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Thread: Recommendations Needed for a Lead Smelting Setup

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Recommendations Needed for a Lead Smelting Setup

    TOTAL newb here. I went to a one day workshop on casting and caught the bug...

    I now currently have about 25 gallons of range scrap and access to basically as much more as I want.
    So it is time to put together an operation to melt it down and make some ingots! I can't wait

    I want the setup to be relatively efficient on propane and I want to do big batches at a time.

    So what do you all recommend for a burner and and a pot?
    Links or pictures would be helpful

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    If it were my project I would get a water heater, cut it in half the long way, figure out a heat source, and mount it on a slope so I could collect molten lead from the low end, either with a valve or a dipper.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Too much too soon. Turkey fryer for burner. Flashing for heat/wind shield around a cut in half propane bottle. Large ladle and aluminum, cast iron or ceramic muffin pans to begin. Close to 150lb per batch.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Grmps' propane pot is inspiring. I bought a cheap turkey fryer stand at Menards and HF cast iron dutch oven for smelting. Buy or build a sturdier stand, just for confidence's sake. Especially if you're planning on doing anything in bulk. Plan for any catastrophic failure you can think of. It's safe if you make it safe.

    If you're doing a marathon of melting you might want to set up two burners, two pots, do things in rotation?

    Consider gloves, an apron, materials your clothes are made of..

    Also check out the ingot molds pictured above. They're amazing space savers.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Bad Ass Wallace's Avatar
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    I bought a 3qt cast iron pot and a high pressure propane burner. The pot holds 70lb of alloy and melts this in 12-15mins, it holds the temp very well. In fact I can use up to seven moulds at once.



    Can cast up to 6 moulds at a time



    For temperature control, I use a strip of target paper, dip it in and straight out; if it turns a light tan the mix is perfect; if it burns it is too hot.
    Last edited by Bad Ass Wallace; 10-08-2020 at 07:10 AM.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    go to good will for your ingot (muffin) pans ( i got a cast iron corn bread pan where the molds are corn cobs), just thought it was cool, cast iron Dutch oven (i got lid for it to hold in heat, but leave it slightly open), long metal ladle, spoon, and i found a metal pasta scoop that works great for getting debris out..... everything for $20..... had a turkey fryer from Bass pro when it was the in thing to fry turkey, i can "only" do 50 lbs. at a time but takes about 20 min per batch to melt, and i got 4 batches from a 3/4 full BBQ tank so far.... think i can get at least one more so say 6 batches or 300lbs per tank of LP.

    also i do wheel weights range scrap may melt different.

    by the way how did you get permission to scrounge a shooting range? all the ones i asked said NO!!!

  8. #8
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I'd do a lot of reading here.
    There are several threads on the subject, with pictures of all sorts of sets ups, at all skill levels, and volumes.

    I don't do more than 25-30 pounds in a pot at a time.
    If I get done too soon, I'll have to go do some real work. So I tend to stretch out my melting/casting sessions.
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    I converted a Weber grill I got on the side of the road. Here is a link.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...elting-Station
    I try and keep things as simple as possible so my brain doesn't get overloaded

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks all! Great info. so far. Covid has really put a dent in yard sales this fall, so I am thinking I will hit up some thrift stores soon.
    Any preference of cast iron over steel pots? I really like the propane tank design (and cheap too!), but I don't have welding skills or equip.. Maybe I'll have to start asking around.

    And where do you get these moulds? They look perfect:
    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I'd go with the turkey fryer heat source also. But be aware there are 2 main types.

    There is a ring burner which is like an oversized gas kitchen stove burner.
    And then there is a jet burner type. Which IMO is capable of higher and faster temps for faster melting.

    If you want mega fast look for a dual jet. 240,000 ish btus vs 120000
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    There used to be a member here that made pots from propane tanks. I would have gotten one if I didn't already have a pot that I had a welder make from 12" diameter steel pipe(3/8" wall & bottom). Extends the melt time just heating up the pot. Once there it stays hot.

    I've got a single jet burner(it does sound like a jet) that does the job. The burner is mounted in a 1/2" thick steel plate larger than the pot, sitting on 3 legs. I usually have to place something under the legs to keep them from sinking into the ground since I did my lead clean up in the back yard.

    I recommend that you don't make your pot too deep. It is too hard to get a ladle full in a deep pot. Don't bother to ask me how I know this. Also makes sure you don't overload your pot if using a fish fryer heat source.
    John
    W.TN

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Welcome Aboard!

    You have already gotten several good responses. And you are off to a good start collecting lead. The converted propane tank is a favorite as is the Turkey Fryer burner. If you buy a burner just make sure its a sturdy one. Many others use a Harbor Freight Dutch Oven. If you go that route bring the heat up slowly and avoid banging on it when its hot. Avoid aluminum! The ingot molds that you commented on are made from angle iron. Both the melting pot and the ingot molds require welding. You might gather up all of the material and call around to some of the local welding/machine shops over the winter and find one that will do this for you at a reasonable price.

    Since you attended a workshop you already have a head start that many others don't have. But one thing that I have not seen posted yet is to never add lead to a pot already containing molten lead. If there is any moisture in the added lead you will experience a steam explosion. We refer to that as " The Tinsel Fairy" and is to be avoided. You may get away with it for years but it will eventually happen. Also, pre-heat any tools that you dip into the lead for the first time. Moisture can form on spoons and ladles.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The frier stand is a good start and can be improved with some 1/4" X 1" flat stock to strengthen stiffen it up. Remember you arnt going to have 50-60lbs at 500* but 150-300lbs at 750-800* So the stand may need some help. If you have access to wood or coal that can also be used as a heat source. It all depends on what you want and how you build the stand smelter. I prefer the steel pots over cast iron simply because cast iron needs a slow warm up to temp or it may crack. Ive had one dutch oven do this after 4 years of use. I started the burner at full go right of on a cool day and just as the lead was melting good heard a tink and had lead running on the floor. Cast Iron dosnt expand as well as steel. I use a cut off propane tank or casting and smelting. Out of date ones are usually free and make a very nice pot; Be sure to flush clean them out very good before cutting and cut so no sparks. I use a hack saw by hand. Depending on where you cut it the pot can hold between 150-350 lbs. Also when making your pot make a 3-4" wide ring fir the bottom to give a full dia foot for the pot and wind shield. As to the wind shield around the stand pot a simple c shape of stacked footer blocks makes a big difference in holding heat.

  15. #15
    Boolit Mold
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    Thank you! I am now on the hunt for some propane tanks. Large cast iron pots seem a bit pricey anyway.
    I am thinking I would want a lid though. Any of you figure out a decent lid for your propane tank pots?

    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    The frier stand is a good start and can be improved with some 1/4" X 1" flat stock to strengthen stiffen it up. Remember you arnt going to have 50-60lbs at 500* but 150-300lbs at 750-800* So the stand may need some help. If you have access to wood or coal that can also be used as a heat source. It all depends on what you want and how you build the stand smelter. I prefer the steel pots over cast iron simply because cast iron needs a slow warm up to temp or it may crack. Ive had one dutch oven do this after 4 years of use. I started the burner at full go right of on a cool day and just as the lead was melting good heard a tink and had lead running on the floor. Cast Iron dosnt expand as well as steel. I use a cut off propane tank or casting and smelting. Out of date ones are usually free and make a very nice pot; Be sure to flush clean them out very good before cutting and cut so no sparks. I use a hack saw by hand. Depending on where you cut it the pot can hold between 150-350 lbs. Also when making your pot make a 3-4" wide ring fir the bottom to give a full dia foot for the pot and wind shield. As to the wind shield around the stand pot a simple c shape of stacked footer blocks makes a big difference in holding heat.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Mango....I don't weld either...but I did make a setup with a propane tank. It just needs some sheet metal around the burner for a wind break.

    You can load up to 150# in it....I limit mine to 80# anymore...its safer. And...that's a old Silverado Rotor that I use as a lid.

    redhawk

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  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Save the top you cut off and use a piece of sheet metal around it. A piece of 3/4" pipe in where the valve goes for a handle

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MangoBango View Post
    Thank you! I am now on the hunt for some propane tanks. Large cast iron pots seem a bit pricey anyway.
    I am thinking I would want a lid though. Any of you figure out a decent lid for your propane tank pots?
    Go to a local place that refills propane tanks. A lot of times people come in with older tanks that cannot be refilled. My old place charged $5 for them to leave an old tank as a disposal fee. I asked about one telling them I was going to cut it and they offered for free as many as I wanted. They got their $5 and I was doing them a favor. Can even take an empty and swap it for a filled one at those refill cage places - so I have heard. Good luck.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    Use a cut-off propane tank and a turkey fryer base my buddy made. Base was overbuilt and he could stand on it without issue and went about 200#. Tank was from a place that exchanges tanks and was the older style, got it free for the asking. Removed valve and let set full of water overnight and then dumped and cut just above the weld with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder. Not sure where he got the burner from so no idea as to BTU output but with 60-80# of range scrap melts in about 20 minutes with burner set high. When molten cut back on the heat and skim/flux. The pot could do bigger batches but only do enough to fill my muffin tin ingot molds.

    Get heavy duty ladles and skimmers, kitchen utensils designed to ladle a cup gravy were not designed and built to handle a cup of lead.

    GOOD POINT about not adding scrap to molten metal, surprising how much moisture remains even after several weeks in buckets of scrap.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich/WIS View Post
    GOOD POINT about not adding scrap to molten metal, surprising how much moisture remains even after several weeks in buckets of scrap.
    That's the truth. I like the old Brake rotor since it has a relatively small diameter hole in the middle. It reduces the amount that the tinsel fairy can throw back a you. I've had humidity on a ladle cause lead spatter after submerging. Don't ever pick up a bucket of material and just dump it in a liquid pot. You're asking for trouble.

    redhawk

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