Leather holster finish

[Bazoo]

So I make holsters and other leather items. I'm in need of a finish for both my items and factory items that need a refresher.

Here is my criteria

Will not soften the leather
Will be a barrier between leather and brass
Will seal the leather from weather and sweat
Will not rot threads
Easy to make or reasonably to purchase

The most important factor is the first two. If it seals okay but needs application occationally that's okay.

I have beeswax to use as a base.

I've used neutral kiwi shoe polish in the past and sno-proof. Both seamed to soften the leather some. Shoe polish being the least softening.

Ideas and suggestions welcome.

[cwtebay]

Renaissance wax. Sno Seal and the like will rot your leather - or at least the interface where it's sewn. I use Oberhauffs on my daily work boots and holster which works great, but it tarnishes at brass eyelets.

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[elmacgyver0]

After I get done tooling I lace or stitch then I stain and finish up with Neat Lac from Tandy Leather products.

[Springfield]

I just use Tan-Cote. It seals OK, doesn't soften the leather at all, and it leaves a less shiny finish which I like. I tried many, many products on my leather motorcycle seats over the years and nothing completely waterproofs nor lasts more than a couple of months, not if you leave you bike outside. At least that has been my experience.

[5Shot]

Resolene from Fiebings. It is an acrylic finish that you can brush on or dip. When I used it I cut it 50/50 with water so it wasn't so thick. If you leave it at 100% you can get runs like you do with spray paint. You can rub it off with a cloth after the application to cut down on the shine. You can still oil the leather, before and after, just make sure the oil is dry before you apply. It will stiffen the leather, but I have never really found this to be a problem for most things. There are other good products that are similar, but you have to order them, where you can find Resolene just about anywhere that carries leather.

[Bazoo]

I appreciate the suggestions. There isn't a leather shop here. Closest one is in Louisville, and I ain't going up there with all the riots. Don't get up there much without the riots.

I have a belt slide for 30-30. I'm thinking on melting beeswax, and brushing it in the loops then wiping the excess off, to prevent verdigris.

[Shopdog]

I spray Resolene,straight,no reducer. Buy it off fleabay.

Sprays fine out of a 1.6 tip. Just easier for me than dipping or wiping,they are the more traditional methods though for sure.

[GregLaROCHE]

The hardest thing you want to do is keep brass from reacting with leather. I’ve never found anything that worked long term. For example being able to store bullets in a holster for months on end. Best to remove bullets or consider nickel plated cases. If it’s rivets etc you’re worried about, see if you can find them in another material. The acidic products used in tanning are always going to attack the zinc in brass.

[Castaway]

Not sure any effective barrier to verdigris could be applied to the suede side of the leather. I’ve used Kiwi and Renaissance wax. Not sure if one is better than the other as they both benefit from periodic text applications.

[curiousgeorge]

Bazoo- wasn't there a leather shop in E-town on the left going from the red light off the square out to the Cracker Barrel?

Might find something there if it's still in business.

[Bazoo]

Probably the shoe shop you're thinking of. It is a cafe now.

[curioushooter]

Bazoo, as you know I do leather too.

Personally I like SnoSeal and its beeswax base. Cwtebay says that it rots stitching and leather. I say complete rubbish. I have boots from highschool that have been carefully SnoSealed every year and they are fine. If it wont rot good thread in 20 years then it probably wont ever. Thread rotting is going to happen inevitably with ANY natural fiber, and flax/linen thread was the standard in leatherworking until better bonded nylon and polyester threads where invented. I've resewn many rotten stitches and even dry ones will eventually rot due to humidity. BEESWAX and products like SnoSeal if anything prevent this. Neatsfoot oil and all animal/plant oils are in fact FATTY ACIDS which will lower the pH of the material they interface with and therefore degrade anything vulnerable to acid (basically everything but certain plastics). Beeswax prevents this interfacing and that is why waxed thread whether synthetic or natural should be used. Beeswax is an WAX-ESTER and basically doesn't change the pH much if at all. Honey is rather acidic and Beeswax holds it back. Don't blame Snoseal for linen thread and cheap tanning chemicals used to make leather goods in the past.

You can make homemade SnoSeal. Boy I've tried. And always had an inferior outcome. So I buy it from Atsko directly in quarts. Every other shoe polish I've tried has not even APPROACHED its degree of weather-proofing and temperature stablity. Unless its over 100 degrees it stays dry feeling and doesn't soak very deeply into leathers. It is the best finish and restorative agent I know of for any rugged outdoor leathergood like a holster or pouch or boot. I've never messed with saddles, so I don't know about them.

I find the best way to apply is to warm the leather item over a woodstove or in a warm oven or with a heat gun to about 115-120 degrees and apply ROOM TEMP SnoSeal. This helps it penetrate into the leather and seems to get a glossier finish.

Whatever you do DON'T put some Mink oil or other trash from a dime store can on it.

[loveruger]

I use a product called nor-v-gen been using for years on boots and holsters. Made in St Peter Minnesota. I use the paste.

[curioushooter]

Just so you know loveruger it says right on the bottle of Nor-V-Gen: "Rub in to Soften Leather." It is also marketed as an oil, not a wax. Generally oils soften and Bazoo said he didn't want that.

[oconeedan]

This may or may not be what you are looking for, you will have to try it to see. What I use for my knife sheaths is : 1 part bees wax, 1 part neats foot oil, 1 part pine pitch. Use a thrift store crock pot, you will need a wide one for holsters. Put all in crock pot, set it on high, and let it get smoking hot. Use a metal wire or coat hanger to dunk the sheath in the hot mix. It will sizzle for a few seconds, the mix is totally penetrating the leather. Pull out after a few seconds, and dry and wipe clean with paper towels. Let it cool completely, then you can buff with buffer.
This will darken leather a dark brown. Treat it for life. And smell kind of good.
Notes...leather must be completely dry after tooling before this, and anything less than very hot will leave it greasy feeling. Get it hot enough it wipes and buffs nicely.
Dan

[loveruger]

I have used it for along time. All my holsters still hold their shape. I use the paste.