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Thread: Stiff mold handles....any remedies?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Stiff mold handles....any remedies?

    Hi guys,

    I spent the morning casting 311041s and 31141s. Mine both weight out the same as expected. The 311041 DC has a Lyman mold handle set that is real stiff to open/close. My SC 31141 will just fall open/closed.

    Is there any way to loosen up the Lyman mold handle hinge? I've tried soaking in penetrating oil but it hasn't helped.

    redhawk
    Last edited by redhawk0; 10-09-2020 at 01:50 PM.

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Just loosen the hinge nut on the handles. You will need 2 wrenches
    Regards
    John

  3. #3
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    There are no nuts. It looks like a peened rivet. Smooth dome on both sides.

    redhawk
    Last edited by redhawk0; 10-09-2020 at 03:17 PM.

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Support them on a solid surface and tap the riveted end starting light and going to slightly heavier blows till they are where you want them. Best to remove mould blocks before doing this. This will loosen the force of the peened over rivet, If its the shaft thats tight in the bore then it will need to wear in

  5. #5
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Support them on a solid surface and tap the riveted end starting light and going to slightly heavier blows till they are where you want them. Best to remove mould blocks before doing this. This will loosen the force of the peened over rivet, If its the shaft thats tight in the bore then it will need to wear in
    Thanx....I'll give it a try. I don't think it's a break-in issue...I bought these used on our S&S forum a while back. I've just never gotten to use them until today. Maybe...that's why they were up for sale...haha.

    And so I have this straight....I'm to tap on the riveted side...not on the peened side?

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Tao on the formed head theres a chance its a little softer and may have a smaller bearing surface against the handles, The solid head should show machining marks yet the riveted wont

  7. #7
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    OK...got it.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  8. #8
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    country gent...you live up to your handle. I put the rivet head side over a socket. Then a few taps on the peened side until it loosened up. I was surprised at how hard I had to hit it. That rivet is pretty hard.

    I'm all set...thank you again.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    You are welcome Redhawk. Glad to be of help.
    There is a lot of surface there to "move" . I really didnt want to tell you to really wail on it and have it get to loose. They arnt all that hard but they are tough. If I remember that head and formed end are 1/4" thick and around 3/4" in dia you moved a lot of metal .001- .002 there with that hammer LOL.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    You are welcome Redhawk. Glad to be of help.
    There is a lot of surface there to "move" . I really didnt want to tell you to really wail on it and have it get to loose. They arnt all that hard but they are tough. If I remember that head and formed end are 1/4" thick and around 3/4" in dia you moved a lot of metal .001- .002 there with that hammer LOL.
    Yeah...you're right about the dimensions. I used a 2.5lb hammer too. I didn't really wail on it...but it was a pretty good blow to move it. They are nice and smooth now with little effort to open/close.

    again....appreciated.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Filed away for future reference. Just the kind of practical tip that makes a forum like this worth browsing.

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    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    Filed away for future reference. Just the kind of practical tip that makes a forum like this worth browsing.
    ^^^^^^^yep, good stuff to be found here.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  13. #13
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    When all else fails, BFH

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check