Hard to notice by eye, but according to a crimp die, might be a little larger than that. I would assume that the brass cases would give out far before the brass gets squeezed in enough to extend the length of the cartridge enough to mess up a future crimp.
I used something like one might put popcorn in after you popped one of those microwave bags, maybe a gallon capacity. Throwed a bunch of brass in there, trimmed, tossed trimmed brass in another bowl, then dumped the trimmings each batch to another disposable bowl (wife thought that stuff was prolly gonna be deadly to anyone eating out of it again, so I used disposable) Only on occasion, did I have a flyer, most all trimmings dropped pretty much in the bowl area. The aster your drill goes, the farther the chips will fly. Most of those little 4 and 6 volt drills are slow enough you shouldn't have that issue.
One thing to watch is to keep the tool, gauge/cutter straight. Keeping the gauge/cutter straight keeps the cases consistent (tipping the case can make cutting a bit shorter). I only use my Lee and Lyman case trimmers on rifle cases and get consistent case length with a hand drill spinning the case (I started reloading 38 Special in 1969 and have never trimmed case yet. Some cases actually shrink in use. Handgun case length isn't as critical as rifle cases and revolver cases can vary greatly with no problems.).
My Anchor is holding fast!
I don't understand how y'all can get away with not trimming 38 special. Do you not crimp? I put a healthy crimp on them. Back before I trimmed them, sure I could run a bunch without problems, till that one that was long refused to chamber cause the crimp buckled it.
I use the lee trimmers in my mini lathe. The case holder goes in the head stock chuck and the cutter goes in the tail stock chuck. I lube the tip of the cutter depth shaft every 10 or 15 cases to prevent wear. I don't lock the tail stock and just push it to the case. Pull the tail stock back and use inside and outside deburring tool and while the case is still spinning I push a shotgun shell filled with steel wool on the case and all done.
I don't trim pistol rounds as I don't crimp them more than enough to remove the bell.
Crimping in any revolver I own (7) has never had anything to do with chambering. Except bulging from excessive crimp swells the case, making it too large in diameter. I have used some very heavy crimps (Profile, roll and collet), all bullets were crimped in the crimp groove or cannalure but have not had any problems or chambering issues. I know that I have not trimmed any 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 44 Special, 44 magnum or 45 Colt that I can remember from the first 38 Special I pounded out on my Lee Loader in '69. It seems that a few thousandths of an inch variation in length (maybe .010") has little to do with over crimping. In theory, maybe. In theory, possibly. In real life, nope...
Last edited by mdi; 10-22-2020 at 04:30 PM.
My Anchor is holding fast!
About the only problem I have encountered with the Lee system is that the case has tendency to rotate out of the shell holder at times when trimming. Very frustrating. I have had the same thing occur with the Lyman system also
I'm the King of my castle---anytime my wife's not around
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Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
I too don't lube the cutter on the lee trimmer. I probably haven't trimmed more than 3 or 4 thousand cases, but I'm still on the first cutter and it's still cutting well. I do put just a bit of unique case lube on the end of the pin that controls depth to prevent wear.
My last big run with a lee trimmer resulted in brass galling on the shaft that grabbed on the necks while spinning , but I trimmed a lot of brass . Something to keep a eye on .
i made a little gadget for my lee trimmers .found some bottle caps that just fit over the shell holder ,drilled a hole in them to fit body of cartridge case .holds the case in its holder which is a great improvement with 45-70 brass.
I use a battery drill with the Lee case guage/trimmer setup.
Mostly, I've never seen the need to trim straight wall pistol cases...BUT, I have used this trimmer setup to convert 9mm Luger (9x19) to 9mm Mak (9x18).
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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I use a 3M green scotch bright pad the kind for auto body work or now I buy them at Walmart or DG in the pot and pan isle. It’s for cleaning pots and pans in the sink. Works great no polished used. Just the pad and spin the shell .
I'm the King of my castle---anytime my wife's not around
Life NRA member
"A Government big enough to give you everything you want, is big enough to take away everything you have"
Thomas Jefferson
LIFE, LIBERTY, AND THE PURSIUT OF THOSE WHO TREATEN US
I wanna make a desk mounted drill with a foot pedal switch to use with the case holder.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |