Weet Method

[csitas]

I've been making round balls for 40 plus years . But, recently I accquired a new demand for them. I've gotten an air rifle . A 50 caliber air rifle. I'm not happy with the as cast balls I have been shooting. My mold is Lee , at .495. I would like to go up to about a .498. My question is , do you think my wanting to open a .495 mold by the weet method will work? I don't mind loosing a mold if I screw up but, I know there are those here that could predict my chances, and I really respect that . Thanks ahead for any and all comments. Thank you Chuck.

[rancher1913]

dont know about the weet method but you got to post some photos of this 50 cal airgun and tell us about it

[csitas]

Sorry I can't help with the pic. I'm challenged that way. It's a 50 cal. Dragon Claw. Korean made. Has plenty of power. It'll shoot clean through a 2x4 at forty yards, and you don't even see the board wiggle.50 yds. and closer would be a dead deer in my book. It can be hand pumped but, it's a undertaking.At 3000psi. A pcp compressor is a better route.I haven't tried it at 100 yds yet but will. It'll shoot slugs also. I'm a make it myself kind .To go the slug route I'd have to get molds and a sizer. I have the ball molds from bp shooting. Trouble is this rig don't use a patch so I'm caught in a hard spot . The only way to experiment is to stretch the ball.

[Teemu]

dont know about the weet method but you got to post some photos of this 50 cal airgun and tell us about it

How about a 20mm Airgun?

csitas: Is that Dragon Claw like old model... 4-5 years? Because my friend has same gun and it shoots very accurately .500 ball. If is it after that don't know exact measurements
That 20mm Airgun...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhspIvKxSiY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9e5w4lqw1c0

[csitas]

My model is new. I've been reading about you guys and a fellow named Marco comes to mind. I just want to hunt deer and I like making my my own stuff. .495 is not good enough.

[country gent]

For what you want I would dedicate a lee mould to it and lap it up to size. Its not hard to do and the mould will always be the same after every time you use it.
Tools you will need:
T type tap handle
1/8" key stock
Drill sized to corner to corner measurement of the key stock.

Consumables:
lapping compound 400-600 grit
JBweld epoxy
light oil
Lead ( once the laps are impregnated you dont want to remelt them )

Procedure:
Cast up some fairly good balls these dont have to be perfect.
Use the mould to hold and drill a blind hole into them, do not break thru the far side.
Glue a piece of 1/8" X 1 1/2"into each. Make 3 or so to start.
A small dab of compound on your finger and rub evenly in ball then roll between 2 steel plates with light pressure working to impregnate the compound around the ball.
Lightly insert into cavity gently close the mould. a light drop of oil on the lap
Attach the tap handle to the stem and with a tapping type motion make 3-4 back and forth rotations rotate about 3/8 rotation. Rotate 3/8 turn and repeat thru 2-3 rotations. In each cavity.
Cast some balls and measure for size. repeat above until your to size desired.
Your last passes with flitz or toothpaste will give a very nice finish.

When lapping internally .001 removed is .002 on size so work slow and carefully.
Done correctly you end up with a truly round dia and right to size. If you want you van open a .001 at a time and cast some and test to see improvement before going more.

Thought Id give another option for you to consider

After the first time thru you have an idea of the amount of removal and what to expect. clover compound comes in oint or quart cans, I believe brownells sell repackaged in smaller amounts, or there is diamond lap comes in 1/2 ounce tubes for around 15.00 ( you dont really need diamond here but the smaller amount and finish is a plus)

[Burnt Fingers]

I think you're going to have a hard time coming up with a round ball using this method.

[csitas]

Sounds good country gent, thank you for your comments and time. I'm off to get started. Use old boys have nothing better to do than kill time , before it kills you. Thanks again sir.

[csitas]

Hello Country Gent, Just an update hear. I started with a .495 lee mold. Gun would shoot into about 4" all day at fifty yards, not any where good enough. I started "grinding " like you said . Grind and test , back and forth. I could see it improving right along. I ended up about .495 and about a 1" 3 shot group at 50yds. Mine gun only holds enough air for three shots and , besides the show better be over before that comes. Thank you so much for thee help. Oh by the way ,I don't know if my ball ended up round or not. The way it's grouping I wouldn't care anyway. Only drawback is it does take time. Thanks again, Chuck

[Conditor22]

You could try powdercoating the balls to get them larger

[country gent]

Csitas, You are welcome. Im glad to have helped you out. You may be surprised how round they are, but if you orient the sprue when loading it wont matter near as much.

You are right it is a slow process but when done the mould is always what you want. And chances are the new cavities finish is improved some also

[csitas]

Country gent, The finish I ended up with was better than when I started. When I opened the mold, just a slight shake and the balls would drop. When I started you had to tap a good one after the sprue cut. This way , I think the sprue cut almost was enough to jar them loose. At any rate my groups now would make you smile in comparison. Thanks again Chuck

[csitas]

Conditor 22, I had a 303 British rifle that was key holing. I ended up with a copper jacketed bullet with 4 different coats of powder as a experiment They ended up about .313. The gun shot perfect after that. Come to find out from some 303 "nuts" that towards the end of the war they needed these guns fast and alot of them came out of manufacture why out of spec. Thing is the coating saved me a bundle trying figure out the right bullet. Worked a treat. Chuck