My 22 Rifles at the Range

[303Guy]

Thanks for the thumbs up. I will give that a try. I'm new to 22 target shooting as you can tell. I just used to load up and shoot. My 512 did just fine and was pretty accurate with the HV ammo I was feeding it.

Here's a crown that needs touching. The one on the right.



And one that has been touched. There seemed to be crown damage going in a bit hence the deep crown. I actually thought I was going to need to counter-bore it but in my assessment this looks OK.



This is the before.

[303Guy]

BAW, your photo has only now become visible to me! Beautiful rifle.

[samari46]

I've a 12/15 Martini and another made up on a Canadian takedown. Except it's not a takedown any more. Barrel permanently screwed in and the takedown screw cut in half to plug the two holes in the receiver. Extractor was machined to fit the lower half of the breechface. Except does not hit the extractor to pop out the empty shell. I managed to get a Martini finger/cocking lever from England some years back. Has the shape of the one on the big internationals. Normally these have to be fitted due to manufacturing tolerances which was my biggest worry. Usually the horns have to be adjusted in or out to raise or lower the firing pin strike. So put it in the rifle,grabbed a box of old momkey ward ammo and out back of the house. Subsequent testing/firing shows the indent for the firing pin just where it should be. The loud Yahoo heard inside the house woke up my pit bull terrier who had been sleeping. Not have to drill and tap the bottom leg of the extractor and install a small bolt for the breech block to hit and eject the fired case. Those Martini Internationals must be like rocking horse droppings. In all my years of messing around with firearms. I've only seen two in the flesh and only one guy who actually shot them. Frank

[Artful]

Due to fire danger no shooting in the desert for me, but I can do indoors but only to 60 feet.
I have a Steven's from 1937 but I can't see the peeps so have mounted a scope above the rear sight. And the wife got herself a Tippmann M4-22 which once I found the right ammo (Aguila rifle match) will make clover leafs for her.

[303Guy]

I adjusted the rear sight on my 511 so hopefully that will bring the POI in line with POA. Having a closer look I could see that it was slightly canted. I'll take a screw driver to the range for final adjustments.

I stuck a pin hole sticker label on my reading glasses and gave the sighting a look and that brings the rear sight, front sight and target into focus but the target wasn't very clear. Poor light, poorly defined target and pin hole too small but it's promising.

[OS OK]

Funny how you catch yourself talking to yourself in these exercises...

I've been taking 20 to 40 rounds out each morning and going after that series of less than 1" target groups.
Yesterday got a 7/8" group on the 'warmers' of all things (the first 5) & thought I was going to stack'em tight on the 3 targets,
couldn't do it though...get 3 cutting red and let the other 2 shots fall out the bottom.

Since I'm a leftie, I come up off the cheek weld to load each shot, I have to learn some kind of perfection in my approach to making that weld as the slightest difference shot to shot changes the POI just a wee-bit.

[barrabruce]

I clean mine with a bit of Ed’s red on a patch to get the carbon out. Nothing elaborate.
I do how ever use my secret wonder do-all lube on a patch before shooting.
I don’t like to rub lead on clean dry steel.

I have wondered if double apertures would be good for hunting.
Just concentrate on the top of their ears for example and things would just all line up.

OS hammer in a nail and cut it off.
That way you will end up with a bleeding cheek but you will know if it is in the same place thou.
Something like that.
Ha

[OS OK]

[QUOTE=OS hammer in a nail and cut it off.
That way you will end up with a bleeding cheek but you will know if it is in the same place thou.
Something like that.
Ha[/QUOTE]

Hahaa . . . funny you should mention that, before I lengthened my stock with a couple layers of an old cutting board, I used a .38S case to do just what you suggest but without the blood.
It worked perfectly to index my eye from the rear peep shot after shot...now that the stock is long enough I have taken it off.

[303Guy]

Since I'm a leftie, I come up off the cheek weld to load each shot, I have to learn some kind of perfection in my approach to making that weld as the slightest difference shot to shot changes the POI just a wee-bit.

Hah! That's something I need to look at. I sometimes catch myself pressing down on the stock. Now the action isn't bedded - yet. There is only one mounting screw and it's at the front end of the action body so because there was movement, I placed some tape under the barrel on the fore-end. It's firm in the stock but it means that any change in hold is going to have an effect.

I was looking at my 512 which has been a pretty accurate rifle and discovered an extra action mounting screw under the trigger guard. I have only a vague recollection of putting it in and no idea how I did it but looking at the 511, there is a large hole in the center of the action into which a mounting screw could be fitted but not much place on the stock. Maybe I'll scratch that idea and simply bed the action under the barrel in front of the action so as to move the bedding more or less symmetrical around the mounting screw.

I have this accurate No4 303 that had a loose fore-end. I found it very sensitive to hold so I placed a thick piece of cloth under the knox form and that made it less sensitive to hold. So something along those lines for the 22 but should I free float the barrel? My 512 is free floated but it has a suppressor that weights the muzzle, not that it's a heavy suppressor.

[303Guy]

I love range sessions with my BSA Model 12, 12/15 and international Mk2 target rifles. Very therapudic!

I asked earlier what made the martini so accurate. Now looking at the photo of it, I notice that the fore-end is 'welded' to the barrel but free of the action and butt stock. Would that not make it less sensitive to hold? I also see it has a heavy barrel and that action is as solid as a chunk of steel. No vibration nodes could possibly develop in it.

[303Guy]

I've now bedded the action and made a tube attachment for the front sight. It seems to keep the front sight in focus and the rear V notch reasonable in focus. We'll see how well it does or doesn't work next Sunday at the range. It's rather thick walled so as to put the front blade tip central and to keep the ID small enough to actually function as intended. I didn't have any more material to make different ID tubes to try. I suppose I should have just made it with a larger ID and a set of inserts. Now I think of it!


Rifle in one hand and camera in the other

[OS OK]

Very nice work, it looks like it should present a good profile, maybe smoke it or paint it if it shows any glare.

Just for testing sake...you could carefully cut some narrow strips of something like that black duct tape to increase the profile of that post, they should stay stuck long enough to get a feel for what you want.
That post there looks like you could draw a fine bead with it.

[303Guy]

It's finer than the original. It's the original filed thinner - how I got it. One day I'll do a better job on it but it's OK for now.

Trouble is, I've now made two changes so I won't know which makes it better or worse. But strictly speaking, the bedding only changes as far as the barrel is now free floating. To reverse it, I only need to put a packer between fore-end and barrel which it had before. The rear of the action could move which it now can't so that can only be an improvement or it might do nothing.



See the shiny area where it was moving? It's worn the bluing off.

[OS OK]

Having that barrel off the stock and the action bedded is going to make it shoot like a different rifle.

[303Guy]

This got me thinking, my Voere was disappointing at the range.



Could bedding be the problem? Apparently so.

The mechanism block was loose!



It also bedded on the barrel in two places.



So I've bedded it on the rear of the mechanism block and on the barrel just forward of the single mounting screw. The fore-end is now clear.



I also took off that sling. I don't know why I left it on. I never use a sling and it's been a pain in the butt forever. But now it's gone.

Next Sunday will tell whether there is any improvement.

[303Guy]

In the process, I discovered that the trigger pull has two options so I changed it.




We'll see whether that helps. The pull is now 'softer' but has more creep. I just hope my release agent works otherwise the action will be glued in and I won't be able to put the trigger back. Well, I will but it will take a hair dryer and some effort to release the action.

[Forrest r]

I typically use a piece of rubber/innertube and put it up under the bbl at the front of the stock and tighten the action screws down. After doing this I shoot groups and compare them to groups shot without the rubber under the bbl. If the groups tighten up with the rubber, this is telling you that you either need to bed that rifle of the bedding of the rifle isn't good enough.

[303Guy]

Thanks, I'll try that.

[303Guy]

Getting my 510 ready for Sunday. The foresight blade was broken and the seller had fitted a taller rear sight, so I had to come up with something quick and simple for Sunday.

It needed to be taller than original.



Done. Hopefully the height is within the adjustable range of the rear sight.

[Forrest r]

Interesting way of doing that. Myself I would of flattened and then drilled and tapped for a set screw. They sell different length's of set screws and not only are they adjustable, you can use different lengths/height set screws for different ammo. IE 1 sight for subsonic (+/- 1050fps) and another set screw for hv (+/- 1200fps) and then fine tune them up and down with small turns. Using screw-in/adjustable front sights are nothing new. We used to establish a reload to use in the cmp ar's & then zero the back sight down to 6 clicks above bottom and then adjust the front sight to be dead on @ 200yds.

20" x (2"/900) ='s .044"

20" ='s the distance between the front and rear sight (you need to measure your 510 to get the correct distance)
2" ='s the amount off target/off aiming point (actual #'s are found thru testing different ammo's)
900 ='s the distance in inches to the target (900" ='s 25yds)

Decades ago target grade mauser 22lr used different front sight heights along with an adjustable rear sight. When mas came out with their trainer (mauser) they had a set of front sights to go with them that ranged from 0 to 30. A un-issued mas 45 (top) next to a mauser es340b 22lr target rifle (bottom).
[IMG][/IMG]

The mas 45 has a rear peep sight mounted just in front of the bolt. The mauser has a leaf sight mounted several inches down from the bolt on the bbl.

The tall #15 sight is for the mas 45 & the shorter #15 is for the mauser. They both are designed for +/- 1200fps ammo the difference is the rear sight distances from the front sight & the starting rear sight height.