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Thread: Making your own loading block

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


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    Sep 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Froogal View Post
    Drill holes in a length of 1x6. Drill all the way through, and then glue a thin piece of plywood on one side. No special equipment or tools needed.
    You beat me to it!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    Jun 2016
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    I made several out of cut offs I had from oak stair treads. Forstner bit & drill press. I also made me a box for my shell holders same way. I have some plexi glass 1.5” thick was going to use it but I don’t know if it would ruin my bit. I had been to cheap to by Forstner bits and got a set dirt cheap because wooden box with plastic front was busted. Porter Cable brand. Always made do with paddle bits before.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Sure anyone can make'em. Just depends on your time, skill with tools, and how handy and tool stocked your cabinet is.
    Of course one can buy specialty blocks for those unusual caliber requirements too.















  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy HotGuns's Avatar
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    May 2005
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    I made one for 45-70. Of course, having a mill with a digital readout makes it nice and quick.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    07/02 FFL
    Maker of fun things to shoot...
    http://bobbailey1959.wordpress.com/

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Shopdog's Avatar
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    Oct 2017
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    These aren't case holders,one is for top punches,and the other for 7/8 accessories... but it's the same process.Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Jun 2012
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    760
    Drilled 17 rows of 3 across in a 2x4 =51 holes using pc of scrap for a splinter guard at the bottom.
    Then I turned the 2x4 on edge and sawed it in half.
    I glued a pc of plywood 1/4 inch on bottom of each board.
    I sanded the two boards and varnished them fifty years ago.
    The holes were drilled with a 1/2 inch spade bit for .45 cases.
    Since then, I have used them for everything from .45 down to .25 since the holes are so shallow.
    Best thing i ever did.
    As for double charges.
    After I get the powder measure zeroed for my charge, I carefully throw all the charges and I check them all with a penlight.
    Usually I purposely throw a double in the last one to see what a double looks like.

    Then I dump the double and throw a single in that one.
    A double is easy to spot when you know what the difference looks like.
    Normally I hold the measure in my left hand and lever out using the right.
    I carry the measure to the cases.
    Works for me!

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I also throw a double charge on the last one sometimes to see it for the check. I don't mention that often because it could cause someone else a catastrophic mistake. I don't work between loading blocks. The only time I use one is when I spray lube rifle cases and when I charge cases. For charging I go from a Tupperware bowl to the measure to the block. Then check them with a light.

    I occasionally load without a block too. Especially if I'm using a dipper. I'll charge about ten cases, lining them up on the bench. Then I check the powder and seat bullets.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check